Mike104

Thanks Larry

Had the right front control arm fold up on me while I was on the freeway! Got to the shoulder and called AAA for a tow home. Conveniently I happened to have a new control arm at home. During the event the stub shaft (that the inboard end of the axle attaches to) came out of the transmission, it's still attached to the drive axle. I can't seem to insert the stub shaft into the transmission with the drive axle attached. I've tried to rotate the drive axle and push the whole assembly into the transmission but it won't go all the way in. Do the stub shaft's just push into the transmission? There appears to be a circlip at the end of the stub shaft perhaps that needs to be compressed? Would it be easier to push out the roll pin that attaches the drive axle to the stub shaft and install the stub shaft into the transmission and then install the drive axle onto the stub shaft?

The dealer will gladly sell you a new harness as that is what they do instead of repairing it. I find the heat shrink crimp connectors work well or some prefer solder and heat shrink. Usually it's a shorted wire or a bad switch.

Interested in knowing the driveability of an Outback/Baja with an EJ20 swapped into an auto transmission. I did it on a 2003 Forester with MT and don't seem to notice any significant reduction in power. I do tend to shift at higher RPM (4k) when entering freeway for a bit more pep. No problem cruising at 75mph in normal interstate driving. Not sure how it will handle on steep hills but easy to downshift from 5th to 4th if needed. Thanks for your input.

From Cars101 it shows that the 2004/2005 and maybe 2006 use a Active Valve Control System with Variable Valve Timing (V.V.T) so perhaps the JDM EJ20Y (manual) or EJ20X (automatic) may work? Not really an issue now since the owner decided to replace the engine instead of selling it Turns out it was a 2005MY

Anyone ever swap one of these: 2.0L 4-CAM DUAL AVCS TURBO AUTO ENGINE JDM EJ20X (or EJ20Y) into a Turbo Charged 2004 Baja? (turbo only available from 2004 MY not 2003 like in title) I'm assuming the Baja came with a 2.5L Turbo (the car has a factory turbo on it) Any thoughts would be appreciated

Have done the same thing before. Thanks for the write up

If you have to block off the EGR port in the new head an oil drain plug fits

^ What GD said. Does your manual have an EGR valve? My 03 Forester 2.5L with MT did not but I got a EJ20 with EGR and had to block it off after swapping the intake manifold.

If it's the plastic wood grained trim it generally comes off by prying with a flat putty knife/plastic pry tool. The key is to know where to use the tool. I don't have a 2011 so I really can't tell you where.

You may have to program the remotes to the car. I believe the owners manual tells you how to program the remote. Or check www.cars101.com for your year and model 8. Program remotes: works on Alpine system. Unlock all doors, foot on brake, all doors closed. Cycle key quickly but carefully on-off appr 10 times until the car honks one time. Do not turn the key far enough to start the car, just to the 'on' position so the dashboard lights up. When the horn honks, open and close the driver's door, press any remote button and that's it. Program another remote? Quickly open and close the driver's door again and push a button on the 2nd remote. That's it. When you're done, remove the key and the horn should honk 3 times. You're all set. Sometime it takes more than 10 on-offs to set program mode. Open/close the door, lock/unlock etc, wait 10 minutes, then try again. more detailed instructions If your car is equipped with security system disarm it (with another remote if you have one or by turning the key ON LOCK 3 times in 5 seconds). Take the key out of ignition (the key has to be taken out). The next steps have to completed in 45 seconds. Open and close driver door (the door open light has to come on/off on the cluster). Put the key into ignition. Turn the key ON LOCK 10 times in 15 seconds, leaving the key in LOCK position (do not take the key out). Horn will sound once to indicate you are in remote programing mode (if the horn does not sound start over). Open and close the driver door (this has to be done within 45 seconds of step 4). Press and release any button on the remote. Horn will sound 2 times to indicate that the remote has been programed. If you have more remotes, repeat steps 8 to 10 (up to 4 remotes could be programed). Remove the key from ignition. Horn will sound 3 times to indicate the completion of the procedure.

I would think any 16" wheel would work

That engine type (Phase II 2.5L) was known for external coolant/oil leaks. Definitely worth keeping an eye on the coolant level in the radiator (check when cold). Its possible that the leak is a small seep that doesn't tend to leave coolant on the ground but may evaporate.

Similar story on my son's 03 Forester with an EJ251. New head gaskets and rod knock a few thousand miles later.

Is this an engine that should have a larger oil pump too?

Yeah I used to be able to get leftovers from work, but that was a long time ago.

Thanks for letting us know the fix. The air bag controller wouldn't be able to flash codes if the box wasn't connected so that's a good thing to know in the future for all of us to know!

Not sure if this is applicable to the newer units but they list part numbers that they can reset: https://karmanauto.com/product/subaru-airbag-module-reset-repair-service If yours isn't listed maybe a quick email to them with the ABS ECU part number may be cheaper than replacing it.

I used to have access to anti-corrosion materials from aviation industry that would stick to anything forever MIL-PRF-16173 Grade 1But no longer do

On my 2003 Forester the Airbag light came on and stayed on for a while. I replaced the Airbag controller from a similar vehicle at a pull and pay and the light went out. When changing seat covers I got the impression that the drivers seat had been replaced at some point (maybe the side air bag had deployed?). When the airbag light was on I got the code for Airbag Controller faulty which is why I replaced it. Finally figured out it was the Yellow Tab released then the Green Tab to get the connectors apart.

I'm not sure anything other than removing that bolt every year cleaning and liberally applying anti seize isn't the option that works best for us that live in salt states. Guess I could move to the Southwest where it doesn't snow!

I covered that bad boy with anti-seize like butter on toast!

I've heard of that switch but have never been able to find it on my 99. Fortunately I have two key fobs.

If the system is low on refrigerant the compressor will not start. You can check out the compressor by briefly jumping the pressure switch cannon plug then selecting the system ON. If the compressor runs then its working.

Still have a wheel bearing whine. Resident Subie tech confirmed it's the right rear bearing. Seems the most common failure on the Forester. Engineering/Racing friend suggested Titanium bolts to replace the Lateral Link bolt. www.ti64.com