Mike104

Go here https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals- and download an FSM for your car, perhaps it may show how to get the codes without the SSM

I have a 2008 Impreza that has a vibration that is fairly noticeable at 60-65 mph. Below or above this speed is much less. I don't feel it in the steering wheel and can't seem to feel it at a specific wheel, seems to be in the center of the vehicle. I'm suspecting carrier bearing or driveshaft as a first place to check. Any thoughts?

Thanks for letting us know the final fix

Local auto parts stores (Auto Zone, Advance, NAPA, O'Reilly's, Pep Boys, etc) should stock it or be able to order it for you. It is more expensive (retail around $50 US for a 25 foot roll) you may be able to find it online or a coupon code for an online purchase at some retailers

This seems to be a common issue. Since you direct wired the solenoid that verifies that the starter and large wire to starter are good. I think you have also verified the neutral safety switch (has a different name on AT cars but same thing). What you can try is measuring the voltage at the solenoid connection when the key is turned to Start. If the voltage is low you could try adding a relay to the solenoid circuit that is powered directly from the battery. I did this for several years after replacing almost every part in the system to no avail. Since you said that there is no power at the solenoid when turned to start it may be the ignition switch or potentially a fuse.

Turbo engine head gasket is Subaru PN 11044AA770. There is an equivalent FelPro part number but I don't know what it is. Both of those options are Multi Layer Steel gaskets that are less susceptible to leaks

Good call on getting a coil pack from a pull and pay as the aftermarket ones tend to suck. I have fixed at least two Subarus with misfire codes by putting in a coil scavenged from a pull and pay yard.

A good resource for what fits what is http://www.car-part.com

If you need a knuckle for a 95-99 Outback Drivers side I have a refurbished one with new bearing, new hub, new seals and new ball joint. $100 shipped to anywhere in 48 US states. It won't fit your 2000 Outback though

If it was a side airbag (in the seat) they may have needed to remove it to get better access

Interesting. I know my son does all the airbag recalls at the dealership he works at and never removes the passenger seat. It may have been someone who needed to get better access due to mobility or physical limitations. Definitely take the car back and ask them to make it right.

I know that the Legacy GT/OBW XT turbo engines are not recommended used vehicle purchases. Is it difficult to swap a NA engine in place of the Turbo engine? Found a nice looking one for $1000 that has bad turbo/engine. I assume that these are DOHC engines. Would swapping in a JDM EJ20 Turbo engine be easier?

I like to check crutchfield.com as a good source of what's needed and things that will fit. Consider using an interface harness (Metra) as cutting wires on the factory harness scares me. If you need wiring pinouts go here https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=36208128&postcount=9

That's good to know. When my kid put a short shifter in his car he just pulled it out and pushed it back in. I did the same when I replaced the short shifter with the original when I sold the car. Lucky for me I didn't break the insert

Go here https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals- and download the service manual for your car (for free)

If you go OEM don't use the 11044AA633 gasket as it is the same kind installed that fails. Use a 643 or 770 (last three numbers) as those are MLS gaskets. FelPro have been used by some with good success.

I don't think it would be cost effective to get the software to reset your airbag module. There are online services that do it for about $50. I was lucky and got a unit from a pull and pay yard and put that in my 03 Forester and it was able to clear the airbag light. YMMV. Blinking Check Engine light is usually a misfire code that can be spark plugs/wires/coil or injector issue. NGK plugs and Wires as well as OEM coils only (get one from a pull and pay yard).

It's just held in with pressure. Put it in place and push down really hard and it should stay in place

I use brake cleaner for most of my cleaning. The bolt with threads cut works well on female threaded holes.

These are the two crank gears (as idosubaru said) Here are the two drivers side cam gears When I swapped in a JDM EJ20 motor into my 03 Forester I kept the original intake manifold and swapped over the drivers side cam and crank gears as that was mentioned in several JDM swap posts. Sorry you learned the hard way.

According to the picture posted by the OP #7 is an Oil Temperature Sensor and #12 is an Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor they both appear to be on the left front of the engine

It looks like there is only one temperature sensor installed (#22630) on that year. Not sure why two different part numbers with the price variance though. Did you put in your VIN to perhaps filter one of them out? The only difference I can see in the two part numbers is one has a white connector and one has a black connector. Not sure what impact that has though.

Head gasket external oil leaks and wheel bearings come to mind as things to check. Also make sure all four tires are same brand/model/size wear pattern.

For those codes the first suggestion is to do an oil change (that you just did). The oil pressure switches as mentioned leak oil and can easily crack the head if tightened too much. I also remember reading a long thread about those codes where there are some small screens in the valve control solenoid (IIRC) that can get blocked and cause these codes. For the misfire check for NGK plugs/wires and if needed swap in a used OEM coil from a pull and pay yard. The aftermarket ones don't taste well for Subies.

Troubleshooting by VISA/Mastercard is also expensive and often not very effective.