Mike104

Here is some info: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless2010.html Based on your location a dealer may be the best option (assuming there is dealer near you) but it won't be cheap. In the US some locksmiths have the ability to cut and program transponder keys.

Here are some more sources: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/32780-best-online-sources-subaru-parts.html

Then the only other choice is a 2.2L swap. Do a search here for the details. If you get the right 2.2L engine (engine from same transmission type - MT or Auto) with the same EGR setup, it will be a plug and play installation if you swap over your intake manifold. Some of the Cam or Crankshaft pulleys may have different timing targets so keep your old engine until you get the new engine started. You don't say how many miles on the engine or what car (the '99 Outback had the Phase I 2.5L engine and the other cars for '99 generally had the Phase II). Since you did say the HGs had been replaced I'm going to guess that you have an Outback. I'm with John it may be cheaper to fix the bad valve or just put on a used head (make sure you adjust the valves).

^ what GD said. Its item 7 on this illustration: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_30/climate/compressor/illustration_2/ 73134AC010

The DOHC can be done in the car, but many say that you get a better quality job and it ends up being easier to remove the engine to do the DOHC HGs. The SOHC is a bit easier to do and some have done it in the car. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/7867-2000-my-obw-car-head-gasket-replacement.html It really depends on what tools/space/skill set/time available you have to do the job.

The only ways I know to get OEM service manuals is to download them from Subaru, subscription required at http://techinfo.subaru.com/index.html Or you can order a hard copy from your dealer parts department or by phone at "Service Technical Information Company" Help Desk at (866) 428-2278 There are some variations of manuals available on the web but I don't have any info on the sources.

Sounds like a road trip to Jacksonville with a flat bed and a bunch of cash to get some Subies for parts/rebuilds to sell. Not that many around where I live and even the 15 yr old ones with 200k and needing engines are asking $2k

Probably need to reprogram the remote to the car. Don't know what car you have but here is a link to many of the OEM security systems used by Subaru: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html Don't know if your remote is the same as North America or if it an aftermarket one.

To the OP's original question, cost of parts to do HGs, I found this set at an online Subaru parts dealer for $209+ shipping. It includes all the gaskets needed to do the HG job. http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=3783 It does not include any timing belt items or cam/crank seals that you may want to do while you are there. Shawn may be able to get you a better price.

John, I have heard about others using the Harbor Freight FWD wheel bearing tool kit to do the front wheel bearings. I'm not sure if the Kent Moore kit called out in the endwrench article has the right pieces to do the fronts. The HubShark system is marketed towards front wheel bearings and uses the same process as the endwrench article uses: http://www.kentool.com/catalogs/hubshark.pdf

Here is a link to an endwrench article that shows the use of the Hub Tamer/Hub Shark type system to remove and install the wheel bearing and wheel hub: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Articles--/--Endwrench--/WheelBearing.pdf that is the recommended method rather than using a press that can distort the knuckle (the part the bearing is pressed into).

May want to check the battery terminals and clean them if needed. Also alternator wiring/grounds. Then start the car, and turn ALL electrics on and then run the engine to 1800 RPM and check the charging voltage at the battery and alternator output at 1800 rpm. It should be around 14V or so. (shamelessly stolen from Nipper at SubaruOutback.org). You may want to return the alternator anyway as I have heard some of the parts store ones are POS. YMMV

Some here use local junkyards or you can always search here: http://www.car-part.com The 2.2L swap only really works for the 95-99 ish cars without too much difficulty. Probably best to do a timing belt/reseal job on the engine going in to give maximum life.

This is the older style: Newer one looks like this: If you change styles I think there is a bracket that has to be replaced? Most seem to like the older style better. +1 on what GD said

Nipper suggested doing the loaded voltage check at 1800 RPM not idle. You probably have it fixed. May want to check your battery too as it has been discharged a lot recently. If its fairly new (couple of years) its probably ok.

