Mike104

Are you using a leak down tester or pressure guage? I would normally recommend turning the engine in the direction of normal rotation.

ebay $259 shipped http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KYB-4-GR2-STRUTS-SUBARU-IMPREZA-RS-4WD-93-94-95-01-/120570865936?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c12956910

Best way to confirm HGs is to do the Combustion Gases in Coolant Test http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gasket_or_combustion_leak_test.htm yellow=HGs (or less likely cracked block/head) Spend the $50 and do the test yourself and if it fails, take it back to shop that put the Jasper engine in it and get it fixed. You could also remove the rad, flush it out or have it tested for blockage and refill (using method above) to eliminate radiator issues before you take it back. Good Luck!

The green stuff could be the remnants of the Subaru Coolant Conditioner. Get a rad cap from a Subaru dealer, the aftermarket ones don't fare well on Subaru's.

You can take the car to most Auto Parts stores and they can read the PXXX code and clear the CEL for free.

Trailer wiring drives me nuts at times. There were a number of threads on other sites about the trailer wiring converters being bad? I have had bad grounds between the trailer/car but it generally shows up as intermittent work/not work, that is not what you are saying is happening. HF makes a 4 pin trailer tester that has helped me in the past. I guess its either the converter, its wiring or the trailer. My bet is that its between the car and the trailer. Let us know how it turns out.

^ what rooster said! Here is a good link on DIY for the Oil Separator Plate http://beergarage.com/SubySeparator.aspx Engine or transmission has to come out to do this.

Max capacity (including torque converter) is 9.5 Quarts https://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/vehiclelookup.aspx?url2=1994+SUBARU+LEGACY+B best to let it sit for a few minutes to let the fluid drain down the tube. Make sure you check it while operating engine and cycling through all the gears. For a best level check the fluid needs to be at operating temperature.

it was replaced with an after market thermostat. Put in an OE thermostat from Subaru. These engines are fussy about them. Make sure the cooling system is properly bled. Clogged heater cores can also cause overheating. Chemical block tester for combustion gases in coolant is a good test for HGs (particularly on Phase I engines). Get a new Subaru rad cap too. Overheating on long trips does sound like either a bad waterpump or the beginnings of a HG problem

Here is a photo of the cover 91Loyale is referring to (from the back side with the engine removed) Thanks to beergarage.com It is a bit hard to see with the engine and intake installed, but its there.

The first plug is for your A/C compressor. Sounds like there is a problem and the PO disconnected the A/C compressor. When you select defrost it activates the A/C and that's probably where the screeching noise came from (compressor is probably seized). Not sure what the other connector is for, perhaps related to the A/C? Sounds like you are still having alternator issues. Check the voltage at the battery with the car running. Some parts store Alternators have a poor record on Subaru's.

Haynes (Legacy 1990 thru 1999) says that the engine identification number (not sure if that's the same as the VIN?) is on the top of the engine block near the transaxle (transmission). Not sure if that helps much.

Flashing AT light at startup means a fault code is stored in the TCU. You may want to get the check engine code read (free at most chain parts stores) and bring that back here. There is a way to read the TCU codes by grounding a wire and counting the flashes. Perhaps someone who knows the procedure will chime in?

'99 could be knock sensor but the code will tell you for sure. If its a leak from the back of the engine it could also be the Oil Separator Baffle (needs engine or trans removal to fix). Photo courtesy of Porcupine73:

I too had just the timing belt replaced at 136k miles at the dealer (before I knew about this place) because we were unable to determine if the PO replaced it at 105k. A year later the Camshaft or crankshaft oil seals went out and you guessed it, I had to pay for the TB change again. I think the dealer is more interested in fixing what is wrong with your car when its in there and keeping the cost lower with the hopes of getting you back in again to pay for another fix! I honestly think that since there is no requirement or recommendation from Subaru to replace those components unless they are bad, there is no effort by the dealers to change them, "just because". The advantage of fixing your own car is that you can do what you want yourself or if you have some knowledge you can ask for specific things to be done at the same time. I've driven long stretches of Northern Ontario roads (you know, the other side of the map) in my subie and it can be scary thinking about what could go wrong.

They have only been around since 2003 but I don't have any personal experience with them. Two of their executives used to work for Circuit City and we know how that ended up! I second car-part.com to find a used local one. Many places use Jasper Engines & Transmissions for their rebuilts. Shop is in Indiana but they are not cheap. As usual, you generally get what you pay for. http://www.jasperengines.com/transmissions.php

I don't recall when they added the spin on filter to the 4EAT transmission but on my 99 OBW its on the side of the transmission and I can see it by looking under the car by the drivers door. I seem to recall there being another location (in engine compt under battery?) for other models. If you have a spin on filter read this thread before you install one from the parts store: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/23762-subaru-transmission-filter-different.html My thought would be if it doesn't have a spin on filter you may be better off to just do the fluid drain & refill and leave the filter alone. (MHO)

Starting issues when cold can be the ECTS. I have also heard that stretched timing belts can cause that issue too. Plugs (NGK) and wires (Subaru or NGK) could contribute if they haven't been replaced in a while.

I think that pretty well sums it all up without any hype or marketing spin. As an interesting point of comparison many Jet engined aircraft ($$$$$$ engines) don't change oil either. Some do UOA to determine whether an engine or gearbox should be removed from service but not on when the oil should be changed. Due to the high usage rate of the engine it typically burns enough oil in normal operation (oil consumption rate is calculated and a limit is established) to go through an effective oil change. Again this is a synthetic oil only used on aircraft jet engines/gearboxes, Don't use it in your Piston Engine! (uses neopentyl polyol ester base stocks).

Two failures sounds like he didn't do something right. Sounds like he doesn't want to to the 2.2 swap or loose his mark-up on the CCR engine. Time to find yourself another shop or do the job yourself!

My bad! should have said timing belt (the accessory belts have to be removed to do the timing belt job) Just wondering as I live in the Cincy area and am looking for a good Subaru mechanic

What shop did your HGs?

Overheating and coolant transfer to recovery tank/coolant disappearing are signs of Head Gasket failure. Best way to confirm it is to do a Combustion Gas in coolant check either with a chemical kit or a combustion gas analyzer. Clogged heater cores have been known to cause overheating (restricted coolant flow). Could also be water pump.

"Don't put any in the oil" I'll second that! I put some in my engine oil on my 99 and all the oil seals started to leak! It may have just removed the gunk that was keeping them from leaking but it was an expensive fix! I use Techron as well in the gas tank every oil change. Cheap maintenance IMO.

I can't believe the prices around here (Cincinnati) people want for 95-02 Subaru's with blown engines or transmissions $2-4k (on craigslist).