Mike104

Did you do the combustion gas test of the coolant (engine running) yet? That will confirm HG leak. Overheating can be something else (heater core among others), but the combustion gas test is cheap confirmation before you take everything apart.

Photo from Porcupine73 at Subaru Outback forum

Steel bolts in Aluminum head/block. You will strip out the threads before the bolt yields IMO. Doing this job out on the street is possible but a garage or driveway would be better (warmer weather too). There are alot of how to threads on this job here and in other forums. I would say that it is a doable job if you have the tools and down time to do it. I would say $300-$500 for parts depending on where you source them from. Some should be OEM or equivalent supplier. HGs and Thermostat definitely Subaru. I have heard that some Felpro engine gasket sets have Subaru Head Gaskets in the kit. Since you are going to change the HGs I would do the whole thing (heads checked for flatness/leak down test of valves/replace valve seals, replace timing belt/tensioner/idlers/reseal camshafts/front crank seal, replace water pump and reseal oil pump). If you do all that the engine should last for another 100k. How many miles on the engine now? Here is a link to a DIY with photos from a Forester: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f66/how-replace-ej25-head-gaskets-without-removing-engine-57335/

Yes I am

Since yours is a 96 it has a Phase I motor. Best way to diagnose a HG leak is to use a chemical Block Tester (sold at NAPA) or if you know someone that has one, an Automobile Gas Analyzer. If there is CO in the cooling system=HG leak. It often starts off slowly and gets worse. First thing is to change the thermostat to a Subaru OEM one and make sure you get all the air out of the cooling system. Radiator issues and/or cooling fans could also create overheating issues. Clogged heater core can also cause overheating issues (reduced coolant system flow). You can bypass the heater core with a fitting to eliminate that as a possibility.

Send the heads out to check for flatness. Maybe change the valve seals since the heads are off. Check valve clearances before it goes in. Since you do have to remove the engine, may as well do everything while its out.

Lateral Link Bolt?

From another forum: 11831AA210 Oil Separator Cover http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=11564 Torque spec on the bolts is 4.7 ft-lbs. The separator plate is to be sealed with "THREE BOND 1215 or equivalent". The sealant is available at Subaru dealers for about $20-25. The most commonly used approved substitute is, I believe, Permatex Ultra Grey RTV available at all auto parts stores for about $6-7. http://www.subaruoutback.org/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=6778&size=big&papass=&sort=1 You have to pull the engine or transmission to change this part. One way to see if this is a possible problem look underneath the car and see if it looks like the oil pan gasket is leaking. The rear main and Oil Separator plate leaks tend to collect near the oil pan and it looks like an leak there.

Ok your're going to change the axle assembly not just the CV joint. Yeah fixing the boot not worth the bother in my opinion. You have to remove the axle to disassemble it to change the boot, so IMO just change the axle. MWE has a good recommendation from some members here. Others have also recommended Raxles.com for other Japanese make cars but I have no experience with them or know if they have any Subaru experience. As far as the ball joint vs lower control arm I guess it depends on how rusted your car is and what tools/equipment you have. I would think the lower control arm would be easier if your ball joint is rusted. I know I'm going to try the strut trick John mentioned above first (may need an alignment afterwards if bolt is not marked and put back in the same place) and then I going to try the control arm next if the first one doesn't work. Ball joint is last in my list (IMO). Some have said this tool helps get the ball joint out of the knuckle: YMMV

Here is one for changing an a WRX. Yours should be similar: http://www.scoobymods.com/diy-wrx-front-axle-t11665.html Are you changing the axle or just the CV Joint? MWE Axles sells rebuilt Subaru axles for $75 ea and they have a good reputation on many Subaru boards: http://www.ccrengines.com/id28.html

If you are planning to sell it you can just to the minimum. If they are leaking while you are there it would be best to change it. Think the seal is only $10 at the dealer so its not a big expense compared to the rest. Only need to do the front one unless your pulling the engine and the rear one is leaking. How many miles on the engine?

Here is link to a how-to for 2000 MY so should be of assistance: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7867&highlight=head+gasket Here is the general consensus I've gleaned from others on this issue: 1. Use Only SUBARU OEM re designed HGs 2. Do the timing belt stuff when you do the HGs Timing Belt, Tensioners, Idlers, Water Pump, Cam & Crank Seals, SUBARU Thermostat, Reseal Oil Pump Don't forget the valve adjustment too.

Arty, Where do you get your Subies fixed in the Cincy area? I'm looking for a good independent shop that has lots of Subaru experience in the Chilitown area!

thanks for the tip! I need to drive mine for a couple of weeks til cash/engine/shop workload all align! I have been doing the turkey baster thing for a while now (from overflow tank to rad) so this will help.

Does the current owner have any maintenance records? at 200k its nearing its second TB change with all the other "while your in there" stuff. Have the HGs been replaced?

