Mike104

It's your car but people smarter and with more experience than me have given you the best advice and recommendations. Lots of anecdotal stories about other failures after just changing the timing belt. $200 in parts now while you have everything off is a better option IMO than having to spend that plus getting heads repaired after the valves bend. But hey it's a free country do what you want.

Mitsuboshi is the OEM supplier to Subaru for the timing belt. Previous advice about Aisin kit or buying quality parts (NTN, NSK, KOYO) is spot on. Definitely replace the tensioner with a NTN part.

Now that's shade tree engineering at its best!!

Check http://cars101.com/

good to know!

https://www.subiesavers.com/legacy For replacement arch pieces

I would definitely do a full timing belt job on the replacement engine. Use the intake manifold that is currently installed in your car. When you pull off the crankshaft gear compare it to the one currently installed. If the two match then you should be good, otherwise you will need to swap the crankshaft and drivers side camshaft gears from your original engine onto the JDM engine

I remember reading a multiple page thread on another forum about a misfire (#4) that the guy changed every part in the car. Car had the head gaskets changed previously by some shop so the shop was reluctant to take the heads off. Eventually they did take the heads of and found a burnt #4 exhaust valve. Definitely something to remember if you get a misfire that isn't solved with NGK/OEM wires, NGK Plugs and an OEM coil.

But all those diagnostic plugs, that’s a whole new world to look into. Boy they put a lot into these cars. There are lots of people when working on their cars see those two plugs not connected and assume that they should be then get very concerned when fans start running, clicking noises in the passenger compartment and the Check Engine light comes on

Sounds like my wife's 2004 Ford Explorer 7 seats or luggage, pick one

AMSOIL Options

From Valvoline

I ended up buying 4qts of the Subaru ATF-HP as I figured the cost difference between that and a generic fluid was way cheaper than a new transmission. I've heard some people use an Amsoil or Valvoline product but I don't have any good references to say they are compatible. I believe the Subaru ATF-HP is made by Idemitsu Type HP Automatic Transmission Fluid that is available at some Auto Parts stores but is same price as Subaru ($8 a quart)

I use the Raybestos coated rotors as well (I hate when the uncoated ones look rusty). Thanks for the tip on the Bosch pads and the new calipers

I think they are generally called locating dowels rather than piston pins.

Try looking at http://opposedforces.com and look for a European version with the EJ20

Here are the details from Subaru https://subaru.oemdtc.com/80/engine-oil-consumption-2013-2015-subaru 100k miles/8 years

Did this job on the wife's 2004 Ford Explorer and the rears are available as an assembly (knuckle, brake backing plate and hub). Wish I had known that before I bought all the parts individually.

Interesting. Had my son do this job at the dealer and he said they only use the Hubshark for the rears? I have done the job on about five or six bearings with the Harbor Freight tool and other than one misfortune with trying to press the bearing out the wrong way that wrecked the bolt it works amazingly. The car involved is a 99 with 540k miles so when it dies again probably will scrap the car since it has a number of body issues and rust.

What side is it? I have a rebuilt drivers side including new bearing, seals, ball joint and wheel hub. Also has ABS tone ring installed. Should fit 95-99 for sure

Only thing I have found that works is either a oxygen/acetylene torch or a special ball joint puller. http://www.company23.com/products/subarutools/532 You can try soaking it with AeroKroil or other rust penetrant but your success may vary. Sometimes using a chisel to open up the split assuming you got the entire pinch bolt out. Some have had good luck using an air hammer.

Swap the coil. Had a similar issue on two other cars and in both cases the coil change fixed it. Don't use an aftermarket one though.

Not sure if this applies to your engine but do the original engine and replacement engine have the same trigger points on the Crankshaft and drivers side Cam Gear?

Check the What This Fits tab https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2003_Legacy-30L-AT-4WD-Outback-Wagon/SENSOR-ASSEMBLY-CRANKSHAFT/49231363/22053AA071.html Legacy, Outback, Tribeca of various years 2001-2017