Mike104

Shawn, Thanks. You are correct, if someone with 10+ys or 200k comes searching for a P0420 code and doesn't read the original post, going to the dealer would not be my first choice!

OP said MY 2007 and 49,000 miles. That should be within the 8yr/80,000mi warranty?

search for theimportexperts on google and get one of their kits. You should probably change the water pump too. If one of the idler bearings or water pump goes after you just change the belt, count on having to remove the heads (HGs) and getting valves replaced after they get hit by the pistons if the timing belt jumps (interference engine). Its false economy to save a few bucks on something that will bite you in the butt if it fails. Much cheaper to spend a few bucks more now than spending a whole lot more later! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-1997-1998-SUBARU-LEGACY-IMPREZA-2-2-TIMING-BELT-KIT-/390298367064?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5adf987458

+1 on what gary said! for 2002 P/N is 22791AA00A (assuming you need a front O2 sensor) http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Outback&subcat=Sensor%2C+Oxygen&year=2002 for 1997 P/N is 22690AA290 http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Outback&subcat=Sensor%2C+Oxygen&year=1997 I have no idea what the difference is

42084FA100 or 42084AE100 http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=16370

You may want to check http://opposedforces.com/parts/ to see what the part numbers interchange with

That's the tool that some have used. It may be easier to just change the hub assy from a junk yard car rather than fussing about with the hub removal. If you live where lots of salt is used you could get one from say Arizona using http://www.car-part.com and having them ship it. Here is a generic guide to replacing a wheel bearing (that you may have to do to change the tone ring). http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=787070 Here is a Subaru procedure (for rear bearings) that uses the Subaru tool that is similar to the HF Kit http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Articles--/--Endwrench--/WheelBearing.pdf

There was another long post about hesitation that the OP fixed by adding a robust ground wire. Some have also had good luck cleaning the ground wires too. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/25717-hesitation-problem-finally-solved-my-car-anyway.html

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=120110

From subarupartsforyou.com Pipe 42066AC150 $105 Valve 42084FA100 aka 42084AE100 $59 Ring and Packing 42056AA010 & 42060GA081 $11 Screws 047405160 X3 $3 (you may be able to reuse yours) $178 + Shipping http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Outback&subcat=Fuel+Pipe&year=1999 eBay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Legacy-Outback-fuel-filler-tube-w-hdwre-fits-99-/360247028083?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e0656973 $189 + $17 Shipping

Your call: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/37399-vibration-idle-after-replacing-front-axles-solved.html

I just did the same thing on the left side of my '99. New caliper, new pads, new rotor. Vibration and noises when applying brakes now gone. Rt side over 80% of pad remaining. I know conventional wisdom is to replace both sides when doing this but I was out of time and low on funds so just did the left side.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_27/manipulation/selector_system/illustration_2/ Might be item 4 Solenoid unit-shift lock,

I went through a similar decision when my '99 OBW 2.5L HG's went. Engine had 236k miles and was suggested that if I simply just put new HGs in it may have other problems down the road. Since I had to pay someone to do the job, I went with the CCR engine as it was complete (timing belt, tensioner, oil filter, spark plugs, etc). The other options were bare long blocks (short block and heads only) by the time I paid to have all the other stuff done (at flat rate) it added up quickly, so for me the CCR option ended up being the easiest. My CCR engine has 35k on it now and other than a misfire after installation (fixed itself) I have had no problems yet. I would look into the local guy that GD mentioned. Always better to get something local from those with experience. If I had it to do again, I would probably go the 2.2L swap if I could find someone local to do it for me.

http://www.ajusa.com has good prices on KYB struts. Monroe recommends you replace their shock/struts every 50,000 miles. Not exactly what I would call long-life

105,000 Miles or 105 months. Should be in the owners manual that you can obtain by visiting the My Subaru website.

That's for the front heated windshield near the wipers when parked. Part of the Winter Package.

^ that is what I would do.

2.2L non-interference engine is generally bulletproof. The 2.5 SOHC is better than the DOHC, but unless the seller has good maintenance records (oil changes, Subaru coolant conditioner, timing belt & "while you are in there"stuff) you may want to discount the price to address a future HG repair. If the 2.5 has been overheated it can result in the rod bearings dying shortly after HG replacement.

I would look for a vehicle with a 2.2L or a Phase II 2.5L (SOHC) engine (99+ Forester/Impreza/Legacy? or 2000+ Outback). The DOHC version of the engine has internal HG leaks that lets exhaust gases into the cooling system requiring the replacement of the Head Gaskets. The SOHC version generally has external oil/coolant leaks that can be driven while leaking as long as you maintain the oil and coolant levels. Buying one with bad HGs cheap and putting in a rebuilt engine may work for you if you can do the engine R&R yourself or have friends who can do it with you. If you get one with a bad 2.5L engine you can also do a 2.2L swap if you have the right vehicle (95-99?)

This post http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48893&highlight=separator also says the 90/92 ones were aluminum. I was thinking about the '95-'99 ones. Hopefully one of the uber Subaru wrenches can confirm it.

Opposed Forces lists two numbers for '93 2.2L engines (I would think the '90 would use the plastic one). 11831AA080 (Think this is the plastic one) 11831AA150 (Think this is the AL one) Both of the above ones use countersunk screws. They have all been replaced by 11831AA210 that is the steel one and uses flat head screws. If yours has the plastic one I would change it, perhaps some of the USMB members may have an AL one they could give you?

I agree with The Dude, only way is confirm/deny HG leak of exhaust into coolant is with a tester. Some may have trained noses but I don't. This kit/fluid is less than $35 from Autozone: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Block-Tester/_/N-25dh I did the test on my car (2.5L DOHC) and knew that the HGs were toast. Made making the next choice a bit easier. Its your car, make the choice thats best for your situation. I wouldn't spend $1500 without knowing for sure that the HGs leaked, a pre and post HG replacement test would give peace of mind in my opinion.

GD pretty well hit it on the head. http://www.radiators.com has some from $99 but need to speak to you to get the correct fit. http://www.radiatorbarn.com is $150 delivered + Tax if applicable

'97 OBW = EJ25D = Phase 1 engine = Internal HG Leak Bubbles in the overflow tank is a common sign of HG leaks on the Phase I EJ25D engine. My '99 started having the coolant transfer into the overflow bottle and would not return to the rad when cold. I tried a new Subaru rad cap, thermostat and new overflow bottle hose, no change. Best way to confirm HG internal leaks on an EJ25D is to use a chemical block tester or an exhaust gas analyzer to sniff for CO in the coolant (engine has to be running when doing the test). Chemical kits are about $50 or so, NAPA and several online sources have them. Since you have already changed the rad cap and PCV valve, you may want to do this test next to confirm or deny the HG internal leak. Here is a link to some more info on checking for exhaust gases in the coolant: http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gasket_or_combustion_leak_test.htm Here is a link to a kit at NAPA https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=BK_7001006_0282477652&An=0 Good Luck!