OP lives in the Great White North (literally)! This may be more available where he lives: http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/2/CordedPowerTools/CordlessImpactDrivers/PRD~0541216P/Mastercraft%252B3KO%252BCorded%252BImpact%252BWrench.jsp?locale=en or http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/2/CordedPowerTools/CordlessImpactDrivers/PRD~0091522P/Impact%252BWrench%25252C%252B12V/CROSSSELL~0541216%20Mastercraft%2B3KO%2BCorded%2BImpact%2BWrench.jsp?locale=en or shipped http://www.princessauto.com/workshop/power-tools/corded/impact-wrenches/8130288-1/2-electric-impact-wrench Closest Harbor Freight is a couple of days drive away. I vote for the JB Weld and strap option.

The OPs question asked the differences between DOHC vs SOHC HGs. The DOHC was the Phase 1 2.5L and tended to have internal HG leaks from the engine exhaust gases into the cooling system resulting in the coolant being discharged out of the overflow bottle and causing overheating. Expensive fix if you have to pay someone to do it and if the engine is overheated severely can result in damage to the engine bearings etc, resulting in rod failure after replacing HGs. The SOHC was a Phase II 2.5L and tended to have external HG leaks of coolant or oil and the Subaru Coolant Conditioner was specifically called out by Subaru to reduce the coolant leaks. If the coolant level gets low (because its not checked by the driver) this can cause the engine to overheat. As to when the problem was "fixed" I can't really say. The 633 P/N is the latest P/N available from Subaru (all others are superseded). Some have said good quality repair with newest OEM HGs are fine, others have said swap the 2.5L with a 2.2L. The 2.2L engine does not exhibit a similar frequency for HG failure, but it can happen on any engine. Here is some info http://www.subaruheadgasket.com/index.htm Subaru did change the gasket design for the 2010 model: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-changed-there-head-gasket-for-the-2010-25l/

Amazon has them for $50/pair: http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Outback-Tailgate-Supports-Struts/dp/B0030DEOQA or directly from here http://www.autopartsbylou.com/lift-supports-products.php?make=SUBARU&model=Legacy&year=2000&type=mmy&x=24&y=14 They are $49 each from online Subaru dealer: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Legacy&subcat=Rear+Gate+Stay&year=2000

Here is one from a 2.5L in a 2001 Outback: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/26199-2001-timing-belt-water-pump-valve-cover-gasket-set.html Here is a post by John that has numerous links : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=952890&postcount=7 Photos: http://lovehorsepower.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48:1995-subaru-legacy-outback-timing-belt-and-water-pump-replacement&catid=10:subaru-legacy&Itemid=64

The combustion gas test of the coolant will confirm the leaking HGs. The Phase I 2.5L head gasket failure is different from other engines that exhibit HG failures in that the 2.5L Phase I engine will initially start blowing exhaust gases into the cooling system that will overflow the overflow reservoir. This empties the cooling system and lets the engine overheat. There is a chemical test kit at NAPA and other auto parts stores for about $50 that will confirm the presence of exhaust gases in the coolant. That is proof positive that the HGs are bad.

+1 on what fairtax says ^. Subaru recommends the use of a special tool, similar to the HubShark to replace wheel bearings on the cars that don't have the bolt in hubs. There is an endwrench article on it but I don't have it anymore and the site is now no longer operated by Subaru. Found it here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Articles--/--Endwrench--/WheelBearing.pdf Some have used this kit from Harbor Freight or one similar from the parts store tool rental programs. http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html If you take the knuckle/bearing to the Subaru dealer you may want to get a quote first.

If you go to a chain auto parts store they can hook up a code reader and tell you what code is stored. My guess is it had a P0420 code so they removed the Check Engine bulb to sell it. Get the code numbers (PXXXX) from the auto store and come back here and USMB will help you get them fixed.

KY is the same. Ad Valorem Tax is due Jan 1. If you total your car at 12:01 am on Jan 1st, you still owe all the tax for the year.

This thread gives a general description of how to change the wheel bearings in which the major part is to remove the knuckle. If you buy a new one it won't have the bearing pressed in to it. If you put a used one in, the bearing should be there. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=787070 I've heard that the ball joint and tie rod ends can be difficult to remove.

Item 3 is commonly called the knuckle (Housing-front axle, right) and the bearing (#5) is pressed into that: