Mike104

For the rough idle it may have to relearn the idle speed as the battery was most likely disconnected and removed.

And even better you came back to tell us what the issue was so we can all learn!

^ What GD said. If you are feeling all Subaru the OEM part number is 45119AC001 J-Nut. $2 each from your local dealer. You can try here: http://cliphouse.com/MetricUJNuts.aspx

I would love to have my resident Subaru mechanic (youngest child) do the job but he is too busy with GF, new dog, friends, etc. to work on my car I may just take it in to the dealer and get the family discount to get it done. A much easier job on a lift instead of on the garage floor (with my 60+ year body)!

If it does it when warm (after driving) it could the the Center Differential in the MT extension (also known as a Viscous Clutch). I have the same issue on an 03 Forester with 5MT. Does yours have the 5MT or the 6MT

I know many with the 4EAT have had success using TransX ATF additive but I don't know if that will work for your AT.

So others feel the issue is likely the Viscous Coupling (AKA Center Differential) in the Tail Extension (PN 38913AA102) Main issue is the front wheels 'Hop' when making right turns at slow speed after driving at highway speeds, similar to torque bind on Auto Transmission. Used 5MT are between $500 + shipping and $1,000. A new VC is around $500. I think best to spend a few $$ to get it diagnosed correctly at my local Subaru dealer or independant shop (he works at same Subaru dealer) to decide whether to replace MT or VC

Start here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113645-how-to-read-abs-codes/ Download this for the TS flow for your code: https://subaruport.ru/for1/for_01_chas_11.pdf

I know some have said aftermarket alternators are not good on Subaru's. Perhaps get one from a pull and pay yard instead of the POS auto part store one. Check brake fluid quantity too

Getting the codes is the first step, no point throwing parts at it until you know why the ABS light is on. There is a procedure to install a jumper and count the ABS light flashes to get the code but that relates to the code. Again it all depends on the year/model of your son's car.

Here is another pic. Disconnect the plug, one 10mm bolt and it should come out

It is on the front of the engine on top of the Oil Pump (the orange thing)

Thanks for the guidance on OF. Seems there are MY specific 5MT for '03/'04/'05 and then a newer version midway though '05 up to '07.

I would change the CPS first as it's much easier and cheaper than a fuel pump. Fuel pumps usually work/not work IMO.

The opposed forces site lists a TY755VC5AA for '03 Dec to '05 Mar for effectivity. My '03 MY has a TY755VC3AA transmission installed and opposed forces has no listing for that transmission number. My car was manufactured 10/2002. I checked www.car-part.com and it lists only MY '03 for my transmission. Does anyone have any experience in putting in a 5AA to replace a 3AA MT or know what the differences are between these? Thanks

Good to know about the CA cars (makes me not really want to live in CA or buy a CA emissions car )

My check engine light was an evap code and a misfire. The misfire was fixed by a used coil and I replaced the Valve back by the charcoal cannister to fix the evap code

Was changing my right rear wheel bearing on my 03 Forester the other day (replaced left side previously). Found lockwashers between the tone wheel and the hub? Bolt to hold ABS sensor was replaced with a self tapping screw and the ABS sensor was JB welded into the backing plate. I tried removing the sensor but no luck. Fortunately I was changing the brake back plate and just disconnected the ABS sensor underneath the rear seat. Drove for a couple of days with the ABS light on (sensor not connected). When I got the Backing plate/ABS sensor out I noticed the sensor was bent. Ordered a new sensor and installed it with no issues. Now everything is right on the dash (no nagging lights). I inherited this car from my son and it had an Airbag light, Check Engine Light and Oil light at idle. Fixed all those and got the Bluetooth working on the radio he installed. Also connected the Blue Power Antenna wire to power the antenna booster (radio antenna in window). I really hate driving cars with idiot lights on!

Dealer tested other side control arm (tool used for control arm recall) and it passed. Alignment done and back on the road!

Not from a Subaru but mine was worse than this as the front bushing mount essentially departed from the control arm. The sway bar link also broke. Fortunately I was only a short distance from home.

It was rusty. Had a replacement one on hand to change it but my resident Subie tech (youngest son) said it was "too short" when he tried to install it. It was on my list of things to do but didn't get to it. I was able to install it without issue. Car is currently at dealer for ball joint replacement and alignment. I have requested they check the other side.

Yes it was the original control arm (18 yrs and 485k miles)

Did what Larry suggested (removed drive axle from car, and removed stub shaft from drive axle). Axle seal was good so I reinstalled the stub shaft with a long piece of wood and a hammer. Popped right in! Control arm in and all back together. Cleaned and lubed brake caliper slides and pads clips while I was there. Just needs an alignment and I should be good to go.

My son works at a Subaru dealer and when they do a short block or HGs under warranty (not as common these days) they also order a engine gasket kit and replace what they need. I have picked up a few gaskets from the left overs when I visit him.

Sadly the car was sold