Mike104

Head gaskets

The 02 cheater really only fixes an overly sensitive system. Its the front O2 that controls the fuel mixture. Its your car, I'm sure one car won't kill the environment

Agree with GD. I had a similar problem with my 4EAT (going into and out of Torque Converter Lock Up at cruise). I eventually got a Check Engine Light and a P0710 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit fault code. I had the internal wire harness (and all the attached sensors) replaced and it fixed the problem.

While not as good as someone who has actually done the part interchange being asked about, one source of info is the opposed forces website. I usually find the part number for my car and then click on the part number and it gives a list of the cars that the part number was used on. For example for a 98 Forester it give P/N 28411AA010 for the rear left knuckle. If you click on the part number it gives you this page: http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/28411AA010/ and you can open the list for the car you are thinking of getting the part from and see if it was used on your car.

There is plug that pushes into the cap/panel that can be pried out with a screwdriver (or fancy trim tool, if you have one). That will let you take off the plastic cap that covers the top of the strut.

Advance Auto only lists Beck/Arnley PB Shoes. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Emergency-Brake-Shoes-Beck-Arnley_10001654-P_352_R|GRPBRCOAMS_____ If you select Parking Brake Shoes on AutoZone website it gives Duralast 794 http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1997-Subaru-Legacy/Parking-Brake-Shoe/_/N-j9fnqZ8knyn

If the CEL is on best get to an Auto Parts store and have them read the PXXXX code and bring that code here to help us solve the problem. The brake light issue has been addressed in other posts. And find someone else other than that dealer to work on her car.

Shawn, Thanks for posting this it is a real good explanation of how to fix the issue (assuming its not the driver) and is important to know. I had dismissed purchasing a 2005-2008 Subaru based on the reported "ghost walking" issue. Now that a solution that can be used is know, may add a few other cars to my replace list when the time comes to replace my '99.

since the valve seals have been replaced it is likely that the condition that Ivan mentioned is likely best solved by GD's solution. I know it sounds extreme but based on the labor cost to go into the engine, it is generally cheaper to remove and replace it rather than try and fix it for most people. I think someone else mentioned a rebuild kit for $471 in another post. Then you would have to pay the labor/material costs to rebuild the engine, then pay to R&R it. Sounds like the cheapest way is to drop in a used 2.2L.

Thanks for the update. This is on my to do list and glad to know that it worked for someone>

If its the VSS there should be a check engine light and code? The VSS codes are P0500, P0502 or P0503? It could be multiple problems. Its more of a "if the cruise works its the speedo situation" and its only valid for the '99 that has a known problem with the speedometer as this was a response to the OPs post. I'm not that versed on the manual transmission configuration but believe that they (Auto or Manual) transmissions have different number of speed sensors.

For the '99 the best way to check if its the speedo or speed sensor is to engage the cruise control when the speedo is not working. If the cruise works, the speed sensor is ok. There is a soldering fix that has been reported to fix the issue: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=116202&highlight=speedo

Cruise and Traction Lights are because the Check Engine light came on. Take it to a chain auto parts store (Advance Auto, NAPA, Pep Boys, etc) and ask them to read the code for you. Bring the PXXXX code back here and we will help get it fixed. Most chain auto parts stores will read the codes for free.

Think you want to look for the green pair of connectors: http://codes.rennacs.com/photo-gallery/SUBARU-EFI-01-CHOICE-Photos.php

Yeah, I have heard lots of horror stories about AAMCO. They rebuilt my transmission on my Dodge Caravan. They stupidly offered me a lifetime warranty, no mileage restrictions. Foolishly I bought it. After they had rebuilt the transmission 3 times on their dime (over the next 5 yrs) I figure I got my $500 worth. Some (from Ford Exploder board) have suggested using a shop that is part of ATRA: http://www.atra.com/ I have no experience with these shops but agree that a used one is probably the best option.

I use Valvoline Synthetic 5W30 on mine with Subaru Filters (got a good deal). I recently found some Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic (was at local discount store local auto places did not have it) to use on my 2004 Ford Exploder. I'm surprised that engine made it past 100k without a skipped timing chain or head gasket. The race is on to see if the transmission or engine dies first on that POS.

Dave = PM sent Gary = You are right. Even if I have to buy three used ones, I'm still ahead financially than buying a new one. Thanks for the help.

Looks like its called Checker assembly-front door, 62302FC002 (Item 11) http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_30/body_equipment_exterior/front_door_panel_and_rear_slide_door_panel/illustration_1/ Looks like it requires entry into the door to replace the assembly

My Climate Control panel on my '99 OBW will work sometimes (selector lights and buttons). I have taken it apart and sprayed it with contact cleaner a number of times. Sometimes the indicator lights work and sometimes the lights and buttons do not work. I did get the background lighting replaced but am questioning getting a used one. They vary from $20-$40 used (on eBay) but cost over $200 from Subaru. Has anyone had any luck purchasing used ones? The $40 is "tested" and comes with a 30 day warranty and includes shipping. I'm a bit hesitant to pay over $200 for a new one on a 12 yr old car. I generally leave it at Defrost/Feet for winter and dash vents for summer, but would like to be able to change it as needed during the spring/fall seasons.

On my '99 FSM it shows the relay for the rear defrost on the Fuse Block inside the car. Next to the Tail Illumination and Main Fan relay. There is also a Defog Timer in the circuit (no idea where that is actually located though).

Yeah its pretty easy. Two bolts on the water pump (attached to lower rad hose) and pull it out. It will drain all of the coolant so be prepared for that. Make sure you use a Thermostat from a Subaru dealer and you "burp" all of the air out of the cooling system. May also want to change the rad cap while you are at it. I think your car needs the Subaru Coolant conditioner (less than $2 from Subaru dealer) added to radiator? May help with external coolant leaks.

That will be me once the light in the clock goes out!

My experience as well. Think the bulbs were less than $3 each and I only needed two. Just added them to an order for other stuff. If you are able to replace the bulbs with the RS ones that's great! For those of use that want to take the easy way out, that's our choice.

Just replace it. You could try and disconnect/reconnect it but its probably shot. When you get the code the ECU sets the timing to a less than optimal setting to prevent knock thus giving you poor gas mileage.

Here is a link to a Subaru article on changing the rear bearings using a "Hub Shark" type system. Some have used the HF "Front Wheel Bearing Tool". http://www.pdfdocspace.com/docs/62612/subaru-wheel-bearing-replacement.html I have no doubt that the disc setup could be retrofitted but don't have any specifics of what would be needed.