LosDiosDeVerde86

tirerack.com does nothing but give us a bad taste in our mouths at work. people buy tires there and expect us to mount them for free (if they buy Good Years) and we say no and they think that we're trying to rip them off. then when their defects begin to show they bring them to us and expect us to warrenty and/or fix them. when people buy a good year, and i'd imagine any other brand, from tire rack the manufacturer has nothing to do with them, but the customer (who is never right) thinks that it's our fault they bought a crap tire to save a few bucks.

i have a distaste for the regatta IIs. at work (independant GoodYear) we're always putting them on minivans and stuff. the tread design is boring too. the Trip.Treds.....i don't trust em. they look cool, and it's a good idea, bit the center being for snow traction scares me. in order to make a good snow tred there needs to be a good bit of siping and a softer rubber compound which leads me to belive that the center will wear more rappidly than the rest of the tire. Plus it's a brand new model. i'd like to purchase a tried and tested tire and not be a guinae-pig. Also, neither of those were choices.

I'm going with the 205/75R15 Good Year Wrangler RT-S. ...or the Kelly AWR....... back to square one....help me out guys RT-S AWR

sorry for all of the different threads about the same topic, i just don't want to spend 200 bucks on tires that will screw up my car.

if you go somewhere that does that, you need to find a better garage

i've got a 96 legacy LS (i know it's not old style) and i figured that you guys would be able to help me better than the new gen guys. i'm getting new tires in october and am seriously thinking about a larger size. for those of you who have put larger sizes on your cars for offroading: does the car handle different at highway speeds? do the tires wear different (faster/uneavenly)? can it be aligned with larger tires on it? do any mods have to be done in order to have the car safely spin the larger tires?

i wish i would have bought the GT or LSi over my crappy LS...stupid forest green....no skirts....or hoodscoop.....i hate my car..... ..............no, i can't say that. 'scuse me, i have to go out and appologize to my car....maybe take it out to dinner or something..

hmm....dont know much about it, but i would imagine that the turbo 4 is better for the speed and acceleration whereas the 6 is better for pulling.

whatnot and hoodscoops. if i want to putt around and be loud all day i'll take out my airfilter.

so basically, too much psi make your tire contact the road like this: \_/ too little makes the tire contact the road like this: \_/^\_/ get it.......?

whoa whoa.....it says in my chilton's manual, and i know from working at a garage, too much pressure (44psi) will cause center wear. too little will cause shoulder wear. use either the recommended psi or 35psi seems to work great. never go full psi unless you're carrying enough weight to flatten the tire out on the road.

what does that have to do with 96 leg mods???? i've got a 96 leg and wanted to hear about mods!!!!!! ...dissapointed again....

in my 96, i put an aftermarket airhorn in. (we all know how weak subie horns are) evidently i hooked it up wrong and it was blowing fuses and the horn uses the same fuse as the brake lights. so, when the fuse blew, because of the horn, the brake lights didn't work, and, like you, i had to tear my console apart to take the car out of park.

does subaru have any hands in the toyota rav4? the scoop is very subie like, as well as the steering wheel...it's exactly the same as my 96 leg wheel (i realize that they could both use the same steering wheel manufacturer.) just wondering if anyone knows anything.

using a gun can (theoretically) warp a rotor, but only if the tech doesn't use a torque stick. if they just use an impact socket than the lug nut is going on anywhere from 200 to 700 ft/lbs. the torque stick only allows it to go on up to it's specified number, usually, i believe 80ft/lbs. also, if the lugs are put on 1,2,3,4,5 there can be rotor warp. if they are put on (the correct way) 1,3,5,2,4 than there is less chance of the rotor being warped. but really it all comes down to the rotor quality, as well as number of vents in the rotor.

if you take a picture of your car i can photoshop it to give you a good idea. e-mail me if you have a pic

i've always been a big fan of the '98 RS. Very sporty with the wing, hood scoop, vents and large fogs. And as a bonus, nice aftermarketability and you get to keep the subie name! and by now, they're not that pricey

did you check all of the gas lines to make sure there's no leaks? also the fuel filter might need to be replaced....maybe...

tread deapth on tires (at least in the US) is measured by 32nds of an inch. brand new 215/75R15 passenger car tires are, in a sense, smaller because they only come with around 11/32nds of tread depth. Truck tire are larger (new) because they normally come with around 17/32nds of tread depth. So, when you see 215/75R15, this is NOT taking tread depth into account. make sense????:-\

right now i have the Dunlop SP Sport A2's on it right now and there's still a bit of tread. if i do this, i'll probably do it in time for winter. no sense is wasting 4 perfectly good tires. so it'll be some time before i get any pics up of anything.

http://www.kellytires.com/auto/products/sdtr.html That's what i'm looking at