WJM

The Multi Layer Metal gaskets are offered in .027 to .120 thicknesses. EJ engines are using 3 different thicknesses of gaskets. STi has one WAY thin (i think at .027, but it looks thinner than that), the EJ251/253's are using .027, the EJ25D's are using .045 or so. The EJ20's are at .040 or so... The EA82 is at...what? .047? Closest Cometic offers is .045. That would pass as a 'stock' gasket. Or, use the .051.... OR...should we use the .027? Heres the Q i want to know...does thickness affect the durability of the gasket? I've installed all 3 thicknesses in WRX EJ257 swaps, none have failed...each one made similar power on similar turbos....even the 600+ hp STi I built was on the stock thin STi gaskets. Tomorrow I am going to fax in a custom work order form for the EA82 and get pricing for gaskets. I am about to go serious reliable power on a stock block, and I need a headgasket that isnt going to blow randomly. So far *knock on wood* the stockers have not failed me since I stopped doing stupid stuff to the engines and payed attention to oil/coolant/tuning...but I'm sure that the second I get over 200 to the wheels, its going to blow. What thickness do we want to run? I am open to any of them in this range: .027, .030, .036, .040, .051. Thats the lower range of the thicknesses avalible. They also offer .060, .071, .074 and .120.

Yes, otherwise it would be an EA82T with DOHC and blow head gaskets 'all the time.' the EJ25D's have composite headgaskets...and blow all the time. The updated headgaskets are metal. They dont blow. The EJ207/257/255/251/253/22T/22G/20G/20H/20K all have metal. the EJ18E/EJ22E have composits and still blow as often as an EA82 N/A does....which is not all that often, but it still happens.

EJ20G.... its an EA82T with DOHC, metal headgaskets and an intercooler.

not CAMSHAFT...CAMERA.

My digi-cam died, but others got pics. 120+ miles on the track. Brakes were fine. I ran down 2 WRXs...the rest of the time I was out there by myself mostly. STi's would blow by in the straights...only to have me eat their rear bumper in the next corner. Cooling system was more than fine as well....single core rad, no mech fan and the electrical one stayed off while on the track...never got above the 1/3rd area of the gauge. Intake temps were no higher than 120*F after the Air/Water IC all day long. ZERO oil consumption. And it drove to and from the track with ZERO problems. +3476538746785 for me and the car today. However...I found that road courses are rather...boring...unless you are running someone down...then THAT gets boring after a lap or three.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! *WJM smacks TSJ really hard on the back of the head* IDIOT! /Nepolean

Well, ok then. lol

front LSD not installed yet. JWX went at Roebling for 20 minute sessions at a time...I'll have an unrestricted 2.5 hr block to play in.

OBX makes good stuff. I do not have it installed yet.

http://www.tgprace.com/ First time at a real road course tomorrow for my RX...that'll make TWO RX's on real road courses...that I know of....if someone else knows of more that DIDNT blow up and was on the track for more than 1.5 hours...please speak up. Tomorrow I will get a solid 2.5 hours straight on the track. I currently have the MegaSquirt in the car...AFR's are in the green, and timing is good to go. Its running safe and making decent power right now. Tomorrow will be fun.

Did you guys even READ the thread?????????????????????????? No, it cannot be MADE to take one. ZERO modification nessisary. Direct drop in. You cannot modify the box to 'take' one...you dont have to, it drops right in. Would not change ratio. Yes, you can change ratios. 3.700, 3.900, 4.111, 4.444 are avalible. Yes, you can change front diff ratio, but you better change the rear accordingly. The diffs are the same, there are no 3.700, 3.900, 4.111, 4.444 front diffs. Ring-Pinion set defines ratios.

and then?

Read this thread.

as long as you use all the 2wd stuff with 2wd stuff and 4wd stuff with 4wd stuff...it doesnt matter. 2wd and 4wd input shafts are different splines, clutch discs different diameters, plates and flywheels accordingly.

Tore the front of the engine off...exposed everything...then gave her a fire up so I could stare at everything. Tensioner didnt move a MICRON. The sound, now that the covers are off and I could get in there an listen, is DEFINATLY comming from the head on the #1 cyl. VERY loud from there. NOTHING, not a peep, from the tensioner. So...I'll drive it till it blows and then put that spare I have laying around in it.

i dont think I need 2 alts or batts... I just need a good 85 or 90 amp alt, NEW or reman. The STi's still ahve more drain STOCK than I do now....and they have 90 amp alts.

