Mike104

Thought I linked to the customer service info, but it just shows FAQs with no contact info? Sorry.

Read this: http://www.onstar.com/us_english/jsp/explore/onstar_basics/helpful_info.jsp?info-view=tech_equip Looks like 2003 H6 Outbacks got analog OnStar equipment: http://www.drive.subaru.com/Sum03_OnStar.htm If you would like more specific information for OnStar-equipped vehicles manufactured by our other vehicle partners, please contact them directly. The Customer Care phone numbers are listed below: Acura 800-382-2238 Audi 800-822-2834 Isuzu 800-255-6727 Subaru 800-782-2783

If you don't get a response from any Subaru owners that may have OnStar, try here: http://www.onstar.com/us_english/jsp/contact_us/index.jsp

The number the dealer gave you matches what I found here: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=11690 Its the bearing and three seals. Would the dealer ship to an APO? Hard to figure out from other non OEM sites what specifically you need as they talk about seals and bearings and not too clearly. Some suggest changing the wheel hubs when you change the bearings.

Have you eliminated the combustion gases in the coolant? This step is vital to confirm or rule out a suspected HG leak. You can use either a chemical test or an electronic gas analyzer. Leaking of combustion gases into the coolant system can cause the coolant to flow into the overflow tank. Cool air from the heater when the engine is hot is an indication that there is either low coolant level (can be caused by an air bubble in cooling system) or the heater core is blocked. Since you have ruled out the rad cap, those would be my next two steps.

2.2L are not noted for bad head gaskets but any engine "can" have a blown head gasket. Rad cap is cheap solution. If that doesn't work do the chemical test for combustion gases in the coolant. At 246k miles the water pump could also be the culprit and or a clogged heater core (or is that just the 2.5L?). Try the simple stuff first. Rad cap, combustion gas test (in that order). If you add the block sealer, disconnect the hoses from your heater core and connect them with a fitting to prevent the heater core from getting clogged. You can reconnect them after the sealer has been run through for a day or so.

Flashing AT Light = codes stored in TCU. Loss of speed sensor (OPs case) can cause vehicle to go into limp mode that can result in bad performance and poor fuel economy. Best to get the codes from TCU (there is a post somewhere here on how to get the codes from the TCU but it may be for newer models?).

One way to confirm the heater core is bad is to disconnect the two hoses from the heater core and connect them together with a hose fitting as a temporary test. If the car doesn't overheat after doing this then you know the culprit.

You can always try here: http://www.car-part.com/ to see if you can find one locally or have it shipped to you

Does any of this help: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html

Have to agree with the advice above. Fix current engine correctly and should get another 100k out of it (assuming it hasn't been severely overheated?). There are lots of threads here on what correctly means. Do it right (check heads for warping/machine if needed, Timing Belt/Idlers/Tensioner/Seals, Water Pump, Themostat-OEM only, Subaru HGs -redesigned) and it should last. Cheap out and you will have to do it again. I have read that the EJ22 swap is relatively easy and is preferred by some rather than fixing 2.5L engine.

Here is a homemade version of the Subaru tool (actually made by Kent Moore Tools). Page 8 http://www.designlabx.com/subaru/abs/wheelbearing.pdf Some have said they used this HF tool to do the job: and this one to put the seals in: The Subaru Endwrench article talks about "excessive" forces from hydraulic presses during bearing removal/installation and thats why the new tool was developed. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/WheelBearing.pdf Some autoparts stores will rent the tools out as well.

Do you mean "head gasket"?

Vic, That is useful information. I have seen various suppliers for the components when perusing the various online parts suppliers. Often there is a significant price difference between various manufacturers. Now I know which ones to pick to get OEM mfg'd supplier units. Thanks

Here is some info on the new gasket for 2010 2.5L Outback models: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-changed-there-head-gasket-for-the-2010-25l/ Apparently its not backward compatible with the earlier engines Here is some more info on the open deck vs semi open deck blocks: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-changed-there-head-gasket-for-the-2010-25l/

Here is one report of oil leaking on the 2005 Forester (same engine): http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23228 As the previous poster said, its a bit too early to say, but I think its not as bad as the 95-99 2.5L Phase I engines or the 2000-2004 Phase II engines. IMO YMMV

I found this on a Miata forum with similar crankshaft keyway issues: http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/Softtop.htm Just an idea

This thread shows two examples of why it is good to change your timing belt idler pulleys when replacing the timing belt. Yeah you might save a few $$ when changing the timing belt by not changing them but if they fail before you change the timing belt again, you will spend even more $$$$.

94 that was a picture that I "borrowed" from another post, only one I could find! that gave an idea of where the ECTS and Temp Sender were. Not quiet as buried as the Knock Sensor, but almost! I was thinking of his other Subaru that we had discussed earlier. Can't keep my Subaru's straight!

That would be interesting info, the supplier P/N's for the Subaru P/N's. We know that Subaru does not manufacture the idlers and tensioners but issues a spec and picks a manufacturer to supply them. Of course then there is the discussion of whether or not the OEM manufacturer supplies exactly the same part (spec wise) as the part supplied to the car manufacturer? I would expect that they would only make one design/build of the part and perhaps supply ones outside of the spec tolerances to the aftermarket. In some cases they may be prohibited from selling "Subaru" spec parts in the aftermarket. Sounds like a great topic for a Master's thesis in a business degree!

Downside to the US online sources is many won't ship to Canada and if they do shipping costs/customs brokerage fees usually kill the deal. Online the Subaru parts are generally in the $50+ each range. There was a post on here about timing parts/gaskets and there were varying opinions. I think one poster used Idlers & Tensioners from theimportexperts.com (Subaru P/N's). Ebay kits are another option but some say they are good, some say bad. YMMV.

If I recall correctly, there are two sensors on the 2.5L one for the ECU and one for the temp guage. There was a photo somewhere? But both of those sensors are in the water pipe that is under the intake manifold. Hard to see but they are there. The brown thing is the ECTS and I think the blue one is the temp guage sender? Here is a link to the parts catalog that gives an idea of where they are: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_45/cooling_system/water_pipe_1/

I would rule out HG leak with combustion gas tester first. If passes, change temp sensor like suggested earlier. If fails, HG time. No sense spending lots of $$ and time to do a job that won't fix your problem.

The gasket has been changed a number of times since your engine was made. This guy says he has a better mousetrap (HG): http://allwheeldriveauto.com/a-better-subaru-25l-head-gasket-in-seattle/ Subaru did also introduce a new gasket for the 2010 2.5L Outback. This is a good video that explains the issues: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-change/

http://www.automotivetoolsonline.com/L75500-Combustion-Leak-Detector-Lisle-75500_p_11975.html