Mike104

Manual Auto

I believe the difference between the MT and AT kits is the water pump outlet. The manual kits also include a spacer for setting the gap on the timing belt guide only used on the MT vehicles. I believe the auto water pump has an extra outlet, but I may not be remembering it correctly,

That looks like a fun job to do on the ground! Good thing you had a lift available

2003 Forester is has an EJ25. You can verify that by looking down under the alternator

Probably head gaskets

Make sure you keep the engine oil level topped up by checking it frequently. Keep a couple of quarts of engine oil in the car and add one as needed, same with the power steering fluid (ATF) as mentioned above.

check all the hose clamps to make sure they are tight. I had a similar issue on my vehicle and a slightly loose clamp resulted in a slow loss of coolant.

Oops missed that!

Plastic oil separator plate Aluminum one Current version

Not sure if mentioned but you may want to do the timing belt now since it will only essentially be the parts cost. Make sure they replace the idlers and tensioner as well as the timing belt.

And the rebuilt starter is likely from China and is a piece of junk. Much better to get an OEM one from a junk yard and replace the contacts (which is what causes most of them to stop working)

MY 98-2002 will use the same panel (according to car-part.com)

Then you have a different issue. Need to differentiate between No Crank and No Start.

105,000 miles 105 months. If it's original and needs head gaskets do it all. Buy an Aisin kit instead of cheap Chinese Junk Gates or Dayco

Also wait a second or two after you turn the key to ON before you move it to START then hold it there for a few seconds. I put a alternate start line for my kid's car that lives an hour away and has starting issues. Just ran a parallel line from the starter solenoid and left it secured near the starter so if needed he can touch it to the Positive terminal of the battery after turning the ignition switch to on. Put a fuse in it for protection.

The extended warranty for oil consumption is 8 years/100k miles https://subaru.oemdtc.com/80/engine-oil-consumption-2013-2015-subaru

Using parts interchange listings, and trying other vehicles on that list, I came up with a few other part numbers. Napa lists a UJ10430, although there was no availability. Autozone lists a 2-0430DL, of which they had 4 in their Hub store across town. I now have 2 of those sitting on my desk (they are greasable, btw).

Thanks for the write up and excellent pics!

We all make mistakes. The main issue is a) was it done because you didn't know any better (not intentional) and b) did you own up to the mistake or try to hide it from being discovered. In my line of work if you don't follow b) people can die (no road shoulders at 30,000 ft). The other concern is like GD says is it a continuing case of mistakes.

When I used to wrench on airplanes for a living pro tools were the usual buy (Snap On, MAC, Proto, maybe Craftsman). But now that I just tell people what to do to fix airplanes and only wrench on my car occasionally Harbor Freight or Kobalt from Lowe's is sufficient for my needs.

My son and I chased a poor running issue on two Subaru's, both ended up being a coil. I went to the pull and pay yard and got a Subaru OEM one and when I installed them all running issues went away. Stay away from the aftermarket part store ones, I have never had much luck with them but don't want to spend $$$ for an OEM part from a dealer. The pull and pay yard worked for me. All that being said is this a Coil Over Plug engine?

Go here and check the wiring colors http://ae64.com/WRX-pinout.htm

I had a similar issue on my 03 Forester that ended up being a frozen brake caliper. May want to check for free movement of the sliders/calipers.

Car-part.com says 93-2002 will fit. You can also check parts.subaru.com for your year and use the what does this fit button to see were it was used. The parts.subaru.com site will probably be more restrictive than car-part.com

Is the fuse on the back like the rest of the fuses in the fuse box? Nope. If I recall it looks like a resistor? I don't think it's easily replaceable