Time for a REAL bettery and a 120+ amp alt. The Uego dual controller, MegaSquirt, rally lights and all the other stock stuff is really draining the system. Good thing I have 2 spare alts and a battery.

1. AWD/4WD Dyno ONLY for the FT4WDs. YOu can do 2WD with the PART TIME 4WD. 2. 3rd gear, high range. 4th takes too long to pull, and yeilds the same numbers. 3. 6,500 RPM if its a stock internal EA82 (T/C/S)engine. 12,500 if its the F1 engine....21,000 if its a CURRENT F1 engine. 8,500 if its a Spec C/TypeR/TypeRA JDM engine. 7,000 if its a standard EJ205/EJ207/EJ257. 6250 if its a standard EJxxx SOHC N/A engine. 6,500 if its a standard EJxxx DOHC N/A engine. 4. Haul rump roast.

what about my driving? eh?

I used to run in Street Mod, which is any 4 seater car with any drivetrain configuration as long as the engine block is of the same maker. I was mostly up against WRX's STi's 2.5 RS, GSX's BMW M3 Lightweights honda civics...you name it. LOCALLY...I was very dominant. Regionally the car did ok...but was nowhere near fast enough to take it nationally. Now I am running F-Street Prepared. You have to use stock engine and internals, forged pistons are allowed as long as they are EXACT same dimentions as stock. Intake and exhaust manifold and the rest of the exhaust is unrestricted, along with intercoolers as long as they are cooled by the atmosphere only, EMS is unrestricted, boost is now free, diffs are free, suspension is mostly open-n relocated mounting points or adjustable arms, but camber plates and coilovers and bushings/offset bushings are allowed. Lightweight seats, non-stock steering wheels are allowed. Water injection is free, and launch control. Antilag is still fuzzy, as are bypass valves. You can also roll/tire clearance the fenders to show MASSIVE rubber on the car. I'll be up against the early 80's/late 70's VW rabbits and sciroccos for national and regional events. Those things weigh about 1700~1800 lbs. RX is sitting at 2490 right now. Hopefully, with the power, the diffs, suspesnion and tires, car for car I can make up for the weight...driver is 90% there. Locally, I'll be up against honda civics, rabbits, and a whole assortment of other low powered FWD/RWD cars. Any other EJ subaru that is eligible for FSP will NOT be competitive at all(any of the N/A EJ's EXCEPT 2.5 RS). Locally I will dominate again for sure.

Thats very possible. Tonight I'll sit down and look up all the parts I will need for the SOHC 'conversion' as well as some gaskets and other things.

Bah, to each his own. After this mornings events, and events with other EJ cars in the past week, I forsee ZERO EJ's in my future besides the one currenty in my driveway that disabled itself this morning then fixed itself somehow. It's got one last chance to prove itself before I swap an EA82T into it.

So, this morning...after spending yesterday cleaning it out, un freezing froze calipers, and other little things...I start up the Outback at 6am, and pull out of the spot of head off to SoG. Then, wham. Nothing. Engine shuts off for no reason. Try restart...2.5 campression strokes, 1 dead and 1 half dead sounding. Wont refire for anything. CEL comes on. Great, sounds like it jumped timing. I got home this evening, and fired it up just to see if it would run. Started up perfectly and idled like new sans the lifter tick its had since I did the headgaskets. WHAT FREAKIN GIVES!??!?!?!?! BG info: 1996 Legacy Outback Wagon EJ25D 4EAT AWD 208,000 miles. HG job done at 206,000, replaced composit HGs with MLM HGs. NEW timing belt as of HG job. Tensioner was in excellent condition. Thats about it. It's had its normal oil change schedule. For the last 10k miles its been on synthetic.

Someone double posted. Either way, you see if you can tell me the same thing when the EJ's get 20 years old...and if both an EA82 and EJ20G are prepared in the same manner.

In my experience...that EJ20 has to be closed deck(or atleast an EJ207), originally an STi product with forged pistons at least, large radiator, good oil cooler and some good tuning for it to last as long or longer than the EA82. I've seen EJ205's last as long, or less than my EA82 when put to my abuse. There have been several EJ257's that have failed in vastly short amounts of time....they have weak pistons when put under real stress.