Mike104

Yep learned that one the hard way too!

Check the voltage at the small wire on the starter when cranked.

Getting another car is likely the easiest option. Best to buy a whole car to swap parts from. Try www.car-part.com to see what years/models are compatible.

Does it get more noticeable above a certain speed? Usually wheel bearings start making noise about 30-40mph (at least mine did). Apparently the Right Rear is the worse culprit on that model era. (I've changed 3 of 4 on my '03 Forester)

You may already know this (readiness monitors not set) https://dmv.ny.gov/brochure/what-do-you-mean-my-cars-not-ready

From another post Subaru recommends the following conditions and drive cycle to get the monitors on its vehicles completed in the shortest amount of time: 1. Make sure the fuel tank is between one-quarter and three-quarters full; half a tank is ideal. 2. Start the engine and immediately drive the vehicle for at least 15 minutes at a speed greater than 50 mph. During the warmup, try to avoid sudden acceleration, hard braking and/or lane changes. 3. Drive the vehicle at a steady 55 mph for three more minutes. During this stage of the drive cycle, it's crucial that you keep throttle angle changes to a minimum. 4. Bring the vehicle hack to the shop, hook up the scan tool and look at the status of the readiness monitors. Repeat the drive cycle, if necessary.

Too bad I don't still live in SLC

"Later 2000+ EJ25's are better as they usually don't randomly overheat but leak extenerally so they're easy to plan ahead for a repair and not get stranded. so they're a better option for reliable, long term, high mileage commuting." Especially if you routinely check the oil and radiator for coolant level!

I believe it is still plastic. Many don't loosen the nut that holds the pulley before trying to adjust the long bolt and snap the plastic bits. My dealer stocks them. Dorman kit is a good option. I take that back, since they say parts are powder coated the adjuster may be metal

Easy fix

So the takeaway is to buy two extra keys when you get one of these types of cars with the immoblizers? What year did this become standard?

Your turn signals could be the fuse (but I think the same fuse is for the turn signals/parking lights?) or the flasher.

Thanks for using it!

There is a reverse switch and a Neutral switch. Both are on the side of the MT. I seem to recall that the switches have different colored connectors but can't recall which one is which color. It's the rear one https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru__/49242870__6027485/MT--REAR-CASE/B11-120-01.html

Yeah that made me buy new stuff to have on hand and I needed it all. I don't have a lift or air compressor so I definitely was glad to have seen how bad it could be. Hand tools were not going to get mine apart.

Auto parts store alternators are not that good. A used Subaru one is often better.

Used to do that on airplane spark plug changes on small piston powered aircraft. Now we just toss the $1,000 +igniter with the gasket in the trash for jet engines. http://www.skygeek.com/champion-ch34630-igniter.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_content=champion-ch34630-igniter&utm_campaign=froogle&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpMmG-rCF2QIVj4zICh2tewouEAkYCSABEgLD6fD_BwE

You could always spray some silicone spray on the edge of the door or even car wax would help. The ice remover spray works great too.

Just make sure you push the bearing out in the correct direction. An electric or pneumatic impact makes this job much easier!

The short and sweet version above by GD. Here is the long version https://subaru.oemdtc.com/80/engine-oil-consumption-2013-2015-subaru/4

According to this guy it was pre 2010 for the Outback https://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-repair/ Main problem with these is that some get overheated multiple times and eventually have rod knock, usually after spending a bunch of $$$ or time replacing head gaskets. If it was an SOHC engine it may be an external leak (oil or coolant). The EJ25D (DOHC) engines were prone to exhaust leaks into the cooling system. Best gasket to use is the Turbo one 11044AA770 from Subaru, its a Multi-Layer Steel gasket.

If it's misfiring I would suspect plugs/wires/coil rather than an ECU but that's just my uneducated opinion

The O-Ring PN for the Elbow fitting is 34439FG000 https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2007_Impreza-Sedan-25L-AT-4WD/_54100_6027967/OIL-PUMP-PUMP-04MY-/G11-348-05.html You may be able to remove the O-ring and take it to a parts store to match it rather than buying the $2 part from Subaru

Subies prefer OEM coils and NGK wires (not Durac*ap parts). If its having trouble starting in cold weather it could be your coolant temp sensor since that adds fuel when its a cold start Could also be a slipped timing belt (was your timing belt service done at 105k miles?) That's just my uneducated opinion.

Pretty much a state by state thing. You can deduct those taxes on your IRS tax return. According to the IRS (IIRC) they can go back 7 years to audit your return. I believe if they can prove intentional tax avoidance they can go back forever.