Mike104

I got ones from KYB that matched my KYB Struts. Forget where I purchased them.

I got ones from KYB that matched my KYB Struts.

Yeah, get the code for the CEL from an auto parts store. Make sure you get the PXXXX code not what the clerk says is the problem. Post the code here and you will get lots of free help. Dealers are probably not the best to deal with a 2.5 to 2.2 swap, independent Subaru shops would be a better choice, especially those that do that often.

With no service records and 115k I would price the cost of a Full TB Job (belt, tensioner, idlers, cam & crank seals, water pump, reseal oil pump) into the price. If there are no records that it hasn't been done, expect that it wasn't. Of course the dealer mechanic says it looks ok, they don't want to change it. When the belt breaks after you drive the car off the lot they will let you pay for the valve job + all the timing belt stuff. Go to cars101.com to get the full scoop on the differences between a Forester and an Outback. Outback is a wagon and the Forester is a mini SUV based on the Impreza platform.

Most parts places will do a load test on your battery. Might also be a bad alternator.

For my '99 the Black wire is the ground at all four locations. White/Red is Turn Signal for Right Side (Front & Rear) Light Green/White is Turn Signal for Left Side (Front & Rear) Looks like Red is the color for the tail lights/parking lights White/Black is for the Stop Lights power and Black for ground Yours may vary slightly.

Here is a photo of the area courtesy of Beergarage.com that shows the plastic oil separator plate and the leak. The access plate o-ring that fairtax mentioned is to the left of the main seal and its a good time to change that now as well. Leave the main seal alone unless its really leaking.

Oil leaks on Subaru's tend to all deposit themselves onto the exhaust that may be causing the blue smoke and be a reason why there isn't a leak onto the ground. One other thing to check is the PCV valve as it can cause oil to be pushed out of certain areas. The areas mentioned above are other very likely possibilities causing leaks.

MAKE SURE THE SPRING IS COMPRESSED AND SECURED WITH APPROPRIATE TOOLS!!!!!! I used one of these pass through ratchet sets with an allen key to hold the strut: The suggestion to use a socket with an allen wrench would also work. You would need to hold the socket with vise grips or other tool

I have gone this route before but could not find a suitable aftermarket antenna that would fit in the location. I gave in and had the dealer install a new power antenna but it only lasted about 18 months. I would love to find one of those short 1 foot flexible antennas that would fit but have not been able to find one. Metra (antenna specialist) was not able to offer a replacement antenna that would fit. Some have said that the issue is that the Subaru ones have 3 wires but most aftermarket ones have 2 wires. I'm not adventurous enough to try to make one work.

Here is a diagram from opposed forces: Item 4 (the part that the bearing is pressed into) is commonly called a "Knuckle" its nomenclature on opposed forces is Housing, Front Axle. A spindle was a common name for the part at the front axle on older rear wheel drive cars that had greaseable bearings and the wheel bearings rolled on like this photo:

On the '04' looks like they are still the press in bearings unlike the rears on the '04 that are bolted on: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_25/suspension_and_axle/front_axle/

If they cut the wires too close to the connector to splice it, go to a junk yard and cut a section of wire from the temp connector and splice that in. I have a sad story about having someone that doesn't know what they were doing recovering an expensive airplane for repairs. The damage caused by the recovery operation (cutting every wiring harness, fluid line and flight control cable) instead of using the installed disconnects was more expensive that the cost to repair the damaged caused because of the incident!

I got the Check Engine light yesterday on my way home from work and was dreading the P0420 code ('99 OBW with 2.5L). Since I knew the first question would be what is the code I pulled out my $30 code reader and got a P0106 (MAP Sensor Circuit). Armed with the code a bit of searching later showed that often it is related to the vacuum lines going to the MAP sensor near the Right Front Shock Strut. Since I had changed my oil the other day and checked the air filter, I figured that I probably disconnected the vacuum line inadvertently. Opened the hood and sure enough, the vacuum line was dangling from the MAP sensor. Reconnected it, cleared the code and hasn't been back since! Thanks to the USMB and its members for a quick, no cost fix

FSM is available somewhere via this site, I don't recall where anymore. According to my '99 FSM fuse 4 in the fuse block under the dash is for the fuel pump (I think its a 15 amp). The fuel pump relay is powered from fuse 3 in the engine compartment fuse box.

I like the dog one better than these ones: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eeynzv3N7PE&feature=related

Subaru released a Service Bulletin 09-45-06 that talks about a poorly sealing radiator cap can cause the cap to not maintain pressure. That could as GD says allow the fluid to pump into the overflow tank. Here is a link: http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/radiator-cap-cleaning-7337.html?t=7337

Snow Plow? I've got an AWD Subie, I don't need a snow plow!

According to Subaru all tires should match in circumference within 1/4". I have read that putting them as they are on your car can work for a short period of time but is recommended for them to have all four matching within 1/4". You could match them front and rear and then put a fuse in the FWD holder (under hood by passenger strut mount) and run the car for a short while in FWD. Either of these two options may shorten the life of some internal parts of the auto transmission.

What gary said. May want to do some searching here and on subaruoutback.org to find a how to. If you are able to do the job yourself/with friends it will be cost effective to do the "while you are in there stuff" and remove the engine to do the job. Done properly this repair can easily last another 100k without any additional work. Here is one on a Forester 2.5L DOHC in car: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f66/how-replace-ej25-head-gaskets-without-removing-engine-57335/ Legacy: http://home.comcast.net/~skipnospam/Head_gasket_replacement.html

I've heard the same thing about EJ25's throwing rods after HGs done assuming because of multiple overheats. Since the seller removed the thermostat its probably not a bad idea to think that the engine may have been overheated prior to the car being sold. I had to make the same decision a couple of years ago with my '99 having bad HGs. If you can do the work yourself, not a bad idea to tackle it for a few hundred dollars in parts. Paying someone else to do the HG job and the car throwing a rod a few weeks or months later would really suck.

I believe that car would have the DOHC engine that many recommend removing the engine to do the job. Its not an absolute requirement but some say you can get a better job by removing the engine: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/33809-engine-removal-thread.html Here is a long thread about doing an HG job on a SOHC that is similar. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/31644-bought-overheated-2001-obw-gonna-fix.html The seller probably removed the thermostat to sell the car and they likely knew the HGs were blown, that's why they sold it.

While I understand $1150 is steep, think about it this way. How many new car payments is that (probably less than 3) or could you buy another car for $1150? John gives some good advise to consider.

One way to check on a website is to search google for that website name +reviews That will often give you some feedback on the experience of others from that website. Another good thing to do is to look for the About Us link (usually in small print on the bottom or top of the page. That should tell you about where the company is, an address, phone number. If any of that is missing or not clear, I usually stay away. While I have not used either of those sites, they look legitimate to me. Use a credit card to purchase the items and if all else fails you should be able to dispute the charge with your credit card company (30-60 days max from transaction). A mirror from an online Subaru dealer is $139 but will still need to be painted to match your car paint. May be cheaper to buy two aftermarket units and leave them black to match like davebugs suggests. http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Legacy&subcat=Mirrors%2C+Right&year=2004 Good Luck

Yes. I think you will need to phone them to place an order