Mike104

Here is a similar thread that talked about the same question: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/89-oil-fuel-discussion/25013-oil-filter-use.html My personal opinion is that while the most significant difference between the Subaru OE filters and the aftermarket ones is the Pressure Relief setting (23psid for Subaru) and that many of the aftermarket ones don't meet that spec, that any good quality filter changed at regular intervals 3-5k miles with good quality oil should be just fine. Here is a link to a discussion about the oil filter history as used by Subaru: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-service-seattle-subaru-oil-filters-explained/ My current engine warranty requires Subaru OE filters for the next 50k miles so my choice is made. Once the warranty expires I am going to use this filter: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-oil-filters-for-sale/

http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=11587 They don't seem to have a selection for the Postal Legacy. You may want to call them and see if these will fit your car. Likely will be fun to change. You could try taking the banjo fitting to a performance shop and see if they can make you a short pipe to attach a hose to? https://www.subaruonlineparts.com/oempartscat.html Same part number: 45522AC152 is $38 there vs $44 from first place. Shipping not included so check wih your local dealer to see their price and compare.

Here is the aftermarket version (Walker): http://www.walkerexhaust.com/catalog/ExhaustCouponScreen.asp I have seen some on eBay that are longer, one piece section?

While it is a Phase II EJ25 that are more susceptible to external leaks than internal ones like the Phase I your description of what is occurring (fluid transfers from rad to overflow) is how my Phase I started acting when the HGs went. I carried around a large turkey baster to move coolant from the overflow tank to the rad after every trip (when enough time had passed to make sure the engine was cold) until I could get the replacement engine (236k on odometer) ordered, delivered and installed. Best way to confirm HG leak is to use an exhaust gas analyzer or a chemical block test kit to see it there are combustion gases in the coolant. If positive, its likely an HG or other internal engine issue. Its usually a cheap test and is a good pass/fail test. Negative test means look for other issues. Positive test means take off the heads and check for bad HGs.

SOHC to DOHC swap would be lots of work. For an engine try here: http://www.ccrengines.com

Don't have any advice on the transmission source. Here is a link to the Separator Plate that can leak and is accessible with the engine or transmission removed. http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-seperator-plate-explained/ I seem to remember on some board about a trans filter that slipped down and prevented the fluid from being picked up by the pump, not sure if its related to your issue or not.

Here is a link to a loctite repair on crankshaft pulleys http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/LoctiteCrank1.html Maybe have them put in a new bolt with loctite as well? Definitely use the higher end of the allowable torque.

This link covers the 95-99 Subaru's: http://www.scoobymods.com/legacy-hvac-bulb-replacement-t91.html?s=&threadid=91

Here is the link for the HG differences: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/ Here is the one for the "better" HG http://allwheeldriveauto.com/a-better-subaru-25l-head-gasket-in-seattle/

If the engine is coming out definitely worth doing it now as opposed trying to save a couple $100 to have to take it all apart later and spend even more to change that $15 seal you tried to save money on. Seals/HGs/Timing Belt/Waterpump with repaired heads means another 100k miles without many other issues

Brackets and stuff may be different but here they show the same P/N for both 2.2 and 2.5 http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/73111AC030/ You could start here with your car info and drill down to the P/N for your car and then click on the P/N to get usage info. http://opposedforces.com/parts/

You can do it yourself: http://www.toolfetch.com/Product/LIS75500.htm I think NAPA has those available in their stores Some prefer the electronic gas analyzer, but I don't have any experience with those

Its the blue O-ring in this picture. Need to remove the Oil Pump first. Will make it easier to change the front crankshaft seal too.

http://www.subarupartsforyou.com or http://www.subaruonlineparts.com Are two that I have used and they are genuine Subaru OE parts (online parts sales from dealers).

The Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (P0115) can make it hard to start and run bad until its warmed up. Its about $20 from Rock Auto. Plugs and wires can cause the Misfire codes. Should use Subaru OEM wires or NGK wires and for sure use NGK plugs. Guess you have to balance the cost of repairs/insurance vs car payments.

Good thing! I was coming back to edit my post to mention some important items when changing those seals (had to find the details first). http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81057&highlight=front+axle+seal But nevermind since you don't need to change the seal.

No push rods on a H4 2.5L? Separator plate here: http://beergarage.com/SubySeparator.aspx

Passenger Side: Subaru P/N 806730031 http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=15394 Driver Side: Subaru P/N 806730032 http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=15395 Looks like items 5 and 17 here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_45/train/differential_transmission/

Wish i knew about that site before I got mine replaced! http://www.antennamastsrus.com/Subaru/Legacy/Legacy%20Wagon%201997-1999.htm Thanks for the great lead (for next time it dies!)

Here is a photo of the cover that you remove and can put a screwdriver/prybar in to hold the flexplate to torque the crankshaft bolt

For Subaru specific info this is a good place: http://cars101.com/

Here is a photo of the O-Ring on the block before the Oil Pump is installed: and here is one of the sealant on the oil pump: Here is a direct link to the thread these photos came from: http://beergarage.com/SubyOPump.aspx Thanks to beergarage.com

One place to look for parts "where used" info is thru this parts catalog: http://opposedforces.com/parts/ From that link, drill down to the specific part and when you click on the part number it will list what models/years used that specific art number. Like this http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/73134AC001/

Here is a link to a post with some how-to instructions and photos for some of the tasks that you are going to do. I does provide fairly clear info on what different parts mentioned actually are. http://beergarage.com/Subaru.aspx

Ignitor (Ignition Control Module) is $175+ at the online places I checked (Rock Auto and Subaru Online Dealer). Dealer list price is $255. Many here suggest getting one from an auto salvage yard.