Mike104

Here is a place in San Antonio that can either supply and exchange or rebuild yours for $395: http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Import%20html/Subaru.html You can also look near you for a shop that can do the work too as GD said

Can you let us know what model and year of your Subaru? I'm guessing that since you said speed sensor 2 it is an automatic? 4 or 5 speed auto?

Get the PXXXX codes read and come back and let us know what code is posted. I doubt you need a new ECU.

Worked for me with Firefox, but I've had other funky issues like that before. I usually try another browser too. Hope you got what you needed. As a side note, I found out that I have access to this info via my own local library too! Not quite as good as FSM but better than nothing!

Read this: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t88210-need-wiring-diagrams-all-your-problems-solved.html It lets you drill down to the specific submodel and wiring diagram.

Read this: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t88210-need-wiring-diagrams-all-your-problems-solved.html It lets you drill down to the specific submodel and wiring diagram.

I first posted the P0335 code was the CPS and then reread your posting saying it was a P0355 and then changed my post! Hope you get it figured out. Is the connector fully seated on the CPS? Take a look at the wiring too!

Here are some generic suggestions for no start that you may want to look at: http://www.aa1car.com/library/us1296.htm The code you posted is for Coil Issues.

Does the '05 have the external spin-on transmission filter? if so, did your mech put on a Subaru OEM transmission filter or one from the parts store? Read this: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23762&highlight=filter

Kudo's to shop for admitting their mistake and fixing it for no cost to you

On the camshaft there is a hex that can be used to hold the cam while you torque the bolt. You can also wrap a piece of the old belt around the cam sprocket and hold it with a pair of vice grips.

I seem to recall a thread somewhere that talked about a new style tensioner bracket that might have addressed the 96-2000 tensioners. Apparently the hyd tensioner could contact the bracket and it was suspected of causing damage to the newer style tensioner. It think the poster was going to go back to the old style two piece tensioner that was more reliable. Can't remember where I read that though? Here it is: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-repair-seattle-timing-belt-idlers-explained/ They start talking about the tensioner at 2:40 and mention the superseded bracket at 4:15

On a phase I EJ25 engine, head gasket leak is usually internal with coolant flowing from rad into overflow tank. This can be confirmed by checking coolant for combustion gases while the engine is operating. If the above test passes, perhaps a restricted or blocked heater core could be the cause of your overheating? My vote is head gaskets but I would confirm that with a block check (chemical tester from NAPA or online) before you change the head gaskets.

Have you changed the spark plug wires?

I think they mean this: Others have said to use wooden clothes pins to hold the timing belt onto the cam sprockets

You can use a seal installer or a piece of suitably sized PVC pipe or even a very large socket. You want to try and push on the outer edges of the seal evenly so the seal goes in straight.

Seems like no one uses the search function. 1. did you use a Subaru thermostat? Aftermarket ones can cause problems. Have you replaced the rad cap with a Subaru one? Did you get all the air out of the cooling system? Are you checking the coolant level in the rad (cold) or just the overflow tank? 2. If you used an aftermarket thermostat is it installed backwards? 3. Is your heater core plugged? You can bypass it with a couple of elbows and some heater hose as a temporary solution. Restricted heater core prevents the thermostat from opening properly. 4. Is the rad restricted? 5. do you have bubbles in your overflow tank? Does your over flow tank overflow? Under what conditions does your car overheat? Overheating is a common occurrence on some older Subaru's, try searching for overheating. You'll get lots of threads to read.

Thats why I order my Subie parts online. With shipping/no tax it usually costs less on line and I don't have to be ignored/mistreated by the parts clerks.

I have difficulty accessing it on occasion. It was down for me earlier today to.

Back to the OPs original question "is the from hub/bearing Assy a DIY project? Only major issue will be getting the axle nut off (150 ft lbs +/- Torque) and getting the hub/bearing assy off of the knuckle/axle). Compared to the 95-99 fronts and rear wheel bearings this should be a comparatively easy job, but rusty bolts, etc can make it more difficult. You will need a large socket (1 1/4 or 32 or so MM) a breaker bar/pipe, and maybe a slide hammer to get the hub/bearing assy off of the knuckle. You can buy/return that at Advanced Auto Parts and I think Auto Zone too. Replace the axle nut too. I haven't been able to find any DIY threads on this or a link to a FSM procedure. Good luck!

You are correct, only for rears!

Read this: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13316&highlight=wheel+bearing

Here is a link to a thread on "ghost walking". I have a 99 so its not something I have any experience with. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11267

Mine was 3/8" ID ATF Hose bought from local auto supply store. Canadian Tire or other parts supplier should have it.

Interesting thing is that Canadians that import US subarus into Canada have to make the MPH go in KPH. There must be a pile of speedo units somewhen in Canada that read in MPH? You could try this: http://www.iaperformance.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=2241 Here are some parts in salvage yards: http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi?userSearch=int&userPID=1000&userLocation=All+States&userIMS=&userInterchange=C%3DB%40B&userSide=&userDate=1998&userDate2=1998&dbModel=70.6.1.1&userModel=Subaru%20Legacy&dbPart=257.1&userPart=Speedometer%28See%20also%20Instr.%20Cluster%29&sessionID=200000000000000000145701078&userPreference=price&userUID=0&userBroker=&iKey=&userPage=13