singletrack

I was under the impression there was another piece to go between the rear x-member and the front of the rear diff so it would hang level. That's what was indicated in the "comparison" thread. Behold my vbulletin formating skills:

The front hanger for the rear diff. :-p

Just tell the guy it's an '84. Don't make 'um think anymore than they have to.

Yeah my housemate has an 86 hatch, and they try to give him ea-82 parts all the time. The overlap when both engines/bodies were produced and sold really fuks with the parts guys. Especially since, say, an 86 Hatch and an 86 Wagon could both be reffered to as an "86 GL". Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression that the VIN 5 car is ea82, and the VIN 4 car is EA81?

I dunno how I missed this thread.... What does the front diff hanger look like!?!!

That's a great shot! The internet is a funny thing; I'm starting to recognize individual cars on another continent that I'll never see in real life. :cool:

2 Fires twice? Geez, that's what I've been doing wrong! j/k Seriously, all the wires, timing stuff is correct. The good folks that built my motor think there is likely a valve issue, and are going out of their way to make it right. So thanks all for the replies, but I guess it was out of my hands the whole time...

Nothing would make me happier than it simply being the t-belt. I used the USRM article to do the belts. It went like this: Set the fly wheel to the three marks, turned driver side pulley so the dot was up, installed belt, set the tensioner. Then cranked till the dot was down on that side, flywheel came back round to the three marks, and put the pass side pulley with the dot up and installed that belt. Here's the thing, none of the articles or threads I've read say anything about compression stroke, they just say line up the 3 marks. Soooo.... Does that mean I din't turn the crank 360? Ie; when I'm turning the crank to bring the drivers side dot DOWN, I should turn past the down position and keep turning till it's pointing down again? When the 3 timing marks come up, which cyclinder should be compressing? 2? I'll go try that regardless....

OK, I got a compression tester. Ready for this? 1: 80 2: 110 3: 70 4: 100 Whoo-boy, I'm glad I got a new engine. Did I mention it ticks like a mofo? The motor has about 5-600 miles on it. Opinions?

I've also bent mine, a result of stuffing the car into a rock.

B1tched out I believe. See what Dave doesn't know here is that I've been putting smoke bombs in his muffler. It's a special type of smoke bomb designed to ignite only in the Colorado National Monument. As for the oil in the pipe, I had to lube it up a bit so the bombs would slide in there. Seriously, I've wittnessed this, and if you were driving behind the hatch when it did it you would surely crash. I think it's more Spy Hunter than James Bond.

I don't need a turret, I've got a bigazz hole in my roof! Mount the gun off the foward cross bar on the roof rack, and the gunner can stand on the bed, use the tire for a back rest. Come to think of it, I'm gonna need smoke screen and oil slick too. Oh wait, oil slick is a standard feature on Subies.

Skid plates that cover the y-pipe!!! Also, since you sell armaments and all, I'd like a roof mounted .50 and rockets that shoot out of my grill.

Coolant Temp sensor, O2 sensor are both new, and the TPS is in spec with the FSM. I'd say it runs best just before it gets fully warmed up.

I've sprayed carb and starting fluid around, that's how I found the egr leak. Nothing at the intake ports, which have new gaskets btw. I'll go do some more spraying, got nothing else to try today.

The long block only has 400 miles on it. I can check it just for fun though.

OK here's where I'm at There's definetly spark over there. Resistance on the 1/3 wires is a bit higher, but that's just cause they're longer, right? I tested a bunch of other random wires that were laying around too, and mine seem ballpark. These are cut-to-length accell superstock wires (all that was available) and I crimped the ends on with an actual crimping tool I switched the wires just for fun and the engine started then died (when I gave it gas). I tired the pass t-belt a tooth in both directions to no effect. I put them back where I had um, which looks the most correct. I've attached pics of where it's set. I don't have another disty to try. I can time then engine effectively, so maybe that's not it anyway? Like I said above the plugs on the bad side were white, before I touched the belts / removed the egr. Could it be some kind of fuel delivery problem? I was thinking of getting the fuel pressure checked. Filter is new.

Well, couldn't a severe vac leak on the pass side of the intake keep that side from getting gas? My point being, I removed the egr and did the belts at the same time. Maybe it ran crappy before cause of the vac leak, and runs similarly crappy now casue I screwed up the belts. Why am on the internet when I should be in the driveway?

Hey I'm pretty slow, but I'm not a moran. /Quietly checks the wires... Well, that's the thing. Spark plugs were white on that side, brown on the other. I'm pretty dam sure there isn't a vaccum leak now that my egr valve is in the trash.... I'm gonna go out now and recheck the pass side t-belt, I guess that does really make the most sense.

That's what I used to do them. Also, the belts were intially setup by the builders, I only redid them when I pulled the covers off. Car ran the same before and after. Doesn't mean they were right, but it would seem so...

Well, I considered the belts but all the marks line up, or seem to to my inexperienced eye. I've checked the timing about 100 times.

The saga continues. Here's the deal. 88 SPFI. New long block, new everything else for the most part. Car runs great at speed, has wongleflute for power right off idle. When I pull the wires on 1 and 3 at idle, nothing happens. If I pull 2/4, engine stumbles and dies. Above idle the motor is sloppy with 1/3 disconnected, so it seems those two are firing at higher rpm. I haven't verified spark on that side besides the fact the timing light works on #1 and I've electrocuted myself over there a few times. I'm 99.9% sure there isn't a vaccum leak. It's not throwing any codes. I've tried a few different caps and wire sets, also rotated the plugs between the cylinders to no effect. So could I have a bad distributor? Any other suggestions are aprreciated.

How are the Liberators not a first choice? They've got burly sidewalls and a wide tread. That's all you need here in the SouthWest. Granted most of you do not experience similar conditions, but for me I have yet to see a better suited 14" tire. The ridiculously cheap price is a bonus, too.

I've got a vaccum leak at the EGR valve. I tried the valve off my parts car, and it also leaks. So, I was reading that some people have just put a plate over the port, and plugged the vac line. Is there any reason I shouldn't do this? No emmissions testing here, btw. Oh yeah, it's SPFI.

So I broke my oil pump, broke the pressor sensor socket off, so the housing of the pump is trashed. This oil pump has less than 500 miles on it. I've got a pump on the parts car, and the diagram of the pump in Haynes book looks pretty simple. So.... I'm thinking I can just use the parts in the new but broken pump to rebuild the used one. Provided I'm careful, will I be able to pull the seals and re uses them? The diagram makes it look like I could pop out the shaft seal with a socket. I realize the seals are cheap, but if I can use what I've got that's better.