Mike104

Big issue is reseating the torque converter. Often it seems like it is installed far enough and people try to use the bolts to pull the last quarter inch and end up breaking the pump resulting in an inoperable transmission. There are some good videos/posts on this on the internet (see wtdash post above)

Interesting read. I had a bad 4EAT transmission a couple of years ago and I struggled with the rebuild/replace decision. I opted for a used transmission and had a local shop swap it out. For me it was the best choice at the time. Now that my son works at a Subaru dealer I would have him install a used transmission!

Glad to hear they treated you right. Dealers vary widely. For non warranty work an independent Subaru specialist is generally the best choice. Sadly they are few and far between.

So after a few delays (mostly getting the head reworked to address the dropped valve guide) got everything put back together and installed. Primed the fuel and oil systems and it started right up! Runs great and no check engine light!! I took the time (since I had lots) to clean/paint some of the parts as well as change a few fasteners that were corroded and rounded over. All in all a fairly easy swap (intake manifold swap makes it much easier). Also swapped over the timing gears and crank/camshaft sensors. I put on a larger oil pump as well since the ebay seller said it was required. Only issue is the power steering pump hollow bolt that connects the line to the pump outlet is leaking . Will have to source a new sealing washer from Subaru ($1.00 part)

A bad run of luck. The EJ25D (used in the older engines) was known for bad head gaskets leaking internally causing bubbling in the overflow tank. The newer EJ25 SOHC engines generally had issues with external leaks (oil and/or coolant). I suspect another issue other than the engine. Has the radiator/thermostat (OEM) been replaced as part of the engine replacement?

If only the rest of us lived close enough to great independent Subaru specialists. Around here if you don't take it to the dealer you will get someone who knows little about Subaru's and if you are lucky they won't f*** up your car too bad! If you take it to the dealer your wallet will feel it and hopefully will get a tech that cares.

Best to spend a bit more and get a quality part. Yes parts from Subaru cost more than Advance Auto/AutoZone/O'Reilly's but generally will be a quality part. There are other non Subaru high quality options for those that have more experience/knowledge but for me getting a Subaru OEM part is the best option. Other than going to the retail source and using the warranty (another POS part) there isn't really much you can do.

I got to 216k on my head gaskets in my 99 OBW 2.5L definitely an outlier. I was second owner and know they were not replaced previously. I had a reman engine put in and so far it has lasted to 475k. Had I known then what I know now I probably would have gone a different route. But at the time I thought is was the best option for me.

I have a 99 Subaru with over 475k on it. Yes I have replaced the engine and transmission but all costs in way less than buying a new car. Assume a $500/mo car payment and the maintenance costs you stated is about 4 months of car payments.

That is exactly how it should be. There will be a point where the drivers side cam gear will stay in position (marks on gear and notch aligned)

Basically dealer mechs are parts changers. There are likely some that have more experience but likely don't get much opportunity to do anything other than change parts on customers cars. What they do in their spare time may be different.

I did finally find a non-dealer Subaru tech near me, but now I have one that lives in my house! Still wish I lived near one of the few Subie gurus on here.

Advance Auto also has access to WorldPac parts. That was part of the Carquest purchase by Advance Auto. You have to ask though as otherwise you get the cheap Chinese junk from Advance/AutoZone/O'Reillys

Best option is to take the mechanic with you for a drive to replicate the issue.

Felpro or Subaru Gaskets? If I recall that engine could have one of two part numbers, It may be that the valve cover was replaced at some point.

Not much better than GMB.

Thanks for the input GD, as I didn't know the significance of the cooling passage size, I stuck with what was in there. the 483 gasket is also an MLS one like the 770

My son works at a Subaru dealer and if they have to fix an engine under warranty for oil consumption they replace the short block. I'm not sure many dealers would want to bother with replacing rings especially under warranty.

I second the JDM replacement vs repair. Labor to R&R the transmission is usually going to be charged plus labor to fix your transmission (depending on what the issue is). I had an AT Fluid Temp sensor go bad (would drop in and out of Torque Converter Lockup while driving). They fixed it and then about a year later had to R&R the transmission for another issue. The cost of the repair equaled the used transmission purchase price. Mine had around 250k when the repair was done.

I have 215/60/16 on my 03 Forester. According to this site: https://tiresize.com/height-chart/ The 215/60/16 tires are 26 inches in diameter The 215/70/16 tires are 27 inches in diameter

So a bit of an update. Not impressed with my choice of JDM supplier (jdmenginedep0t). Engine supplied was shrink wrapped but had significant corrosion on the exterior of the block, nothing like the shining example photo. Listing was for Non-EGR engine but received an EGR engine. During prep to clean gasket surfaces noticed one of the valve guides had dropped. Bit the bullet and removed that head to be sent out to shop that the Subaru dealer uses for a complete valve job. The valve covers were both broken as well as the intake manifold. Not really a big issue as all the stuff from my removed 2.5L moved over. Have spent way too much time making it look pretty. I would recommend that you read the compete description provided for the eBay listing or avoid eBay all together and use a different supplier. The fine print on the eBay listing essentially absolved them of any issue other than no start.

I'm in the middle of a 2.5L to 2.0L swap and the 2.0L JDM engine uses a 482 (superseded by 483) head gasket. Main difference from the 770 gasket is the cooling cutouts on the 770 are smaller. I don't know the significance of that change so decided to use the 11044AA483 from the Subaru Dealer (get cost + 10% as son is employee).

EGR Port Plug. So looked for ideas to plug the EGR port on the head (manual transmission vehicle does not have EGR). Various posts lead to different sizes. Tried and true method, measure and used thread guage. M20 x 1.5 on my JDM 2.0L engine. Same size as Oil drain plug! Easy fix!

PCV Fitting? 2.5L engine has the PCV threaded into a fitting on the block. The 2.0L engine has a hose pressed over a straight fitting into the block. Anyone ever been able to remove the fittings threaded into the block? Otherwise I guess a bit of MacGuyvering with hoses/etc may need to be done

the 30x codes are sparkplugs and wires (NGK plugs OE wires), 0172 is Air Intake Too high (sensor) 1127 is Air Fuel Sensor (Subaru Part only) 0457 is Evaporative Systems code. none of those should be a big concern except the plugs/wires None of that should be a cause to junk the car. Find an independant Subaru specialist