WJM

the center clutch pack duty solenoid needs to be replaced. Thats about a $80~$100 peice...and the labor on that is about 3~4 hours i think.

something like that....but normally it knows to ignore those misfires, as the ECU picks up on it.

No. I already did. Those last runs posted are it. Pay attention to the captions for the runs. I think I'll see about putting the wideband into the header next time....I had a wideband at the tail pipe. Its proven to be 100% accurate on all the other cars we dyno and tune.

Correct. AFs stayed the same during that drop. yeah, after the new knock sensor was installed, its running a TON better under 1/3-1/2-2/3 throttle conditions. However, as far as I am aware of, this tihng is completely stock. WJM

No. The air/fuel is dependent upon how much fuel is delivered. It has very little to do with where the timing is at.

Bring it up to Top Speed and I'll give a quick check...here are MapQuest Directions. We are open 10am to 7pm Monday thru Friday...saturday by appointment only.

Yep. Yep. C16 is leaded race fuel with an octane rating of 116 or so. It is THE fuel to have when doing race gas maps for big power....bad for cats tho. Nothing. Nothing. No, both are the same thing...what it feels like is that the timing is being cut back to about 10deg or so....ive done back to back pulls in N/A EA82 subies playing with timing...and retarding the timing does the same thing...creats a loss of power. MAF+MAP+TPS+Engine Temp+Knock Sensor=timing. If only it would do so.... On the stock subies...timing is ECU as per preset timing/fuel map plus the inputs from TPS+MAP/MAF+knock sensor. Its nt that intelligent...it pulls timing...then advances it back as per knock.

its got the OE plat-num $12 each plugs...coil/plugs/wires are less than 15k old...all replaced about 6~8 months ago. I am going to pull the plugs and install some one step colder NGK V-Power plugs There was no detonation to be heard on the dyno. When I go WOT on the street, it goes away. Its only during 1/3~1/2~2/3 throttle accel under load...like, traffic conditions...that you can hear it. I did several of those type pulls (no charts tho) on the dyno and only got detonation once.

Ok...since I was bored: 18=std paper filter 20=K&N Drop in pannel filter 22=NO air filter Looks like any sort of aftermarket filter is a wate of money.

Ok...after ECU reset...same conditions...(mix of 10 gal of 87 and 5 gal of C16, new knock sensor, EGR disabled) 5 runs back to back to back to back to back. Hm...not any better.

I cant get delta dash to work on it. that being said... Ok...so...run 1 is not 100% warm...been sitting for a while while beeing strapped on the dyno etc etc... Run2 is when its fully warm....there you can see between 4k and 5k the power loss that it has....strange aint it? these are all 2nd gear pulls since thats the only gear it stays in. Now...after running water thru it as "steam cleaner" and some brake cleaner....then disabling the EGR...and some C16...THEN installing a NEW knock sensor...not much improvement at all.

I'll hook up DeltaDash to it tomorrow and see whats what...maybe throw it on the dyno and do some logging.... I might grap onto a knock sensor off an STi for a few pulls and see whats what...

I'm about to loose my sanity over what my Outback is doing/has been doing...wait, its already gone! :alien: 1996 Legacy Outback Wagon....EJ25D Phase 1 (earliest DOHC EJ25, the 155 hp version), 4EAT AWD....201k miles. Its all BONE stock except for STi struts (with stock OB springs and strut mounts). What does it do? CONSTANTLY detonates/pings/pre-detonates/knocks on accel to any sort of speed. All the time, it does it. *Ttt..T..TT...ttttttTTTTTTTTT....t...T....T...ttt....T...* ALL OF THE TIME. Now...its done this since I got it at 148k miles years ago...still does it to this day. Run 93 in it and it stops...mostly...but with it normally getting 20~24 MPG around town...with gas prices as they are, I can barely afford the 87 that goes in it. Assuming its done this since mile 1....how the heck has this engine lasted so long detonating/knocking/pinging/pre-detonating all the time? No CELs....EVER....I should find a spare knock sensor to throw in it and see if that makes any difference. I thought engines were supposed to blow up when they knock/detonate/predetonat/preignite/ping..... <------------is HIGHLY confoozed.

Yep.

It is an STi diff. Holding it up under an STi and Legacy XT...its the same unit. as far as the VLSD vs clutch type on the STi... I've seen the parts catalog...SUBARU calls is a mecanical...yes...WRX is a viscous....yes....but...up in the air, they both act the SAME....they act as a viscous. As far as contents...the rear diff from Stompy was sent off to get built up...Triple E Performance (who builds all the Spec Miata diffs and more) tore it down...basically his responce was "This is an open diff with useless clutch plates in it."

yeah its a 3.9 VLSD. all WRX's are 3.545 VSLDs until the 06's come out. the STi is some kind of junk 3.9 VLSD....well, all the VLSD's are junk.

They tried...the rear diffs in these new ones....well, SUCK....horribly. They dont do much of anything at all. yet another reason i love my over-engineered Gen3 Leone so much.

85 was the same.

yeah...so many things change is 20 years.... Hm. Just rust? Cliff notes: 2005 STi diff and 1985 RX diff look the same except for the 20 year buildup of rust on the RX unit.

Hm.....sink cali.

all of those spots to all the way thru and have matching rust areas on the otherside.

So i removed the rear bumper on the RX (pics to come!) and thought i would find the rest of the little spot of rust thats barely visible....only to find there's a whole row of rust thats gone thur the body now that the bumper is off and the trim panel is off and I can see it all. So....what recommendations do you guys have on fixing/stopping the rust? EDIT! Pics!

kinda a funny feeling when you start cutting up something that you are very dearly attached to.... I got all the wiring out and everything off the left front...and I cut that section off the car right in front of the subframe (the damage stopped there) and about 1/2 way over on the radiator pannel (where the damage stopped there too)...it looks odd. Kinda an odd feeling that I just did that. Oh well...as soon as I get the sedan up here...I'll be doing the same thing to it and then welding the good section in place on the RX...then its a matter of an engine...putting it all back together and it will be back on the road again. Hopefully, by the end of the month I'll have it done. Pics to come....too bad I didnt bring my camera today. EDIT! Pics!

STi key? send me a VIN. I'll see about it.

Yeah. Every day, we get calls... "did my stuff come in yet?" "no...i dont see it here...let me call and find out..." *we call...to find it was NEVER ORDERED...when Jason told the customer it had been ordered 1~2 months ago...or more.* "Sorry sir, but it was never ordered...I ordered it just now and it will be here in about 3 days." "oh...wow....thats...._______________" Yeah.