Mike104

Main issue is final drive ratio. Outbacks have a different final drive ratio. Car-part.com is a reliable source of what fits and what doesn't. As opposed to some random guy on the internet (with some senior member exceptions)

You get what you pay for.

I got it for my son who works at the dealers price (cost + 10%). The list price was about $220. Some online Subaru dealers do give discounted prices. Check www.opposedforces.com/parts to get the part number for your car then search google for that part number. Should give you some options.

I actually ended up buying new knuckles, bearing, brake backing plate, Lateral Link Bolt, Nut, washers and lower lateral link bushings from Subaru Dealer, seals and hub from Rock Auto and assembled the new parts and installed that. The removed knuckles were damaged when cutting the lateral link bolt out with a cutting wheel. I would not want to try and take a rear one out from a pull and pay yard.

go to www.car-part.com it will list all of the interchangeable years/models. Depends on FWD, AWD, with or without ABS

Check www.car-part.com for interchanges. Depends on FWD, AWD with or without ABS. Difficulty is getting the lateral link bolt out. I just did two rears on my '03 Forester and ended up having to cut the lateral link bolt and burn out the lower bushings. Probably want to have a new lateral link bolt, nut and washers on hand as well as two new lower lateral link bushings.

Best option for head gaskets is an electronic CO sniffer. They are expensive but most shops have access to one. Other option is a chemical CO tester but it is not as accurate. The SOHC H4 engines tended to have external oil/coolant leaks rather than exhaust gas leaks into the cooling system like the DOHC 2.5L engines

You got that right!

Item 2 - Gasket-oil separator cover 11832AA022 For 2.5L

POLARIZATION. Polarized lenses are not recommended for use in the aviation environment Polarized sunglasses are not recommended because of their possible interaction with displays or other materials in the cockpit environment sunglasses.pdf

AT fluid is a different animal. According to the owners manual for your MY, oil meeting API classification SM with Energy Conserving or SN with Resource Conserving are acceptable oils. ILSAC GF-4 or GF-5 are also acceptable. Mobil 1 meets these specifications. Feel free to use what you wish. Pages from MSA5M1404ASTIS_18.pdf

Subaru doesn't make their own oil. It's no better that what you can get at any parts store. I've never used Amsoil products but others that have swear by them.

When I wear my polarized sunglasses and use my phone for Google Maps I can't look at it in Landscape mode. Works fine in Portrait. No option other than not using polarized sunglasses or lift them up to check the display

The caliper bracket bolts are 17MM Strut bolts are 19mm. The rotor is not attached to the hub except for being sandwiched between the wheel and hub. You may need two M8 x 1.25 bolts to extract the rotor from the hub. The axle nut is 32MM or maybe 31MM. You can generally rent a set of axle nut sockets from most auto parts stores. If you are going to change the bearing you will need either a hydraulic press (20T preferred) or a set of FWD bearing tools. Some shops will replace the bearing for you if you bring the knuckle and parts in with you. Here are a couple of videos to give you and idea of what is involved: http://<div style="position:relative;height:0;padding-bottom:56.21%"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/d1no7NDMbwE?ecver=2" style="position:absolute;width:100%;height:100%;left:0" width="641" height="360" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div> http://<div style="position:relative;height:0;padding-bottom:56.21%"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2kUUEryHHAw?ecver=2" style="position:absolute;width:100%;height:100%;left:0" width="641" height="360" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div> This post uses the hydraulic press method https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=787070 I've done a bunch of these using the HF FWD kit and the hydraulic press method.

I believe that any synthetic that is 0W20 is suitable. If you look in your owners manual it will tell you what specification is needed to be met. Most synthetic oils on the market are aware of the OEM specs and generally try to meet those requirements.

No, the speedo problem is in the speedometer unit. If you have a VSS P0500 code it's probably the VSS

The attached pages from the service manual tell you how to put the valves in closed position (TDC) Pages from 2003 Forester Service Manual.pdf

Another good source for interchangeability is www.car-part.com

Might be water in the spark plug tubes or in the ignition wires themselves.

Here is a long article about "oil consumption" and a list of worse offenders: https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/magazine/2015/06/excessive-oil-consumption/index.htm As explained better elsewhere by GD the oil consumption was a design trade off to improve gas mileage. Less ring friction for better mileage, less efficient oil scraping, leads to consuming oil between oil changes. The fix for Subaru was to put in a new short block that got up to 3 MPG LESS. A quart of oil between oil changes is a cheaper option than reduced fuel economy IMO.

Here are the affected vehicles for the extended warranty Covered Vehicles https://www.girardgibbs.com/subaru-oil-consumption-class-action-lawsuit/ The “Settlement Class Vehicles” are: Automatic / CVT Transmission: 2011-14 Forester (below VIN *529004) 2012-13 Impreza 4-Door (below VIN *033336) 2012-13 Impreza 5-Door Wagon (below VIN *886714) 2013 Crosstrek (below VIN *856139) 2013 Legacy (below VIN *048086) 2013 Outback (below VIN *321435) Manual Transmission: 2011-15 Forester (below VIN *543650 ) 2012-15 Impreza (below VIN *270253) 2013-15 Crosstrek (below VIN *270284) 2013-14 Legacy (all) 2013-14 Outback (all)

Looks like it's attached from the back side with screws. My thought would be that you would need to remove the door panel to get access

Too bad it's the passenger side. I have a drivers side with new ball joint, hub and bearing installed.

http://www.provenforce.com/center_bearing/subaru_center_bearing.html

You could try these guys: https://www.mttechsuba.com/used-subaru-parts/ Not cheap but good parts. Stored indoors instead of lying around in a field getting wet and rusty. I bought one before I learned how to change the bearings myself and it was perfect. Other option is to get a used one from a yard and replace the bearing. Also try car-part.com for used parts near you.