sube4x4

Nevermind this thread...

Does anyone have a good rear steel bumper laying around that they want to get rid of?? Looking for something that could be used for towinf. Thanks. -Cody

BUMP! I'm interested in a front and rear for my 88' GL. No spare tire holder on the rear would be needed. Let me know asap!! Thanks. -Cody

86' GL Not long after I got it. I didn't do much to it besides the tint. And what it looks like today after hitting a deer at 55mph. Wheeler now. First day I had my 80' HB 1600 4WD I needed a way Moto.... The 86' HB 4SP D/R. Can't find any before pics but it was completely stock when I got it. No lift on 29" swampers:grin: One of the most fun cars i've ever had. And finally the 77' Resto. project. When I got it, it was covered in moss and mildew, and 2" of water inside. Right after being washed. Front end stripped. Today at my new house. Found good hood and fenders. -cody

I picked up this really straight 88' GL Wagon 4x4 D/R F.I. It is missfiring in cylinders 1 and 3. My first thought was timing belt skipped a tooth or two. I checked it out and it was good. I checked the wires, Clean the cap and rotor. Measured continuity through the cap. The only thing I can think of since there is spark at the spark plug end of both 1 and 3, is the plugs may be bad. But, unfortunatley I can't find my spark plug socket. So I will be checking this tomorrow. If anyone has any other ideas for me please let me know. Thanks. -cody

Try looking on ebay? -cody

This is exactly what happened to me. But I never fixed it as i was to lazy. It doesn't really cause any problems that I noticed. Just a little tick tick tick at slow speeds. -cody

The EA81 motor will not bolt up to the EA71 transmission. Also I belive in '79 the gearing was 3.7 and all EA81 are 3.9. So it seems to me that the best swap would be EA81 motor, trans, and rear diff. The existing drive line you have should work with the EA81 trans and EA81 rear diff. How ever i'm not sure if the EA71 axle's will work with the EA81 rear diff. I think they would though. I have personally swapped in an EA81 motor and trans into an '80 wagon that had an EA71 motor and trans. However the rear diff was a 3.9 as it was a 2nd gen. Also you'll need the EA81 coil. This will also allow you to have a dual range 4 speed. Then possibly in the future put a 5 speed in relatively easy. Hope this helps! -cody

Ya i've only driven it a few times. I hope it'll be done in a few years. I'll be starting on it again in a couple weeks. I see you work at RalliTEK. I used to make some of their downpipes. Hope business is still good for you guys. -cody

I read awhile back about what year of ej22 would be best for a swap into a loyale. I can't seem to find it... So if maybe a couple of you who have some knowledge on this could steer me in the right direction that would be great! -cody

86' GL wagon with 4" lift and EJ22. I would definately be interested. -cody

It started out as my great grand mothers car she bought new in 77'. She special ordered it in sprite green to match the local fire truck color as she was a nurse. She put 67,000 miles on it in the 15 years or so that she drove it. It then sat until 2009 when my grand father finally gave it to me after asking for it many times over a few years. Since I have owned it I have got it running and drove it a few times then decided it was time to start the restoration. My origional plan was to put a D/R 5 speed with a mildly built EA81 for the drive train portion. A 6in. lift to accomodate 27" BFG KM2's. However, my ideas keep changing and I belive i've finally come to a final decision.... EJ22 with a mild build, S/R 5 speed as they are much easier to find and cheaperI(possibly free:)) or an EJ trans as i'd really like to go with 4.11 oppossed to the 3.9, RWD, welded rear diff., lowered about 2in, 17's or 18's which ever fit better. The interior is all black but needs new carpet. Here are a few pics for now.... -cody

Cle Elum, WA and St. Helens, OR -cody

86' GL wagon with 275,000. EJ soon!

Yes that was me. Doin the EJ swap real soon now. Tired of that motors problems!! It does have 275,000 on her though. And chances are when you blew my doors off i was floored! I was probably moving stuff up to cle elum to my new house. -cody

From my experience, pickle forks work great if your not worried about ripping the boot. And yes that is a 14mm bolt that does need To come out. Try hitting your ratchet with a hammer it may jar it loose. When you put everything back together put some antisieze on everything. Or just some grease, that'd what I do anyways. That way next time it will all come apart easily. -cg

Ok, gotcha. Butya like I said about using the chizle on the back of the hub. Sometimes they are a PITA to get to pop apart. GL -cody

Is it the ball joint on the end of your tie rod? Or the one attached to the A-arm? -cody

Ok, I misunderstood you. I thought the bolt holding the ball joint was already out? -cody

That must have been one steep hill! In my old 86' hatch with ea81 and D/R I could climb up a tree if I could have gotten the traction!:grin: Maybe you need a tune up?? I ended up putting 29 swampers on that car and it still did fairly well on some steep stuff. Obviously not as much torque but still did pretty well for 55HP:banana: Theres a simple answer to your problem however. EJ22. -cody

This^^^ Or take a chizle and hammer it into the small gap in the back of the wheel bearing housing. Where the small gap is then use a pry bar and put it between the A-arm and the bearing housing. Or maybe a small amount of hammer. Works for me everytime. GL -cody

BAAAAAAADDDDDDAAAA$$$$$!!! 6in lift with some 27's would look sweet! Or drop it a few inches? Nice brat man. -cody

Perfectly stated GD. I have installed the sealed bearings and the shielded bearings. I've had the best luck with the shielded one's. The sealed bearings rubber seal always seams to break down, chewed up, melted some how... The shielded are steel covers on either side. I have not yet had a problem with these. But remember shielded doesn't mean sealed. -cody

I have a 1980 hatch with EA71 and i've been having trouble sometimes with keeping it running. Most of the time everything is perfectly fine. But sometimes when i start it the battery light and door lights etc stay on for awhile then clear and it'll run fine. But when they don't it'll die in about 30 seconds. I recently replaced the ignition switch because i found that the only time the fuel pump would pump was when the key was turned to the start position then would stop once clicked back to the run position. Could this problem be my alternator slowly dieing on me? I'm out of ideas. :confused: Thanks for any help. -cody