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Mike104

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Everything posted by Mike104

  1. I had a similar issue on an 03 Forester the back end would move typically when I shifted gears. Eventually I found that the lateral link bolt had worn the hole in the wheel knuckle so that the wheel was free to move back and forth. Took a while to find it. The metal piece where the bolt goes through was oblong. This is a picture of a new lateral link bolt with after market lateral links but the wheel knuckle is the same.
  2. According to parts.subaru.com that transmission number crosses to Subaru Part Number31000AD890 https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru__Forester-S-25L-AT/49239512__6021990/AT--TRANSMISSION-ASSEMBLY/S10-150-01.html It's used on Forester 1999, 2000 and 2001 https://parts.subaru.com/p/AUTOMATIC-TRANSMISSION-ASSEMBLY-TZ1A3ZC2AA/49239512/31000AD890.html you could check opposedforces.com to see if they give the Final Drive Ratio (I can't access it using company firewall). It may work on other vehicles but I don't have that information
  3. Also make sure the end of the overflow hose is cut at a 45 degree angle so it doesn't get sucked down to the bottom of the tank Rad cap likely suspect, make sure it's a Subaru one. Could also be a leaking connection of the hose at the radiator (I usually put a tyrap on the hose to make sure it doesn't loose vacuum.
  4. did you look here https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-
  5. Only adjustment procedure in the FSM uses the Subaru Select Monitor. This is from the 99 Legacy Manual so hopefully it's the same. You can get an FSM for your year/model here https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals- MSA5TCD99L97.pdf
  6. The more I hear about the new vehicles, I am enjoying my 03 Forester with 5MT and 99 OBW with 4EAT
  7. I expect with a 99 and the known issue of the intermittent speedometer the speedo/odometer has likely been changed
  8. I know on my 03 Forester those vents just snap out. I use a plastic pry tool (Harbor Freight special) You can go here and download a shop manual for your car and verify if it shows how to get them out. https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-
  9. Fill the block first, thru the upper rad hose I have only worked on 4 Subaru's and I find that this method works for me. I know that the Subaru mech's at my local dealer use a special funnel but filling the block through the upper rad hose has always worked for me
  10. Go to car-parts.com and check for interchangeable or go to parts.subaru.com and use the Where Used Tab to see if they are interchangeable
  11. +1 on the HF Earthquake cordless impact, at least for us backyard DIY guys. Not sure if it would hold up to everyday use, but for the few times I need it, saves me lots of effort.
  12. You can get a specific FSM from here https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-
  13. Stick to an Aisin kit or buy the individual parts from a known good Japanese vendor (NTK, Koyo NSF). Mitsuboshi Timing Belt. The crap made by other providers often have Chinese made bearings and they have been reported to fail earlier. Hash marks will be evident once you remove the timing belt cover and use a good light. The image below is from a SOHC 2.2L. The DOHC has different marks so verify if you have the EJ22 or EJ25 These are from the EJ25 DOHC
  14. I know that the transmission and rear differential must have same gear ratio to work properly. Car in question is an 08 Impreza WRX with 5MT. According to cars101.com this was supplied with a 3.90 gear ratio. Current ebay sellers are offering JDM transmissions with matching 4.44 rear differential. Question is what would be the difference in operation if the MT/Rear Diff with a 3.90 was replaced with a MT/Rear Diff with a 4.44 ratio?
  15. Here is the pin out http://ae64.com/20-pin-pinout.htmhttp://ae64.com/20-pin-pinout.htm
  16. I just answered his question. By the pants method could take just as long or longer. Either way do it the way you want.
  17. Page 3 shows how to adjust the TPS. Remove ECU and check for voltage with the throttle closed (Connector & terminal / Specified voltage (B136) No. 15 — (B136) No. 17 / 0.45 — 0.55 V [Fully closed.] From my 99 FSM but should be similar. But check to make sure the adjustment procedure chosen is for your engine/California emissions etc. You can get an FSM for your vehicle here https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals- MSA5TCD99L94.pdf
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