Mike104

I think if you turn the key from Lock to On three times in quick succession it will start on the fourth try and silence the alarm?

To check for part numbers use http://opposedforces.com/parts

Test drive success!! Drove on the highway for a few exits making several lane changes and no shake and shimmy!! I love when a DIY fix works!

Some us that have put their heads under the dash and see the two green connectors disconnected think that they must be put together! A big surprise when you turn the key on! I guess like the "virgin switch" (switch on top of the steering column to turn the parking lights on) some of us go down that path eventually.

Posted this the other day on another post: "I have a similar issue (shaking from side to side) on my 03 Forester and it is related to the rear lateral link bolt/knuckle interface. If you lift the wheel you can move the wheel sideways and see the aft end of the knuckle move around the lateral link bolt." Finally got around to fixing it the last few days. I knew the Knuckle was likely toast (Lateral Link bolt holes were egg shaped) so I bit the bullet and bought a new knuckle, bearing, hub, brake backing plate, seals, and of course the Lateral Link Bolt/Nut Washers/Bushings all from Subaru). I used a cut off disk to cut through the Lateral Link bolt and a propane torch to burn out the Lateral Link Bushings. Used a nut and bolt to pull in the new lateral link bushings after applying some silicone lubricant. Having read a number of posts over the years about how difficult the lateral link bolt/bushings were to get out I decided to bite the bullet and get all new stuff. Was not the cheapest way to get the job done but I know that it was done right with quality parts. The thing that helped was buying a wheel bearing from Subaru. The new ones have a bit of a reduction in the middle of the bearing making it easier to install. The cheap Chinese bearings do not have that feature. Chinese Ones Subaru Style I used my Harbor Freight bearing kit to install the new bearing and hub. Worked like a charm.

I have a similar issue (shaking from side to side) on my 03 Forester and it is related to the rear lateral link bolt/knuckle interface. If you lift the wheel you can move the wheel sideways and see the aft end of the knuckle move around the lateral link bolt. Yours could be a bad wheel bearing so definitely check that out (jack the front wheels up and see if the wheel can move) there should be little play. Could also be something else that more experienced members may diagnose but checking the wheel bearings may not be a bad idea.

I took mine off when I got my 03 Forester. Most of the hardware was missing and it weight another 5 pounds from all the oil soaked into the matting.

I meant move the seat not remove the seat. In my 03 Forester I have gotten the airbag light after adjusting the seat forward or back

Two green connectors are diagnostic connectors that flash everything are under drivers side knee. I had mine on that was the front seat connector that everytime I move the seat the airbag light would come on. Disconnected the connector and reconnected it and airbag light went out. Assuming you moved the passenger seat to change the heater core maybe take a look at that one

What year/model is your car? Some of the Clarion units had issues.

Sounds like Subaru needs to consider adding a "Low Oil Level" idiot light like as some other manufacturers have since many seem to not want to check the oil. I'm old school so I check my oil frequently. Not every time I get gas but certainly once a month at least and before going on any long trips.

Thanks for letting us know what the problem was. And hey we have all made mistakes!

There is a spring that rotates a lever that pushes up on the latch part attached to the hood. When you pull the hood latch the spring is now free to rotate and the lever pushes up on the part of the latch that is on the hood. As mentioned above the area needs to be cleaned (brake cleaner is good) then use some PB blaster to remove any rust then lube it well with white lithium grease. Check out this page for some photos http://beergarage.com/SubyHoodLatch.aspx

The headlights don't have to come off. There is a piece of rubber seal between the lights and grille that gets hard and sometimes prevents it from going back in.

Timing marks aligned?

Been driving for a few days now. Got a check engine light and it was a P0420. Advice from knowledgeable members here was to put an OEM cat in. I know that is the best option but it's a $1200 part. Did the spark plug anti fouler trick on the rear O2 sensor a couple of days ago and hopefully that will fix it. Idles smooth as butter and not really noticing any power loss. With the manual transmission I shift at 4k RPM when accelerating on to the freeway. Shift at 3k when on local streets. Next project is a left rear knuckle replacement as the aft end (where the dreaded Lateral Link bolt goes) is worn and the wheel moves slightly when jacked. (you can see the knuckle movement around the bolt). I tried various online sites and local pull and pay yards and decided that with my son's discount using new Subaru parts was almost as cheap as getting a used part in dubious condition. I know the lateral link bolt and bushings will probably be sacrificed to replace the knuckle so just bought new parts to install them instead of fighting with them like others have reported.

Push HARD. Apply some grease to the ball end and push down hard

Drain and refill two or three times (driving a few hundred miles between drains). I like Valvoline MaxLife ATF. Solved a harsh shift problem in my 99 OBW. I also had a similar issue (no Torque Converter Lockup) that ended up being the ATF Temperature Sensor. They had to replace the Transmission wiring harness inside the transmission. Was not a cheap fix!

I wished I lived in Portland and could take my Subie's to GD. Didn't someone say earlier that the shop was troubleshooting via VISA?

Your local Mom and Pop (not chain owned) exhaust shop or a custom exhaust shop should have access to these types of repair flanges https://theflangeman.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=FX1748

Do you have EyeSight system installed?

Thanks. I am not planning on owning this car for another 200k so I am ok with installing something a bit cheaper (you get what you pay for). Forgot to mention it already has one Spark Plug Anti Fouler at the rear O2 sensor

Anyone have any thoughts on best catalytic converter options? Walker Davico Eastern Catalytic Bosal 2003 Forester X I checked with the temp guage and there is only a 50 degree difference between front and back temps.

Had a chance to look at the short block internals today on the removed engine and the #3 connecting rod to crankshaft bearing was shot. Could move the connecting rod about 1/8". I guess that explains the Oil Pressure light on at idle (when at operating temperature) and the loud knocking sound! Spent today fixing a few minor leaks, hopefully that will be the last issue before I start driving.

Wow!!!