WJM

Its $450 shipped. The front diff works in all 4WD 5MT's from 1985 to 2004.

PG makes a front diff for the autos... The auto diff vs. the 5MT diff is different and will not interchange...so use the PG unit for the autos. For your GL10 the front diff that I am using, will work for any 5MT 4wd you put in there.

OBX=aftermarket. Its a helical instead of a clutch or planetary. Very similar to the Quaife ATB, and nearly idetical to the 05+ STi front diff, but for the 5MT.

My OBX helical front diff is here.....now to install it.

Front diff, water injection kit, 205/50/15 Hooisers (3 sets), lightweight seats, and some gauges are all here. Must find time to put the puzzle together......

Active diffs would be best for offroad with a manual controller. The STi unit takes 2000 lbs of force to break it loose and slip at full lock.

None specific....I ordered an aftermarket unit, the OBX Helical. Its a Helical, a torque biasing worm gear operated diff. Clutch: Has static and dynamic resistance, even with one wheel comepletely unloaded. Best for most types of racing. Planetary/Helical/TQ biasing/ATB-Quaife/SureTrac Cam type: Usually operates only under acceleration, and BOTH wheels must have contact with the surface. Any complete loss of traction on one wheel means the diff doesnt work. These diffs work with the wheel speed differential to create LSD action. These types of diffs are best on smooth-sealed surfaces and street cars....and other applications where clutch types are not highly needed. Viscous: These diffs only work when slip is created. Similar to clutch type, but have almost no initial load. Once slip is created, fluid between the clutch plates heat up, creating the LSD action. These are best used as the center or transfer case diff on AWD cars, also found in many rear diffs....sometimes found in the front of FWD cars, but rarely. These diffs are best for normal street cars that may see adverse conditions. Very quiet and stealthy operation. Active: Most comonly these are planetary/helical units with electromagnetically operated clutch packs that control slip action. These diffs are most expensive and need electronic or other typed of input/information to operate properly. Under normal use, they act as any other planetary or helical diff. As slip is created and conditions change, depending on programming, the clutch packs are activated, limiting the slip (say, if a wheel looses complete traction) therefor keeping maximum grip. These are commonly found in the Version 8 and later SUBARU Impreza WRX-STi with the 6MT, it is the center diff setup. Also found in the Mitsubishi Lancer Version 8.5 and MR version. NOT found on the RS version until 2005, IIRC. Thats it...I think.

XT6 is the same. Well...you might could get something custom machined... Try it. I imagine that the stubs that would need to be used would need to be the ones that came in the diff...aka the ones for the 25 spline EA and all EJ. (Same part number)

Numbchux: They are the same....unless you are refering to the post 11/2003 cars that have stubless diffs, the axles slide INTO the diff. Then there is STILL NO PROBLEM as 99% of the aftermarket diffs out there are for the stubbed diffs. Either way, if you get one thats stubless, order the stubs from an early diff, and insert them. Done. Noah88DL: Use turbo axles. Done.

annnnnnnnd then?

The turbo MT stubs are 25 spline...and OMG!!!!!!!!!!! 95% of all the EJ stuff with stubs (up to the 11/2003 production date, which means the middle of the 04 model year) are 25 spline. Direct fit.

How about JUST the VC from the legacy into the RX transmission????????????????????????????????????????? I'm DYING TO KNOW!

Just swap the ring gear over. As for years for STi 5MTs...I do not know the answer. Some have VLSD, some have Helical, others are rumored to have a clutch type. Any year STi with a 5MT. the 6MT diff will NOT work. I have tried.

its just the front diff its self...the actuall differential. No parts other than the diff its self need to be swapped. You can order aftermarket, or get an OE STi 5spd front LSD from SUBARU-STi.

Fixed for ya.

where's the racism come from? I'm only refering to horribly translated Japanese to English....

Nah, reading the Fuji-Engrish is a GREAT start to every day. Bring great laughter to every visit with service manual.

if chilton did some exact copying of the fuji material.

MAF cleaning FTW. I use the high power brake cleaner stuff...that gets it clean in one short blast.

ummm....can we say copyright infringement?

All EA82 blocks have the threaded hole for the knock sensor. As for the 9.5:1 bottom end from a MPFI/Carb/SPFI: I've ran one hard, on track, at autox, and on street for well over 50k miles with ZERO issues. Period.

R160 FTW. Many different LSD types avalible for it: Kazz, Cusco, PG, and more for clutch type. ATB-Quaife/Torsen/Helical for it as well. SureTrac makes one, but its hard to find. And more. Gearing? everytihng from 3.545 to 4.444 was made with the R160. R180: Maybe 4 LSDs avalible, and only 3.90 ratio could I find.

linky no worky.

*keeps eye on thread*

bolt the heads on and go. Its works fine.