Mike104

Is the dome light burnt out? Does the door ajar indicator work when each door is opened/closed. Evap code could be many things. Post which one it is for better suggestions

Need to make this a sticky so GD doesn't have to keep reposting this info

Similar posts have been made and the fix is always the brake light switch or it's adjustment. If still under warranty take it to a dealer to get fixed. It's a known issue.

Try getting a used Subaru one from a pull and pay yard. Make sure the suction line has a strong clamp on it

Get a used Subaru coil from an Auto wrecker but change the spark plugs and wires (NGK only) first. Don't drive it or you will toast your Catalytic Converter (misfires put unburned fuel into the cat destroying the catalyst)

I don't know if WA state has emissions inspections or if they check for codes/monitors not ready during testing. If not, ignore the EGR issue if they do then a work around for the EGR will need to be installed. I do seem to recall where others had done a rework that did not involve drilling and tapping the cylinder head, but don't recall the method.

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it"

Fuji Bond is way cheaper at Nissan dealers

The piece of mind knowing the job is done right will be worth the extra effort to remove the oil pump now

I generally take some over the counter pain medication BEFORE I start doing anything too strenuous these days

Is Fairbanks far enough north to have periods of no daylight? Or is it just really short (or really long) daylight! I remember being in Anchorage in the summer and the sun was still out at like 1130pm

NGK plugs only

My 03 Forester has the stub shaft built as part of the axle so no worries. Getting that roll pin out on jack stands is a bear.

It's usually where the connecting rod attaches to the crankshaft. The overheat damages the bearings and they wear quickly resulting in excessive clearance and hence the rod knock. Just keep driving it till it dies. Then throw in a used EJ2.2L engine and it will run forever.

China and Taiwan are the two things to avoid in timing components. Koyo, NTN and NSK are the preferred supplies. Ask him it he will pay for the engine damage if one of his idlers/tensioner die. Probably not an issue as you will likely have rod knock from massive overheat in the next few thousand miles anyway.

98 should have the DOHC. You will know your head gaskets are gone when the overflow tank is boiling over.

Change the oil too. If overheated enough possible issues could be rod knock or head gaskets. Yours will likely fail sending exhaust gases into the overflow bottle.

I think the only downside of taking out the stub shaft is the possibility of breaking the spring clip inside the transaxle. But I have done it both ways without much issue on my 99

Check the part number for your car here www.parts.subaru.com It may be the correct part number but best to confirm using your car information/VIN at the above website You may also need washers and nut for that bolt plus the lower lateral link bushings. If you scroll down to the bottom of that amazon page it shows you the additional items to add (two bushings).

My favorite lateral link bolt video http://<div style="position:relative;height:0;padding-bottom:56.21%"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/w7rYxh0XWuA?ecver=2" style="position:absolute;width:100%;height:100%;left:0" width="641" height="360" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>

In the video he ended up using some spray lube and kept going at it for way too long with the impact. The nut came off no problem but I couldn't budge it with my 24" breaker bar so I ended up using a cutoff wheel. The knuckle was hosed anyway (elongated hole where lateral link bolt passed through) so I was prepared with all new parts that I used.

Sadly that happens many times at least here in North America. Car is deemed to expensive to fix (paying for shop rate) but too nice for a crusher. Often they get sold to auto wreckers, stripped of parts and then crushed. Often I see cars with bad engines/transmissions that an individual could have fixed and had a nice car much cheaper than buying new one. Always amazes me that people will abandon a car because it needs a couple of thousand dollars in repairs and then turn around and spend 10's of thousands on a new car

The FSM used to show a special tool set and using a press with the knuckle off the car. There was a TSB many years ago and a specially designed tool called a Hub Shark that uses a screw press. The main issue can be the lateral link bolt. Sometimes it's easy (like Superoo said) and sometimes its difficult like in this video http://<div style="position:relative;height:0;padding-bottom:56.21%"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/w7rYxh0XWuA?ecver=2" style="position:absolute;width:100%;height:100%;left:0" width="641" height="360" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe></div> A lift and a torch makes this job much easier.

The fitting GD posted should fix the P0420 code. I have a similar fix on two of my older Subaru's that had P0420 codes. Personally I wouldn't spend $$$$ for a catalytic converter on a 98 car. Usually on these cars the P0420 code gets triggered when the Aft O2 sensor voltage goes over 0.8V this fix puts the rear O2 sensor further out in the exhaust stream lowering the voltage and getting rid of the P0420 code. Exhaust leaks can also trigger this code.

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