Mike104

Could be a blocked heater core that is preventing the thermostat from opening. Try taking the hoses off the heater core and connecting them with a pipe fitting. Then run the car. The heater circuit feeds the back side of the thermostat letting it open. No flow to back side and thermostat won't open.

I had the same issue on my 03 Forester, Check Engine light when coasting in neutral. Saw the write up above, changed the switch and Check Engine Light gone!

Best option to tap in an oil pressure gauge is at the oil pressure switch it's very close to the oil pump output and should give a good indication as to actual oil pressure. You can install it as a temporary job or permanent if you want.

Just pop it back in, may need a soft hammer to make it go in.

So it sounds like the Wheel Hub has a different spline pattern/size? The 2001 has pressed in front bearings and the 2006 has bolt in ones. I don't know if the wheel hub would transfer. I doubt if the entire knuckle would work. Hopefully someone smarter that me will answer your question.

Likely 2.5 Part Number 93073SA650 https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2004_Forester-X-25L-AT/_51505_6026963/LETTER-MARK/S11-919-01.html

Looks like the belt is off one tooth.

I did the same mod but ran a 12 Ga wire from the + terminal on the battery directly to Pin 30 on the relay (with a 30 Amp inline fuse). The above one uses less wire. Post #8 above has a link to the same mod.

Don't make your next timing belt service at 105k. Maybe 50k.

No oil but generally the common thought is to replace them at TB change with non Chinese made idlers (KOYO/NTN, etc), especially the cogged one

The P0335 and not starting issue are not related. Edit. The P0335 code is a symptom not the cause. GD explains it well in a later post. The point I was trying to make is that the P0335 code was not the problem and was not causing your no crank issue. Having experienced this issue myself (and replacing a number of parts) I stumbled upon the relay mod and once installed addressed the intermittent no crank issue. Need to use a large enough wire (12 Ga) and a fuse from the battery post for safety.

If starter clicks but doesn't spin common issue is contacts in the solenoid. http://beergarage.com/subystarter.aspx I had to do the start signal bypass relay mod on my 99 to get it to start consistently. http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showpost.php?p=602710&postcount=4 Could also be the start inhibit relay if your car is equipped with one. Crankshaft Position Sensor resistance range is between 1 and 4 kΩ?

Changed headgaskets on a 03 Forester, didn't know about the small oil pump. Ended up changing the block later due to rod knock. Save yourself the trouble and get another engine or block that you know hasn't been overheated.

So when the crank sprocket slips I expect that would affect the timing resulting in power loss? I have heard of people cleaning the keyway, putting in a new key and sometimes filling the gap with JB weld and after it cures installing a new sprocket and tightening the bolt properly.

Bearing quality and installation technique probably have more impact on bearing life than the grease. Although since some Foresters seem to have more failures on the right rear bearing I did clean and repack that bearing with Lucas Red and Tacky, I don't know if that will have any effect but didn't think it would hurt anything. I have only changed a handful of bearings on Subaru's so GD's experience with changing hundreds is certainly more valid.

When cold I have to double clutch my 03 to get it into first when stopped. Once warmed up no issue. Wonder if the gear oil may have an impact?

You should never regret buying quality

I learned that one the hard way too! Reference my comment above about pushing the bearing out in the correct direction

Best answer^ Subaru HG PN 11044AA770 for EJ25 Engines is the one to use

Another option is to buy items separately (NTN, Koyo, NSK) are all good Japanese components. Misuboshi belt is good too.

Harbor Freight used to sell cheap 4' x 8' Utility trailers (~$200) but it seems they no longer sell them. They were rated for 1000 lbs which probably would have worked for you.

Go to www.car-part.com and it will tell you what years will fit

Some use a tool like this (or a home made version) to get the bearing/hub out of the knuckle

On my 03 Forester the antenna is in the left rear window. After my son installed his new HU radio reception sucked. Googled and found out the the blue Power Antenna wire needed to be connected to power the booster. Connected the wire and works much better

X has rear drum brakes and non-painted lower body cladding XS has rear disks and painted lower body cladding