Mike104

What side knuckle has the broken tone ring? Is it an Legacy?

I bought Koyo, NTN and NSK components from Japan on ebay/amazon to do my timing belt job. I mistakenly bought a Gates Chinese Junk Kit previously and don't want to risk it failing before the next scheduled change.

"These are delicate machines making well over 100 HP per liter and require excellent maintenance and a watchful eye". Definately why I am not a big fan of turbos for me. I don't need that power and am not interested in the extra work to maintain it. All fine and good for those that want that power but as mentioned needs to be well treated and maintained. I've noticed that a lot of newer cars seem to have gone to 2.0 L engines with turbos and am wondering how they will fare in the long run with people that can't figure out to check their oil, use synthetic, change it often and use proper cool down technique after running the car hard.

Yeah, I tossed one a few weeks ago Best option would be a pull and pay yard

95-99 Legacy Outback doors should be the same, less trim and possibly wiring. Use car-part.com to verify interchangeability

The sad part is at the local dealership they just change the belt unless you specifically request they change the rollers. In reality it's only the cost of the parts, little extra labor involved once you get the timing belt off.

I had a local glass company put in a used rear window in my 99 OBW and it was about $250. In my 03 Forester my current insurance policy covered the rear window replacement for $0 deductible (Kentucky glass policy) because it was not damaged due to collision. You may want to contact your insurance agent and see if it's covered.

I can see both sides of this story. About 10 yrs ago I blew the HGs on my 99 OBW with 216k miles. The car was given to me so I had nothing into it other than previous maintenance items. I essentially knew the condition of this vehicle. I read all the threads about 2.2L swaps, JDM engines and Remans especially the often case about rod knock shortly after replacing head gaskets. I considered the various options (get another vehicle, put in a reman engine, a JDM/Used engine or a short block). Since I was going to have to pay someone to do the job anyway (didn't have tools/equipment/experience) I eventually decided to buy a CCR reman engine and had a local "import specialist" install the new engine. It was pricey but the CCR engine had everything included (except accessories and intake manifold) so was only the engine swap costs. Now 10 yrs and 250k miles more on the car, it was the right decision for me at the time. Second event on another Subaru ('03 Forester) that had rod knock after HG replacement, I went the JDM EJ20 route. I had more experience, the tools/equipment and a Subaru mechanic in my house. This car won't last 10 more years (rust) and had a manual transmission so I felt the few less HP could be easily adapted over an automatic with TCU set shift points. The OP doesn't probably have the $3k to buy the parts for the "right" way to do the job so I get him wanting to go the JDM route. If money was no object the Subaru short block would be the best option and if I ever need to replace an EJ25 engine in a OB I would definitely go that route if it was a car I was going to keep.

I had two vehicles that had similar issues (misfiring) that both ended up being coils. $25 each from pull and pay yard and both issues went away.

The blue wrench can do wonders. Some jobs are worth paying someone with the tools and equipment to do the job efficiently. Sometimes it's better to write a check first rather than try and screw it up and then take it to a shop. Just increases the cost.

Yeah the 91111P is just an identifier like the Item Number in an AIPC illustration. If you look at the link it shows you the identifier number on the left then the actual part number on the right side of the page https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2014_Forester-XT-Premium-20L-CVT/_51505_6028065/OUTER-GARNISH-REAR/S13-914-01.html

I too had a rusty (Ohio) Forester. I bit the bullet and bought new rear knuckles, brake backing plates, Lateral Link bolts/hardware bushings, hubs, bearings and seals when I did my rear wheel bearings. I didn't have a lift or air tools so cutting/burning it all out and putting in new stuff was not the cheapest way to go but I didn't have to pay labor and got it all back together. Front ball joints are a pain. Sometimes hitting two hammers against each other on the control arm can pop the ball joint out of the control arm. Sometimes using a long (4 ft) pry bar works too. This tool works as well The bigger issue can be getting the ball joint out of the knuckle. This tool helps Others that have more experience may do it differently but those options worked for me

Great that you found the issue. Interestingly I have had two vehicles both poorly running that ended up being a coil in both cases. The 03 was getting constant misfires and check engine lights. The 99 misfiring but no check engine light. After doing all of the usual things ended up putting in a used coil and problem solved!

Another jurisdiction that have nothing to do are airports that have their own police departments (at least in the US). Since they rarely have anything to do other than deal with opened doors or people leaving a gate before it closes (or the occasional irate passenger) they do tend to be very strict with traffic rules. I routinely drive at just under the speed limit around the airport and am conscious to be judicious in using my turn signals. Routinely see people pulled over by airport police around the airport for minor moving violations that probably wouldn't happen in the larger metro areas for the reasons stated above

Pretty much what he said, I assume you mean the Rear Garnish Panel 91111SG000

"Prop the tailgate up with a hockey stick" Spoken like a true Canadian! Fortunately for me I have many in my garage to choose from!

Advance Auto stopped carrying refills a few years ago. The newer style blades made by aftermarket (Trico, RainX, Bosch, etc) are all once piece these days. Buying them at auto parts stores is a high mark up item and can be cheaper if on sale and you have a coupon or a rebate gift card.

I had a shop bust the knuckle when removing a wheel bearing with a press. I have used the Harbor Freight kit when changing bearings on my cars. Use of an electric impact wrench and a large wrench make it much easier. I couldn't justify the expense of the OTC or Kent Moore tool but understand that the HF unit is not suitable for a shop environment

I prefer the Bosch Icon blades. They seem to last longer than most.

You need to use a quality silicone grease like Sil-Glyde

It almost looks like brake fluid spilled and wrinkled the paint

https://parts.subaru.com/ But that's for North America. You could try http://opposedforces.com/parts/ as they have European listings

The Oil Pump O-ring is not just an O-ring it was replaced with a specific seal. Personally I would wait for the part.

screw the PCV valve into that bushing and then connect the hose to the Intake Manifold. Mine didn't have a connection to the airbox. You could get a Y fitting at a parts store to connect it if needed

I used a piece of 3/4" rubber hose and put in a brass threaded bushing that would accept the PCV valve. Put a hose clamp on either end (on on the tube and one on the bushing end). The other end of the hose went to the tube on the JDM block.