1. Have your mechanic do the combustion gases in coolant test. It can either be a $50 chemical test or they can use a gas analyzer if they have one. If it does not pass, its most likely the HGs. 2. I've gone through this exact issue and it turns out that CCR engines has the most complete rebuilt engine. If you can find an used one or a JDM engine you would want to do a bunch of work on it before you install it (HGs, Water Pump, Front Seals, Timing Belt, Tensioner, Idlers, etc). After I priced that all out it was a better deal to get a rebuilt from CCR engines in Denver. They specialize in Subaru engines only. http://www.ccrengines.com it would seem that at 120k you could do the headgasket replacement (with the usual "while you are in there" stuff). Will your mechanic do that job? Thats my $0.02.

I got one from Pep Boys and it was about 1" shorter than the one I removed. Had to make some adjustments to get it to fit. Would recommend checking radiator.com and getting them to help, they have a tech who can answer your questions and get the correct rad. Helpful to have old rad P/N and tape measure handy to make sure you get the correct one.

If you really want to discuss oil, Bob the Oil Guy is the place to go. I've heard that Subies tend to not be that partial to synthetics, but I don't have any evidence or data to support that statement. I'm sure others will chime in on how good it is for their car. Your car, your choice. My owners manual on my 99 says to use 5W30 and 5W40 if temps are hot. I accidentally used 10W30 once and really noticed a difference. Lots of clacking for longer after start up. You could use a 0W30 weight oil for the winter in cold climates but that would probably be a synthetic. May want to check it more frequently. Minimum once per month oil check, weekly is better. There have been a number of posters recently that said they needed new engines after they ran the oil dry. Driving 101 is to make sure your car is ready to go, fluid, tire and lights checks frequently. Its much cheaper than a new engine!

Currently going through this exact issue. With engine cold remove rad cap and check level. If its low, do the chemical test for combustion gasses in coolant. If it passes that do rad cap and thermostat. If it doesn't pass, its most likely the HG (Phase I engine). At that mileage you may want to decide what to do, engine R&R or new car. Good Luck!

Could also be the contacts in the solenoid? Look here: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20784&highlight=solenoid

GD, Thanks for the option. May have to look into that if it doesn't get too complicated. Will ask shop to price that option. I'm not generally inclined to do mods (I'm old and boring) but it sounds like a better price for the engine. Not sure what the other costs would be or how they would add up. If I could do this myself (need time, tools and place to work) I would seriously consider going that route, or just fixing it myself!

I posted this on another board and didn't get much response other than a good one from Nipper. I have a 99 OBW with a 2.5L DOHC that needs HGs its got 233k miles on it. I like the car and figure that repairs are better than $500/mo for 60 months for a new car! My question is regarding what options make the most sense for this engine/car. It hasn't overheated and currently transfers coolant from rad to overflow tank. New Subaru Rad cap and thermostat. Option 1: fix headgaskets/replace "while your in there" parts + head checks. Nipper suggested since engine is over 160k to consider replacing short block. Option 2: used engine+HG+while your in there parts. Found a 41k mi used engine for $2k delivered Option 3: rebuilt long block (bare $1700) + while your in there parts Option 4: CCR engine $3500 + install I don't have the tools/equipment/space to do the job myself but have found a local non-dealer who has Subaru experience. Any opinions? I plan to keep the car for at least 5yrs. Its got new tires, brakes, rad, hoses, brakes and battery. Thanks!

Josh, Thanks for doing the neighborly thing! Too bad you didn't live closer to me or I would come and help you with that head gasket and you could help me with mine!

Dan, There are many threads on changing head gaskets. I would recommend checking prices at on-line Subaru dealers as the parts are often cheaper than the walk up price at your local dealer. If you get a trade discount at your dealer then go with that. Since the car is around 13 yrs old and has been sitting for a while you may want to consider changing the following parts while you have the engine out as you have access and you are there anyway: Timing Belt TB Idler and Tensioner Pulleys Water Pump Subaru Thermostat Camshaft and Fwd Crank Seals Reseal the Oil Pump Oil Separator Cover Spark Plugs (NGK) and OEM Spark Plug Wires Accessory Belts (Alternator/AC) Have the heads checked for flatness, valve leak down test and change valve stem seals. I would get an engine seal kit as it will have most of what you need. Check prices on seals individually though. Take a good look at the hoses in the engine compartment and replace any that are hard. Vacuum hoses too. Since you are there PCV valve and Subaru Rad Cap too. For driveability you may need to change brakes and tires. You can check that as you see fit. There may be things that I have forgotten but hopefully others will chime in. Good luck!

Can't seem to find the led thread? But I ordered the NEO-3 LEDs from superbrightleds.com in green for the rest of the switches. I also ordered the one Long (72351AC051) bulb and two short (72351AC061) bulbs from an online Subaru dealer (with some other stuff I needed) for the HVAC controls. Some of the many, many threads on various Subaru forums that deal with these lights (Gen II 95-99) seem to say that the LEDs in the HVAC seem to be prone to spotting or pooling of the lights. Waiting for warmer weather (and kids hockey season to be over) so I will have time and a non-freezing garage to work in to do this job.