WJM

My head is about to EXPLODE from reading this thread. First, Borla WILL NOT MAKE HEADERS for the EA82. They REQUIRE a demand enough to sell over 300,000 units over the course of 2 years. Are there 300,000 EA82T's on the road? NO. Plus, the borla's will crack and you'd have to take them back off and send them in for warrenty replacement etc etc etc...that takes months. Second, the TWE headers are NOT equal length. My RX still sounds like any other boxer engine with unequal length headers on it...as it has UNEQUAL LENGTH HEADERS ON IT!!!!!!!!! Granted with out ANY pipes on it...its sorta unboxerish...with a PROPER exhaust on it, it sounds like any other turbo boxer. *err...had...has nothing now...but will have EJ25 Borlas on it soon* Third, $299~$310 is the going price for NEW dual port Borlas for subies. The Single ports are near impossible to find and are upwards $400 a set, and crack worse than the duals. Fourth, TWE makes headers already, buy them.

all 4 lines. all hardware for the front. The back you need a slightly shorter banjo bolt, or double washer the back and make sure it doesnt leak. these sets are designed for WRX and all other EJ subies. However, I have used them on EA's perfectly.

Call 1-828-210-3623, ask for Kent (thats his direct line, he should answer it, Monday thru Friday, 8am to 5pm), and ask for the TWR SS line set.

Back when i had my first RX...the 89...pleiades is Steven Rankins, he had an 88...the 88 that JWX has now. Ironically, JWX has the 89 now as well. Basically, Steven got on USMB and I was posting about RX stuff and we lived pretty close to each other, we met up for one day for lunch and a garage wrenching session...he's big into autoxing, there was one comming up...I came and competed...instantly addicted...and so began my SUBARU autoxing 'career'...the rest is history.

Every time I drive...It's an autox.

Thanks. The only power mods will be what I can do in the class...that'll keep the mod $ down and the reliability up. I'll do a reflash on the ECU...header, high flow cat, stock STi resonator pipe and muffler, stock intake from a 97 Outback (makes more TQ) and thats it.

I got 2 sets of slightly used 2004 STi struts for...well, nothing. Simply doing favors and installing parts for freinds got me those. I sold off the stock and aftermarket springs that came with them. Kept the tophats. Bam, there are my shocks. Those shocks are perfectly fine for most anything up to a 450lb spring. 450 is the end of its effectivness tho... Next, the only bushings I have installed are steering rack bushings. A full bushing set for the Legacy is ~$150, plus ~$90 for the offset bushings I'd need for the rear of the front control arm...then ~$50 for the front control arm bushings AT the crossmember from Super pro. So I *would* have ~$320 in bushings and I'd be done. But I've only spent $30 so far for the OUTBACK. Next...wheels. I happen to have a friend who has a WRX who got tires of the look and lack of width of the ADR wheels...he has since purchased a set of Rota Slipstreams in 17X9 for some meaty tires for street use. The ADR's are a little blemished from exteneded track use and minor rashing from foreign objects contacting the wheels at high speeds. I paid $50 for the set with center caps. So far my total is $80. Tires...the 245/35/17s are not listed on tire rack...ODD! However, if you call and ask for them they are avalible. However, I did not pay a dime for them. Boxer4racing.com in conjunction with Continental tire USA decided to see just how good their high performance tire stacked up against the Hankook RS2 Z212, Falken ST215 and ST615, Khumo MX, Yoko Neova...and a few others. In testing...only the hankook was faster and only one run...once they got heat in them, they were slower. Unfortunatly, no Neova's were avalible...so we didnt get to test those...they are VERY stickey. So...we got a sponsorship to compete the rest of the season with the SportContact2's and go to Nationals in Topeka and do our best to win. I dont know how many sets we got...but there were multiple sets of 225s, 235's and 245's in various sidewall heights and compounds. The weapon was a 2000 Impreza 2.5 RS sedan. Steven Rakins and Jon Krolewiz were to run STX, I was to run STS, Tara Knoll STX Ladies, and Jane Rankins STS Ladies. The 2.5 RS is KNOWN to not be competitive nationally in those classes at this time. Steven ended up LEADING day 1, and ended up 4th overall after day 2. Jon was...well, caught out by rain day 1 and over driving the car on day 2. I ended up 25th out of 46 or so in STS...drying conditions on day 1 ment the fastest runs were made by 2nd drivers in the 3rd run group...day 2 I made the wrong tire choice and stayed put. Jane was 4th out of 4 in STSL...Tara on the otherhand ended up 2nd in STXL, beating last years National Champion. Overall, the results were actually good, and Conti got a TON of looks and inquiries over the tires and the HUGE shake up of STX and STXL... After that...it was done. There were tons of tires left. I took two sets of the 245/35's with me. Bam, free tires. Next... Just so happens Steven Rankins autox'd his 98 GT sedan in STS, STX, SM, FSP and Pro classes for many years. It was very competitive locally. In STX i am competing against mainly WRX's...Tara now has the setup from the Nationals RS on her 2000 2.5 RS...so I'm running against her locally. Last sunday's results netted me being 0.057 ahead of her at the end of the day. However, 4 WRXs infront of me still. Not far off tho... The ride is not harsh at all. Its when you get that crazy JIC valving going on that you literally need 5 points to hold you in the seat over slight undulations in the road....

