Mike104

My experience is similar to Porcupine73, I generally just put in a rebuilt caliper. If I did more of them it may make sense for me to rebuild them but local Advance Auto can usually get them same day if I order them before noon from their distribution center. There are also online places to order from if you have the time. I have had issues with the bleeder screws breaking on the 14 yr old calipers on my car so I just put on a rebuilt unit. I have done them in the past and have had similar leaking/corrosion issues. Good thing is each of us can do what works for us with all the available parts.

The only other site that I know that provides part numbers (US Spec) is http://www.subarupartsforyou.com

This one uses a special Subaru tool that some have used a Harbor Freight FWD wheel bearing tool on: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Articles--/--Endwrench--/WhBearRep.pdf Here is a guide for a rear wheel bearing that uses the Harbor Freight FWD Wheel Bearing tool. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1925081 If you don't have the tools to change the wheel bearing, changing the complete hub assy with a used one is often the best solution. UPDATED with new link

Did you use a Subaru OEM thermostat or one from a parts store (Stant). Our cars really prefer the Subaru one. You can't really install the OEM one backwards.

Did you use a Subaru OEM thermostat or one from a parts store (Stant). Our cars really prefer the Subaru one.

AT Oil Temp light flashing means code stored in TCU. There is a way to review these codes either by a handshake or a key on-off sequence. Best to find what Transmission code is stored first.

The units for the 95-99 OBW do not have pulleys on them. You may have to call a store to see it the one for your car has the pulley or not Or you could get one from a JY.

We all remember what happened when Ford Explorers ran with lower tire pressure that was recommended by Ford and lower than Firestone wanted: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firestone_and_Ford_tire_controversy That issue was one reason why cars now have Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems. http://www.nhtsa.gov/DOT/NHTSA/Rulemaking/Rules/Associated%20Files/tirepressure-fmvss-138.pdf Two main considerations are to not inflate the tire pressure COLD above the maximum rating on the tire sidewall and to inflate the tires for equal wear across the surface as mentioned above.

I had a similar noise from the rear on my '99 OBW when driving over bumps particularly on the highway. I replaced the rear sway bar links (worn bushings) and while it did reduce the sound a bit, it was still there. I replaced the rear struts and mounts (270k miles) and the noise is now gone.

Also need to disconnect the fan electric connectors to remove the Rad/Fans as a unit. ATF hoses were welded on! I just cut them and bought new straight hose with new clamps. Worked ok. Bolts that mount the fans can be rusted. Spray some PB Blaster on there first.

I found those connectors on my car and thought the same thing, hey they should be connected. Then I said it ain't broke don't "fix it" and left them alone. Then read on forums what they were for.

Now I read this thread! I just did the rears on my '99 (270k miles figured they were due!). I disconnected the brake hoses (no problems) and then found out that one bleeder screw was corroded and would not bleed (new bleeder screw) and the other side screw broke when I tried to open it (lots of PB Blaster first) and ended up buying a new caliper instead of trying to drill out the busted bleeder. Now I have new rear struts and mounts (mounts probably not needed), flushed brake fluid and car handles much better. Going to tackle front ones in a bit but will check threads first. I know that some have had issues with the ABS cable mounting bolt.

http://www.haynes.com/products/productID/287

If it hasn't been removed in a while, it can be difficult to move. Mine hadn't been touched in at least 4 yrs when I removed it first. It was a bear, but suggestions mentioned above are good.

In some cars those are called seat belt retractors that force the seat belt to retract ensuring that you stay in the seat when the air bag deploys. I think some Subaru's have those?

The owners manual will specify what type and grade of oil are required. $80 seems a bit steep unless you are paying someone to change it (not a dealer!!). If it was a turbo I would definitely use synthetic oil (IMO). http://www.cars101.com/subaru/maintenance2.html Says there are conflicting statements regarding required or recommended synthetic oil, but then says this: Required in (statement effective July 2010) 5w-30 synthetic is required for all 2011 turbo engines 0w-20 synthetic is required for the 2011 Forester 2.5L non turbo, this is the only non-turbo that requires synthetic My Subie is a '99 and I use a blended oil that meets the API spec in the owners manual.

The sixth digit on the Subaru VIN is for Engine Type Position 6 - Engine types, varies by year. This can change yearly VIN Code Description 1 1300cc - 1989; 1800cc FWD 1996 2 1600cc - 1989; 1800cc Impreza 1993-95; 1800cc Impreza AWD 1996-97; 2000cc AWD Turbo 2002-05 3 1600 4WD - 1989; 3300cc FWD/AWD 1992-1995; 2200cc FWD 1996-99 4 1800cc 1985-94; 2200cc AWD 1996-2000 5 1800cc 4WD w/out air susp - 1988, 1989; 1800cc 4WD 1990-94 6 2200cc 1990; 2200cc FWD/AWD 1991-95; 2200cc AWD (Ghost); 2500cc AWD 1996-2000; 2500cc AWD 7 1800cc 4WD w/ air susp; 1200cc FWD 1989-94; 2500cc AWD Turbo 8 2700cc FWD; 1200cc 4WD 1991; 1200cc AWD 1992-94; 3000cc 2001-2009; 3300cc FWD/AWD 1996-97 9 2700cc 4WD w/ & w/out air susp 1989-91; 3600cc 2008-up http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Vehicle_Identification_Numbers_%28VIN_codes%29/Subaru/VIN_Codes A more comprehensive guide is here http://www.cars101.com/subaru/vin.html

Definitely check the valve clearances as Dave mentioned. Depending on the condition of the heads you may want to consider having a leak down test done to determine if the valves need any work before installing the heads. Another thing to consider may be changing the valve stem seals and having the heads checked for flatness/resurfaced to ensure long HG life. You may also want to replace the camshaft seals and all timing components while you are there. There may be some other things I may have missed but hopefully more knowledgeable members will chime in.

Valve cover gaskets are also a known leaker. But you don't have to pull the engine to change those. My '99 2.5L had all of those (Cam/Crank seals, Oil Baffle Plate and Valve Covers) leak.

Zerk fitting is another name for a grease fitting or grease nipple The U-Joint is open and I lubed mine with WD40. Any lube would probably work but you may have to consider your environment to determine which type would work best at your location

the rear leak could be the oil separator plate on the engine. You have to remove the engine and the flex plate to get at the plate. The new style is steel instead of aluminum or plastic. Here is a link that gives some photos but are shown with the engine removed http://beergarage.com/SubySeparator.aspx Most leaks on these Subies seem to all end up on the exhaust giving that stench. Only worse thing is the axle grease spewed onto the exhaust!

One other thing to consider is to lubricate the U-Joint that connects the steering wheel shaft to the rack. There have been other reports of temporarily stiff steering being fixed by just lubing the U-Joint. Its cheap!

There is a device called an Illumination Control Module that controls those that may have gone bad.

Could be the bulbs. This post covers the Heat control buttons and is similar for the other switches: http://www.scoobymods.com/legacy-hvac-bulb-replacement-t91.html?t=91 Here is one for switches that is similar for most: http://www.scoobymods.com/fog-cruise-switch-light-bulb-t3615.html

Read this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=126347 pictures too!