Mike104

According to cars101.com the 2005 OBW used a Brilliant Silver metallic with Granite Gray Opal accent color. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2007.html (scroll down to almost the bottom of the page) According to this site: http://www.tcpglobal.com/autocolorlibrary/aclchip.aspx?image=2005-subaru-pg01.jpg The color code for Granite Gray Opal Accent is 35S. Just about every where says that the color code is on the VIN plate near the drivers strut tower. IIRC because you have a two tone paint scheme the paint code will be 3 characters that will need to be decoded to get the base and trim colors.

Make sure they only use Subaru OEM Head Gaskets. Its NGK plugs and most suggest only Subaru OEM wires. Cheap aftermarket ones have been reported to give problems. Not sure how to add signature.

There was a thread a while back about some one who could not move car fwd and back and it was CV joints that had let go. If is is an AT car you may not want to put aftermarket axles in from Pepboys or Autozone as some have reported vibration issues in drive when stopped if using non-Subaru or other quality axle suppliers. Best way might be to get the car on a lift and with the engine idling (and wheels off the ground) see if they all spin when in fwd or drive. If its an auto trans, maybe check the fluid quantity. Ask her if she had the oil changed since you drove it. Some have reported that quick lube places have drained the transmission fluid and then put more oil in the crank case. I would lean more towards having you go and fix it rather than her getting taken by some questionable repair place.

Try here http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/18175-replacing-lights-instrumet-cluster.html

1999

Get a kit like this http://www.etooldirect.com/u-view-gas-and-diesel-combustion-leak-testing-kit.html?source=googleps NAPA has a similar one or you can order online. Essentially you run the engine and draw air from your radiator through the test fluid. If it turns yellow, HGs likely bad. My 2.5L made it to 236k before needed HGs but I think its a rare case. Has rebuilt CCR engine in it now. Hopefully good for another 100k. By engine light I am guessing you mean the Check Engine Light? Bad HGs doesn't usually post an error code. Best bet is to get the fault code (P0XXX) from the auto parts store (the will read the code for free) and come back here with the code number

Here is a link to a thread that gives lots of info on the original and the new Multi Layer Steel (MLS) http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/ Good Luck

I have heard that FelPro HGs don't work that well in Subaru's and you will probably have to replace them again soon. Good Luck! http://allwheeldriveauto.com/the-wrong-subaru-head-gaskets-in-seattle/ As to the OPs question I believe that the current design is 4 layer MLS, or maybe that's the new gasket that won't fit on the older Subaru's? but I can't seem to find that link. http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/ A 3 layer MLS means the HGs have been replaced and many have said that if the HGs are replaced properly and the engine did not overheat significantly, the replacements can last considerably longer than the original style. Good find

CEL is the reason the Cruise won't engage. As everyone else has said go to a parts store and get the code read. Have them write the code down (PXXXX) and come back here with the number so we can help. It may be a simple as the gas cap wasn't on tight enough.

Think it might be a # 74 bulb? According to this link http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/80-electrical-electronics/15385-my-prndl-supposed-light-up.html the AT shifter doesn't have a light as the position is on the instrument cluster. Here is a thread from a Forester, but it may not be the same as your vehicle http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f85/shifter-light-fix-726/ says # 37 bulb. Here is another one that may be closer to yours http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f85/replacing-sg-shift-light-4eat-pictures-28595/

Here is some info on the Subaru filters Link Seems most folks preferred the black one (P/N 15208AA100) as mentioned by WJM but it is difficult if not impossible to find. I've not used this one but he claims they are similar to the original non-Turbo Oil filter http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-oil-filters-for-sale/ This place has some of the 15208AA100 filters but they are spendy http://store.ncrally.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=191_136_148_471&products_id=129&osCsid=b33bd3c5d1 If you really have nothing to do you can read this thread about Subaru Oil filters http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/18231-wisdom-using-oem-oil-filters-only.html

The lateral link bolt is the one that often is a PITA. Some have used lots of PB blaster some the blue wrench (torch) and some pullers. Might be a good idea to get a new one on hand to put back in with some anti-seize. There used to be an endwrench article on using the hub shark like system to replace the bearings on the car but I can't seem to find it now. I know the tool is around $500? to buy. Some have been able to rent them from auto parts stores and some have used this set from Harbor Freight on fronts and rears with success: Link

My vote would also be to keep the 2.2L If you want to put in a 2.5L might as well go this route link

I don't know my PNW geography very well but this place has one shop in Shoreline and Mukilito, WA http://www.smart-service.com/index.html If Kirkland, WA is near, there is this location: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/ I don't have any experience with either shop, but they do have good reviews. I would expect that taking it to GD would probably be a lower cost than either of the ones mentioned above.

Here is one way: http://www.scoobymods.com/heated-mirror-install-oem-way-t7317.html?t=7317&highlight=heated+mirror Here is another one: http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=16810&hilit=heated+mirror Heated Mirrors are great for those of us that live where it freezes

+1 on what Larry said. Use a Subaru Transmission filter http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/23762-subaru-transmission-filter-different.html Some have used Valvoline MaxLife ATF and a quart of Trans-X in their 95-99 4EAT with good results.

I've heard of others who went through a number of rebuilt units and did not get a good one until they bought a Subaru reman. http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Legacy&subcat=Engine+Parts%2C+Alternator&year=1995 $125+shipping

short block should essentially be the same, swap heads and intake/exhaust you should be good to go. There are some difference between the crankshaft/camshaft sensors as some use a different number of keys. Just make sure everything looks the same on the crank and cam shaft sprockets. There are some threads on here about doing that change over.

2.2L swap is the lowest cost option. I have a similar car and went through the same decision last year. I opted for the most expensive solution (worked for me) but based on what your situation is I would agree that the engine needs to be replaced and a 2.2L swap will likely cost the least. Best to replace the timing belt, Idlers, tensioner, oil seals, reseal oil pump, valve cover gaskets and rear oil separator plate before you put it in and you should be good to go for quite a while. Show your daughter how to check the oil, coolant and other fluids and tell her how important it is to do this regularly. Buying a different car can just bring more problems. Sounds like the one she has now has a known history. You could check http://www.car-part.com for a local 2.2L engine. Perhaps one of the members in CA can chime in with a suggestion as to where to get the engine

This one is $80 from HF: http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html Someone on here has said they have used it to change wheel bearings successfully on Subaru's. Try Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts to rent one.

Do these instructions help: Nut: http://www.antennamastsrus.com/Nut%20Removal.htm Mast: http://www.antennamastsrus.com/Instructions%20Mast.htm

Gee, didn't I say that in post #8? and someone else mentioned it in post #24 and gary above. Is a good way to rule out HGs

I'd agree with just rebooting the axle. I paid to have mine done at the dealer (no time, no tools, no area to work and too old and out of shape to do it myself) and it was $335 for both. Dealer charge for boots was $11 each (x 2) + $23 for grease so mostly labor (they billed 3hrs total). If you have the time/tools I would do it yourself. I'm sure they used the remove from hub process and it actually took less than 3 hrs but that's how flat rate works. I'm sure it would have taken me at least a whole day and maybe a weekend to do it, so I am happy having paid someone to do it.

I liked your How to Thread as well. Your experience is generally how my car maintenance items run. Just a simple job turns into a learning experience. Hopefully you will remember what you learned for the next time. Thanks for taking the time to post photos and your experience. It may save someone else some grief!

Here is a photo diy. http://beergarage.com/SubyOPump.aspx Some have said he used too much sealant on the oil pump. If you look on your engine block just behind your alternator there is a mark in the engine casting that says either EJ22 or EJ25. You may need a flashlight to see it.