i see the lol there...so its not ment seriously.

I see.... Poser-mobile? Sorry, but it'll blow most anything out of the water in terms of handling when you take the power delivery out of the equation. I've spent a total of $800 on the ENTIRE car...including initial purchase and items that I've replaced to keep it running. I'd say I'm doing pretty good right now...especially seeing as how I've got 3x's that in the RX. Plus the RX has full bushing kit. Thats the next item for the Outback.

I cheat and use the Dealer's Hunter rack. However...I used to use strings like the F1 teams do....then I used vodka and my eyes...that works great too.

I get free tires. So i mostly dont care about what my alignment is as long as the car handles perfectly in my mind. However, any toe in or toe out presents return to center issues during steering inputs...car tracking straight, etc...So i ALWAYS set ZERO toe front and rear. I am NOT a fan of making a toe adjustment to make a car do something...aka toe out rear to make it rotate..toe out front to make turn in better....etc... However, it takes -3.5* camber on the RX to make the BFG's i have hook up and I still wear the outer edges more so than the inside. Same with race tires. They still wear the outer well before the center or inner. However, I am going to add more caster to the RX, i am looking for a total of 6~7 deg caster, and I can run about -2.5 camber...that will aid in braking and accel grip, plus lessen the stright line inner tire wear. As for the Outback...previously I had never done any alighment on the car...toe was 0 front and rear...and 0 camber. The Michelins I had were hard as a rock and it took ~10k miles before they STARTED to show wear at all. Ofcourse, the grip level was zero. Currently, the ContiSportContact2's are already at 2/32'nds for autox. These are the tires that I ran on in STS for nationals (The 225/45/17 version, the STX tires, 245/35/17's are currently on the car) and are SUPER grippy...after all, they are the OE Porsche tire. They need ~-2.5 to -3.0 to work properly with ~+3 to +4 caster. -2.5 and +4 is the best I could get out of the outback with the current camber plates. Its almost perfect. I do need a larger front swaybar to control body roll...possibly a rear as well. As for tire life...each trip to a given destination is a sea of cones. Straightline accel is the LEAST of my concerns. MAXIMUM cornering velocity and braking performance ARE my most important concerns. Every corner is is usually at 7/10ths....which for most people is 20/10ths of their ability and 30/10's of their car's ability. The BFG's are HORRIBLE tires in reality...they have a 400 tread rating and last approx 5k miles in an enviornment inwhich I am cornering alot. I do NOT autox on these tires. I have a set of R-compound tires for that. However, with alot of interstate and city driving...I have seen as much as 10k out of them...and they usually either end up chording the outer edge...or they end up perfectly smooth all the way around. So far with the outback...I have never destroyed a set from wear...I had 3 michelins develop tumors and one come apart on the interstate. The Continental All seasons are still almost new...while the ContiSportsContact2's are still intact with ~4k on them. On top of all that...I do all of my alignments myself, NEVER has anyone else aligned any of my cars.

cracking and EJ heads just doesnt happen. I have 10k HARD HARD HARD miles on the STi gaskets and I've not had a problem.

