Mike104

I have a used drivers side knuckle with new ball joint, bearing and hub available that should fit your car (has mounting point for ABS sensor).

My issue was the valve would not return to open position even with the cable disconnected causing the brakes to drag and heat up. I was able to force the valve to the open position and locked it there with a tyrap as a precaution.

In theory weak brake hoses could cause an issue but those tend to harden with age not get softer so not sure if that is anything to worry about. If they are original calipers the pistons may be seized or binding that would cause your issue but should show up with pads that have little wear. May want to bite the bullet and get new calipers if you can't break the pistons free

Better picture with tyrap

I believe this is in the open position. I just used a tywrap to hold it here. No spring required. Not sure what you mean for the Clutch Return Spring. There is one for the pedal and one for the shift linkage. The clutch pressure plate actually returns the clutch.

Is the wheel fully against the hub? I don't understand what you are saying. Maybe post a photo

Definitely more to torquing head bolts than the torque value. FSM probably easier to find for most Internet users than a machinist handbook. Some experienced people can accurately use that source but FSM has the torquing procedure as well as the values in one place. I work in the aviation industry where the most accepted source is the Aircraft Maintenance Manual. The FAA frowns upon using any sources other than that. I do enjoy working on my car much better than airplanes, way less paperwork involved.

I had the same issue. Had to modify the 1" pipe to take the PCV valve and then run the line from the PCV valve to the Intake

Mine is secured in the open position with the cable disconnected. I just used some cable ties to hold it open

You can find some FSMs here http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

ABS does not really have much impact if not working it really only prevents wheel lock up. Bleeding, bad master cylinder and proper brake pad bedding are the best solutions to brakes. I find my older Subaru's to need more pressure compared to the 2017 Impreza rental I had the other day. Just about put my manager through the windshield when I stepped on the brake pedal as hard as I do on my car.

No tone rings means no ABS which is why the light is on

Reposted the link to the YouTube video

95 Legacy Cradle PN is 20151AC040 or 20151AC050 98 FORESTER PN 20151FA112 or 2015FA113

Use http://opposedforces.com to verify interchangeability of parts. I believe the Forester is based on the Impreza platform

The flat bottom oil pan is the USDM one

I would say most of the Subaru's in the rust belt or areas where they use a lot of salt have that rust spot, some on both sides.

The speedo was probably replaced at some point (to bring it into the US?)

Usually they only add Kilometer priority speedometers and DRLs for Canadian market. May be best to call a dealer in Canada and see if they can answer the question. Does it have a 3.0L with VDC?

Another option for a service manual

Hill Holder deactivation

I did not have an oil cooler on my original 2.5L 2003 Forester and did not put one on the EJ20

https://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=18135 http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f77/3-pin-alternator-2-pin-car-159953/

"the other half has an 06 LL Bean Outback with the H6, and he can squeeze 30mpg out of it if he tries, but he drives like a 90yr old grandpa most of the time, LOL" Now don't talk bad about us old folks