Mike104

Allegedly the Mazda N3R1-14-302 filter will fit on the EJ engines

Sadly we can't get the Japanese made filters here in the US as Honeywell (FRAM) has the contract for USDM

IIRC its a 74 or a 94 bulb

Generally you can do a load test of the battery that will let you know the status of the battery. Once it gets too low I'd rather change it at my convenience. $100 is not worth me risking a dead battery at the wrong place/time. Your car do as you see fit. Three to five years is average for most lead acid batteries these days. Most are made by one or two manufacturers.

Low oil level light can mean one of two things 1) oil level is low or 2) sensor is faulty/wiring issue.

I try to replace them at my convenience rather than letting the battery decide when it's going to die (usually at the most inconvenient place and time)

Koyo or NSK generally make the idlers/cogged pulley. NSF supplies the Tensioner assembly

Just check the oil regularly and ignore the light. Or sell the car to someone at a lowball price and buy something newer and get back into car payments. Good thing you don't have an older version with a timing belt that requires replacement at 105k miles to the tune of a few hundred dollars (all owner pay). I have a 2008 Impreza that the PO sold for $800 and bought a new car because it needed about $2400 in dealer work (oil seeping head gaskets). Less than $200 for plugs/wires/coil and a used AF sensor and it was back on the road. I ignored the HGs (check the oil frequently). The PO now has $500+/month car payments for 5 years because $2400 was too expensive for them

2011 Forester has the FB25 engine that indeed has a timing chain rather than a timing belt. Main issue is oil consumption (some people think cars should be able to run for 7,500 miles without needed to check or add oil). Subaru extended the engine warranty to 100,000 miles/8 years from original delivery. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/SB-10094229-2280.pdf The dealer performs an engine oil consumption check and if outside the allowable limit Subaru will install a new engine short block. You may want to contact a local dealer and see if your vehicle is still covered by this extended warranty. Numbers may vary for Canada. Subaru America info here https://subaru.oemdtc.com/80/engine-oil-consumption-2013-2015-subaru

Good to know.

My 08 Impreza had a leaking condenser and evaporator core. The condenser should be evident with a UV light. Ideas above are a good start before you get in too deep.

Flashing CEL usually means a misfire. Could be plugs/wires/coil. Subaru's are fussy for NGK plugs and NGK or Subaru wires. If possible get an OEM coil from a pull and pay yard if available. Aftermarket coils don't last.

I believe the later vehicles use the rear O2 sensor for fuel trim so the spacer can set other codes. There is a great P0420 code thread over at Outback forum https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/p0420-diagnosis.49537/#post-474237 It's long but the first few pages have the good info. May not be a cat but if it is OEM is the way to go. Others don't last as long. Some have P0420 code return in a few months. Main issue is to figure out why the code is set before replacing the cat.

I just put Fel Pro intake manifold gaskets on my 04 Ford Exploder (plastic intake) and they stuck up similar. They get compressed when you tighten the manifold. The old ones were compressed after being installed for so long.

Should be available from Subaru 53061FC000 $125 Retail https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2002_Forester-25L-MANUAL-S/FRAME-COMPLETE-RADIATOR-PANEL-LOWER/49256497/53061FC000.html Not sure if available aftermarket unless used. IIRC that part is spot welded into place.

I have a drivers side knuckle with a new bearing, seals, hub and ball joint that I rebuilt. $100 + shipping if you want it. Has ABS tone ring and mounting for an ABS sensor. It was from my 99 OBW so should fit your car.

There is one at my kid's dealer with blown turbo. Definitely going to pass on it.

Doesn't he have an OB XT? "My car is a 05 obxt 5sp with 115000 miles"

From someone who is much more knowledgeable than I am says this about XTs We have a saying around the shop - "Friends don't let friends by Legacy GT's". Because they are a total $hit-show.

You may want to remove the radiator fans or the radiator and fans as an assembly to give you more room to work. Here's one way to remove the crank pulley https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnkcnqF_S3c There are lots of youtube videos on how to do the timing belt job. As you said it's not that difficult if you have done others. I bought the Company23 crankshaft tool and have used it multiple times on the various Subaru's that I have done timing belt jobs on. It's not necessary but It was worth it to me. Here is a slightly cheaper version. Is handy to tighten the crankshaft bolt. Recommend using locktite on the bolt as well as torquing it to correct value. Haynes manual has wrong values. Crank Bolt tool

There are members on this forum that routinely put new rings (and in some cases knurled pistons to reduce piston slap) on EJ25 motors but I don't know if the EJ22 is the same. My thought would be that the rings on your engine need replacing but I don't know if that is a DIY project for a novice. Others with way more experience say to not bother touching the cylinder walls (at least on the EJ25, as mentioned above) and to just put new rings in . I don't believe that oversize is much of an option for EJ motors, at least in stock format.

Toss the Chilton's in the trash can or use it to start a fire. Go here and get a Factory Service Manual https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-

Ido said it all. Timing belt option is Mitsuboshi. Idlers/cogged gear are usually NSK or Koyo. NTN makes the tensioner for Subaru. You can buy these on eBay/Amazon but beware of counterfeit stuff. Aisin kits have generally been the go to ones to buy a whole kit.

Sounds like a timing belt tensioner to me. If it goes away after it gets warm I would think it wasn't rod knock.

Make sure all of the bolts are removed. Use a long screwdriver or pry bar to move it off the block.