Yeah, doing all the seals and gaskets would be the smart thing to do while its out and apart. I didnt have hte $...and I'm paying for that now with a leaky engine.

My 96 went 206k before the stockers went. Now its got 216k. I replaced the HGs with the 11044A642's...they are THE STi headgaskets and they hold up to well over 700 Wheel HP. As long as you use the stock headbolt TQ sequence, they will not fail. I did not resurface the heads or block. Total cost of the headgasket replacement was $80 for the HG's and cost of fluids. That was it. So, under $150 for the job. It was WELL worth the time and money spent. Swapping an EJ22E into the outback will NOT be the correct solution. It'll be even more gutless than it is now.

-2.5 camber. I've NEVER had a set of tires last more than 6k miles. I DRIVE...i dont sit in a car and go A to B.

its a 1996 Outback...in 96, they had no scoops. Scoops are t3h gh3y unless its an 04~05 STi scoop. Then it set us up the bomb awesome.

None of that in existance in GA.

So...I got some goodies for the Outback... 17x7 ADR Wheels 245/35/17 ContiSportContact2's for the rubber SuperPro Steering rack bushings 2004 USDM Version 8 STi struts w/coilover collars-springs OLD OLD OLD style MRT-Rally Camber-Caster adjustable camber plates USDM WRX 6 CD changer headunit (ROCKS!!!!!!!!!) And unless specified...its BONE stock otherwise. Its hot. :drool: Aligment specs: Front- -2.5 -2.5 camber +4 +4 caster -0.01 -0.01 toe Rear- -1.5 -1.5 camber -0.01 -0.01 toe Its on RAILS.

The reason for the goinormousness and redness of the next is because the EA82T has been around for over 20 years now...and still people think think the coolant flows backwards then what it really does. The entire purpose for the coolant+oil cooler turbos are the increase turbo life. PLUS...you reach operating temps WAY faster in the engine as well....which is, believe it or not...a GOOD thing. The ONLY reason for oil only turbos are racing or aftermarket where they decide 'nah, not on this one...maybe the next one'... I've installed all kinds of turbos...MOST of the time they are water-oil...rarely do I see oil only these days. Anyhow...after the coolant dumps into the t-stat housing...it all flows out thru the upper rad hose to be cooled by the air. On an EJ...coolant flows out of the head, into the turbo, out of the turbo and into the coolan reservoir tank on the turbo side of the engine. It has 4 ports. One for the rad cap-system pressure overflow....1 small line that feeds directly to the top corner of the radiator....the turbo coolant-outlet-inlet...and on the bottom of the tank, a line that goes back around to the waterpump right at the t-stat just like on an EA82T (well, except for the waterpump part...but still, both outlets end up going back to the t-stat).

i think its 5-0v....

The turbo coolant outlet does not dump into the head. The turbo coolant outlet dumps into the Thermostat housing.

Well, i was on track (road course) for a good 8 hours one weekend running stock boost....water temps never got past stock operating temp....and I never had to use the elec. fans either.... However...I do not have a way to monitor EGT's yet. Seems that 1600*F is the max high peak....and the 1500~1550 range is fine for constant WOT on WRX's and STi's on track.... So....green light for you avatar.... HOWEVER...with these heads being the way they are....i dont think anyone *REALLY* knows what the max safe temp is....

100% Correct.

Not a clue...if the T and n/a heads are the same...I have a set of N/A's.