WJM

i didnt have a problem with the stock core and my GL-10 waogn with 134a.... When I swap in my 2.5....I'm going to HAVE to have AC here in Atlanta. Driving around in 100 degree stop and go traffic....I want it 75 or cooler inside.

The bosch supers (copper) seem to work 'ok'...but I have had lots of problems with SUBARUs and the bosch plats.

PM him n00b. Use the search butt0n. FLAM3zo000R!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!one!!!!!!!!!!!!!1111!!!!!!!!!!!tewo!!!!!!!!!

Coppers yield the BEST PERFORMANCE when used properly...aka gapped and changed regularly. Plat. and iridium plugs are for longevity....60k miles, and 100k miles change intervals. However, when those are put to the test...they really do not perform as well as a good copper. I would use the stock copper plugs, and make sure that the coil and wires are in good condition. From there...check on your air filter, and make sure the O2 sensors are working properly and last but not least...see if the cats are not clogged and if the muffler is still intact internally.

Basically. However, under 'extreme driving conditions' you cannot follow that. If you read further...you will find that turbo engines even driven by Grandma, are by nature an 'extreme driving condition' I use Motul 8100 Synergie 5w30 100% synthetic ester based oil in all my SUBARUs, N/A and turbo.

you cant use legacy spec springs on the Leone's with the legacy rear shocks...the top hat from the Leone must be used. Therefore the Leone springs must be used.

JE us US based and a large company...so you might could get something quciker than mahle. But Mahle is the best in the world.

both are factory peices. They look better with both.

http://www.jepistons.com/pdf/2005-srp1.pdf Page 4. You want 4032 pistons, no matter what anyone else tells you. Why? I have personal experience with both alloys; 4032 and 2618. 2618 is for RACE ONLY engines that you place on tearing down, inspecting and rebuilding/replacing pieces as needed...like, ideally after each weekend. At most, after a few races. The pistons do not come into their full capability until you are at WOT for long periods of time...aka road course, rally, endurance racing...etc etc. These are the pistons that people have problems with in street cars...since they never fully reach operating temp on the street...the have excessive blow by, improper wall to piston clearance since they never reach operational temps...and they bang against the cyl wall...since they never get to temp. So you burn oil, and destroy the pistons and cyl walls. Usually these engines on the street never see more than 10k to 15k miles before they degrade to the point that you cant drive it anymore. 2618 is low silicon and high expansion. 4032 is used in a lot of OEM applications due to its lower expansion attributes. 4032 has a much higher silicon content. I have installed the Mahle Power pack pistons (4032 alloy) in many STi engines. They have several different pistons avalible...all of them that I installed are the drop ins for the 99.5mm size. There is zero noise, zero oil consumption and in most cases better than OE performance. The 4032 is for people who want a lot of power RELIABLY and SAFE and do not want to tear into the engine very often. The 4032's as long as you have all the other supporting mods and PROPER tuning should be as if you have an OE spec engine...the engine should last for 100k miles or more. JE can make 4032 pistons...as long as you give them all the information that they need. Otherwise, contact mahle directly....as they can do it as well. I did have some trouble getting JE to even admit that they could make custom 1 off 4032 pistons...they only want to deal with 2618 and the did bash the 4032 alloy a good bit. However, anyone who knows anything knows that the 4032 is the alloy to have for a high performance street engine that is not going to be used for 'race only' and only used every once in a while on a road course/drag strip. of course...everyone thinks that the hypereutectic pistons in the STi are junk and dont last and are weak and la la la la la....well, they are not. They can handle 400hp/400tq at the wheels on a road course...all day long. The SOG One lap car did over 8,000 straight up road course miles (logged) and had zero problems...until the meth pump got stuck on and someone forgot to change the oil after a few track days so the oil turned to solvent and ate the bearings. But the pistons were fine. But heres a rather accurate wikipedia entry: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypereutectic_piston have fun!

Ya know...a set of pistons and rods will allow that engine to put out as much as the heads and cams will flow.

im going to fix the water pipe and do some dyno pulls... Then the RS engine goes in.

Still no updates.

No updates. I have not touched the car since my last post.

