Mike104

Answers my question about the Outback XT at the dealer with a blown turbo=pass

I read the owner's manual for the on\off key and programming instructions for my key fobs on my 08 Impreza and took it to my son at the dealer who was able to use the SSM to simply add the code numbers under the cover to the computer and press one button to add them both. Way easier than key on/off etc. Not sure if the 99 system is the same

99 OBW Speedo is a known issue. Either get a replacement speedometer or try the resolder fix https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/770913-post16.html

General consensus on aftermarket cats is they are junk. You will probably get a P0420 code shortly after installing them but YMMV

I said the short block is a better option as you know what you are getting. Doing the JDM swap is definitely easier to do but what you get can vary.

Google is your friend https://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/10-pcv-valve-location-664498/ Use a Subaru OEM PCV as the aftermarket ones are't liked by Subies

Replace the suction hose and the O-ring under the pump on the nipple first. Use new hose clamps too. Try that first

Best option is to get the Check Engine code read (most of those other lights are because of the check engine light). Get the code read for free at most chain auto parts stores and come back and post it here. I have heard of a number of events like this being related to the brake light switch, but that's just a guess based on no OBDII code. I doubt that this issue is related to the oil cap

Swapping in a 3.0L would be a major pain in comparison to doing the JDM EJ25 swap. https://www.ebay.com/p/Short-Engine-Subaru-EJ25-for-Impreza-WRX-Legacy-Forester-2-5-Ltr-2001-07/655000688?iid=202590008179&chn=ps You may have to get one shipped to you. The best option is the Subaru short Block as you know what you are getting, but it does take some work to do, more than the JDM swap and would ideally need someone experienced to help.

A Subaru remanufactured short block is about $2k. Plus additional gaskets, timing belt service and any cylinder head work needed (resurface at least). It is definitely a DIY project if you have someone that can help. Another option is to purchase a JDM engine (used engine removed from a car in Japan). These generally have less than 60k miles on them and are an easier job (remove and replace) than doing a short block replacement. A JDM engine should be less than $2k delivered.

Probably means there is an ABS fault code stored in the ABS control unit. Since your year and model aren't listed I can't tell you how to pull the code from the ABS unit You can check this thread out

The 09 has the EJ25 engine and it's the FB series of engines that were recalled for oil consumption https://subaru.oemdtc.com/80/engine-oil-consumption-2013-2015-subaru Definitely use a Subaru OEM PCV valve and switch to synthetic as GD said.

Engine with Coil Pack/Plug wires Coil over plug 2011 was when Forester went to FB engine that has Coil Over Plug not Coil/Wires

Open the hood and look

From GD's post above And seriously - get off it about plastics. They are here to stay. I just replaced a broken plastic heater control on an '86 Subaru GL with 130k on it. I also broke about a million plastic bits doing a heater core on a 1990 Corvette last week. Plastic is here to stay and has been for *quite* some time. And some of it is quite good actually - glass fiber reinforced ABS and Nylon has higher tensile strength than Aluminum in some cases and for some applications has greatly enhanced thermodynamic properties. Some of you may not like to know that many newer commercial airplanes are designed and built with totally carbon fiber "plastic" wings including primary structural spars and wing skins. Like autos, airplanes need to be light weight so airlines can carry more weight (passengers)

Tail/Clearance Fuse Not the One circled

You can download a Subaru maintenance manual from here https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals- I don't have access to it here and none of the owners manual links for 98 work

Especially if it's in Canada!

What year and model

If you have rod knock throwing a bearing at the offending cylinder is not likely to resolve your issue long term. People with more knowledge than me generally advise newbies to not split blocks. When I had the same issue I ended up putting in a JDM engine and it was probably easier than trying to split the block. If the crankshaft journal needs to be reworked you will have to split the block to get the crankshaft out. I believe that many don't rework a crankshaft but simply install a new one, that would involve splitting the block.

I saw my son doing this valve recall job the other day. Subaru made some sweet tools to compress the valve springs and remove the rockers and keepers. Essentially they take the engine out, put it on a stand and rotate the head facing up. Each cylinder is rotated to TDC and they apply shop air pressure through the spark plug hole (to keep the valve in place). The valve rocker is removed (using the special tool) the valve spring is compressed and the keepers removed. New spring is installed and then everything is put back together.

Use a Subaru OEM PCV valve, the parts store Chinese ones are crap

Thanks for getting back to us with the fix, may help someone else down the line

www.car-part.com found me a driver side rear door for my 03 Forester, same color, $150 within a half hours drive.

Delete the oil cooler and use the manual kit I second this comment by GD. I have heard that the oil coolers leak and I have the same vehicle (2003 Forester) with MT and I don't have an oil cooler, not sure why an auto would need an engine oil cooler. The AT oil is cooled by a coil inside the radiator.