WJM

"engine gasket kit" gasket kit gaskets EA82T EA82-T engine gasket stuff kit kits engines gaskets kits.....stuff for EA82T Sorry, jsut for the search engine. good job posting all that.

I dont understand how a stock car is making the power mine is.... his compression numbers were... 1-115 2-115 3-100 4-125 MINE are... 1-145 2-150 3-150 4-150 I dont understand it. Both Kevin's and JWX's other 88 RX (was mine, and was pleiades and then deadbolt before that) dyno'd the same at around 75hp/90tq at the wheels with intakes on them...on dynojets.

With EMS and MLMHG's it should last atleast 20k street miles.

Yeah...but calculated 150hp/170tq at the crank? There's something a-miss... We put a boost guage on it....held 7PSI until it got past 5000...then, as you see the peaks there, it boosted to 10 psi...back to 7...back to 10.....back to 7....by its self. We also changed the timing around...ALOT...from 35 deg to 20...to 10...back to 35. No differences. Those charts will be posted soon.

Anti-

true.....

VF22.

Belts suck less than chains. a lot less loss with a belt.

Ofcourse, his weighs in at 2635 with a 1/2 tank...and mine is 2548 at 1/2 tank. Nevermind....we took the tools and junk out and its actually 2567.

JWX's new toy....a completely bone stock 1988 RX 3 Door. It is like it was delivered off the showroom floor. 100% stock intake system, boost control system, ECU, exhaust....all of it factory stock. Interesting....it was turning the boost up by its self up high...I would have run it out to 8k but JWX didnt want to....it looks like the power band reversed up there. Now, vs Mine, 4 mins after pull #3 of JWX's new toy.... Suffice to say, I am not very happy at this point..... Also, I am now set on the fact that the 1987~1989 ECU's are a ton more advanced than what we think they are......

This is why my future EDIS system will have the crank trigger from the drivers cam instead of the actual crank....and why right now I still use the disty with the MS.... Afterall...somehow majically the MS can make timing fo from 0 deg to 40 deg...with a stock dizzy. But it works.

MR2's read to 160.....Hm.

HAHHAHAHA.... then I wonder why my outback has a 140 mph speedo when the fuel cut is set to 110~112....it still pulls well until that point.

Mine hits 110 easily.....fuel cut at 110 tho. Looking for a way around it....speedo goes to 140, it aint there for show....its there for tell as well...

I have re-opened this topic with ARP.

the ER27 sounds weird...there was one at Nationals with a cat-back on it...sounded kinda like a cross between an SVX and a Porsche.

Wrong. WRX that won STX in 2004-has stone mnt headers and 2.5" TBE w/high flow cat.....sounds just like a honda with headers and a high flow cat. 2.5 RS's sound completely different with the tuned vs stock vs borla vs TWE equal's on them. The RX sounds completely different with the TWE vs stock on it. It IS about header design. Think NASCAR....why do the Talladega/Daytona cars soudn different than when running at Charlotte or Bristol? The headers are different for short-med track vs superspeedway with the restictor plate. MUCH higher pitched and an annoying at the Super Speedways than at the shorter tracks w/out the R-Plates. Mustangs with stock vs shorty vs *incert other header design here* all sound different. It is the header design.

The headers are VERY unequal. That is the one and only reason why they sound like they do. If you install equal length headers, it sounds like a Honda. Has nothing to do with because its a boxer or not a boxer or firing order....its the exhaust system design. IF you took a honda engine, put 1 and 3 with SHORT tubes, and 2-4 on LONG tubes...then it would sound like a stock SUBARU turbo setup or an N/A with a Borla header on it.

its simple... "remove HLA" "install HLA" there are no speical notes....at all. Of all the notes...nothing other than that step when it comes to the HLA removal/installtion for the head assy. Hm.

I'll have to SUBARUnet that one.

This argument is always there...Old School vs New school...and thats what it is...my RX vs everything else EJ. besides that.... GL wagon D/R would be the logical choice for offroader. RX would be good too, but the low range is not as low as the GL's...1.196 for RX and 1.592 for GL. That and you can haul more in the wagon and I would think the wagon would make a much better offroad rig. Honestly, I would save the RX for rally-autox-fun fast car-road race type stuff.....Wagons and sedans and non RX coupes for off road and other stuff.

weird....id didnt have this problem before I took them out. The engine runs perfect....before and after despite the tick. Only reason i did the HG's was due to the leak it developed...something the phase 1's are famous for.

1996 Legacy Outback Wagon...4EAT, 206200 original miles or ALL ORIGINAL stuff....except the normal maint. items.... NEVER had the headgaskets done...finally they crapped out and I replaced them. I removed the HVA's from the head to prevent them from falling out when i was cleaning the head...they went right back where they came from too. The engine, when cold, makes a LOUD-AZZ clacking-tapping sound from the 1-3 side....it goes away when warm at idle, BUT...at anything above 1000 RPM its back. Gets louder and speeds up with engine speed. It has NEVER made this sound before. Oil replaced every 3k~5k miles...the last 10k was on Motul 8100 5w30 synthetic....currently has Mobil 1 driveclean 10w30....going to switch back to motul at the next 2k interval. I am leaning towards the Hydr. Valve Adjusters as the source...yet they never made this noise before...!??!?!? Any ideas?

So does that mean my parts are on the way to me?

Wise choice. You have a PM.