Its not going to. Hopefully JWX will continue this. The intake manifold cracked this morning. EJ251 goes in.

on leaks that are slightly worse when cold...you can use UP TO two bottles...but do not exceed two overall in the system. I usually put two in every one that i do a service on, just to be safe.

Well, I agree...but SOA did some extended studies and it showed that as long as you do the once a year flush and using the conditioner with SUBARU coolant, it doesnt leak.

If the leak is dripping on the ground while the car is running and warm, SOA will have to replace the leaking headgasket under warranty, as long as it is under 100k miles. The engine has to be original to the chassis. However, you need to do the following: Buy one gallon of SUBARU Coolant (comes in a white 1 gallon jug, says SUBARU Genuine Coolant for professional use only all over it...etc etc) Buy two bottles of the SUBARU Coolant System Conditioner And lastly, a NEW SUBARU thermostat and gasket. Now... Remove the two 10mm headed bolts from the thermostat housing, pull the t-stat out...let all the coolant drain out of the engine/radiator. Install the new t-stat/gasket...hose and housing etc etc... remove the upper hose from the rad, shake both bottles up VERY WELL and then pour them into the rad hose... now pour in approx 2/3rds of the coolant into the rad hose. Find some filtered/distilled/non-well water type water and finnish filling thru the rad hose until its full. reattach to rad...finnish filling thru the rad until full. start engine, let it warm up to purge all the air...and reinstall rad cap. Make sure the empty and clean the overflow tank and fill it 1/2 way with the SUBARU coolant. You are done. Now, you should not see any more leaks from the headgaskets in about 1 day. Your cooling system needs to be serviced this way ATLEAST once a year or every 12k miles. ALL N/A EJ25 SOHC engines REQUIRE the conditioner in order for the head gaskets to NOT leak. Its BS, I know...but thats what it takes. Otherwise, replace the stock head gaskets with these: 11044AA642 Those DO NOT LEAK.

Calipers are the same as WRX, brackets are shorter, rotors are smaller....pad plate is the SAME as the WRX. You can run 15" wheels over those. My 05 RS has the same caliper and pad as the late 03+ WRX, but the shorter bracket and smaller rotor...I've run lots of different 15's on it for autox use.

are those US WRX brakes? Teh rotor doesnt look as big as I remember a WRX rotor being...

Progress! Today I opened the box from ebay and I started the install. I have the wheel and sensor mounted: The air gap is set, the wheel/sensor position is correct; 9 teeth advance from where the sensor is, and the crank was set at TDC#1 when the wheel was welded on, the 2 peice pully was welded together...etc etc. Hopefully next week I'll get the rest of the wiring done.

my EDIS kit came in today....

So are you lonely driver...

Cuz I have an 05 STi rack and a complete EJ253/257 hybrid thats going in with an STi PS pump.

With the recent develop ments of the EA82 and my MS...its getting close to that time. Time to blow up another one. I will be coverting the MS-2 from the distributor system to EDIS4. When i do that, I will be revving the engine to 7,000 in preparations for the EJxxx swap. Why? I need to see if with the EDIS4 and MS-2 if I can SAFELY run the engine with zero problems for an extended length of time with a rev range of 1000 to 7000, and up to 20 PSI of boost. IF and only IF i have zero problems with that setup....will I use the MS on an EJ engine. If not, I will be using a stock EJ205 US WRX ECU to run my EJ engine. The main issue is random detonation, at random times....for no reason. The det events that happen are enough to shatter the EJ257 piston. However when tuned correctly, the EJ257 can handle 600 wheel HP. So no one can tell me "put real pistons in it, the stock ones are junk" They are NOT junk. I know this as a fact. With a stock EJ ECU, it can be tuned SAFE and RELIBLE with lots of power and stock driveability. So far with the MS...I have acceptable driveability, ok power, with not so great reliability. I am hoping that most of the problems are originating from the optical disty that has too much mechanical slack...and since the MS was not engineered specifically to deal with this setup, it is not ideal. However, many with EDIS are having zero problems, and nearly factory like driveability/power/reliability. So...the saga continues.

2002 should not have immobilizer....USA got the immobilizer in 2005.