singletrack

That's how I did mine.

I like it. Both the pics and the fundraising.

I was just kidding. It's one of my responsibilities as resident wise-rump roast.

OK guys, let's keep it friendly. The correct term is combustionally challenged.

Some pretty wicked terrain down there in Dallas, huh?

So the wheels did it? I like those better anyhow.

I'd tell you all about how much I like my inexpensive 14" Liberators, but I don't think there are any WalMarts in Australia!

My friend has Cherokee on 33's that's been rolled a couple times.... he put spinner hubcaps on it - hilarious.

The bolt that attaches the extension to the strut runs through the lower strut bushing, does it not? I would think that will still do the job of damping vibrations and such.

Screw that, I'm gonna do curtains! Any car that sleeps 2 is pimp enough for me. Actually I was gonna do HEAVY tint on the back three, but it would kinda kill the "open" effect of the ragtop. On my van, I had unwanted windows on the side barn doors, so I rattlecanned them gloss black, then insulated and covered the inside with masonite. G'd up ricers always commented on how it was the darkest tint they'd ever seen.

Man that's harsh, isn't it? I mean, if you drive to work and your cars broke, you can always catch a ride or take the bus or ride a bike.... But on pizza duty, you're always throwing it together at the last second, or driving around with no brakes hoping it'll hold together for 7.5 more hours. Being able to take "shortcuts" through the desert always made it worth it!

I used to deliver pizza in mine! Otherwise I try to ride my bike as much as possible.

Ya think?

Heh, I just sent Shady a pm a few days ago with this idea... I was thinking a 5x6x1 piece of aluminum between the carrier and diff. Knock out the welded carrier bolts, replace with longer ones. Coupled with 1" mustache bar blocks, the diff will sit level. One could do those three spacers at 2" to preserve some cv angle, still gain diff clearance. Still as long as the diff is full, and the fill hole is abopve the pinion bearing, I really don't see how that bearing would be running dry. I haven't tried it, others have... so what do I know.

Definetly. It had the moonroof and and I think the digi dash. Don't remeber anything special about the seats... but I haven't seen it in a while. The wheels are painted to match the car, everything is fire engine red, but doesn't look repainted. Still has the "full time 4wd" graphics and whatnot. I'll take pics the next time I it see it if I can.

Here's a question for you guys.... There's a car I see here in town occasionally. It's a red 4-door GL-10T with the RX bodykit, Fulltime DR. How is it different than an RX at that point?

Well you see I was running over this Honda doin' 50.... j/k. For me, the trouble comes whilst crawling on big rock ledges. Here's that old video clip showing exactly what I'm talking it about. The bang you hear is my x-memeber hitting the rock. You can watch the forward lift block bend, and tweak that 12x180 back about an inch on the rear x-member.... That bolt runs through the big round bushing so the bushing sorta prevents further damage. I could certainly drive out, but how many times can I bend it all back before the unibody fails? Anyway, with an AA style lift, the tires would have contacted the ledge first, not the undercarriage! The ledge in that clip is pretty big, but it's par for the course out here. "Taking it easy" isn't an option!

It's not a problem on EA81's, but on 82's the cross member hangs down in front of the wheels with a BYB lift. I bent mine up the very first time I took it out, and pretty much every time since. Unfortunetly I've gotten very good at fixing it. One could armor it up, I know that's what a few guys have done, but that's kinda a bandaid fix, and limits the usuable wheel surface. I removed the foward lift block altogether and modifed things a bit to minimize the issue, but I get hung up nonetheless. The extra diff clearance on the AA lift is nice, but I feel the real advantage is the work around of this problem. Not only that, but having the x-member in the stock location, bolted directly to the body is undoubtably going to be stiffer and stronger. On an ea81, I think there's only 4 blocks (two per side) on the "tube". On an EA82 there are 10! That's weaksauce. Anywho, like I said it's not a problem on EA81's, so maybe you haven't had as much firsthand experience with it...?

Thanks, you too. Those guys are OK, they're just messin' around.

Well, yer gonna hack up your front fenders regardless for big tires, a little trimming in the back is well worth it to never have to worry about tearing off your rear crossmember. If you BYB lift your EA82, you will learn what a design flaw really is. Still, I think that's a little suspect, but what ya gonna do? It's certainly the better of two evils.

Yikes. I guess the dry-rotted ones will do for now. I'll hafta poke around the junk yards, maybe make some Frankenstruts.

It was like 2nd lo, I swear! Seriously, I just caught it at the "perfect" angle. It's not like I was going fast enough to spill my beer or anything. Definetly took out the pump though, snapped the pressure sender off and took a piece of the pump housing with it. Also cracked a T belt cover, bent the pitch stopper, dented the pan, and totally polluted the trail. :-\ Anywho, I tried to set mine up without the spacer when I fixed it, and the plate was touching the pressure sender and oil pan. That's no good, it's not doing jack then. Even with the spacer there's only like 1/2" of clearance in there.

Yee-haw! Another subie-offroad milestone for me. Note to self, running the Tabegauche with 5 people in the car is a bad idea. It's not that exciting really, the 20 year old dry rotted rubber thingy at the top just gave out. I drove it out and a back home a few miles in x-treme camber mode. Some guy in a big 4Runner asked me if I'd been jumping it when I pulled up at a light... It's just as well, prefect excuse to pull the adjustables of the parts car, but the rubber on those is already cracked pretty good, so they'd likely fail in short order. So... Can I get just the top cap/rubber thingy? I think the rest of the adjustable struts are fine, they've only got 180k on um. Also, is that what you long time offroaders would call a typical failure for a 17 year old strut? I know it just happened to RavenTBK, I recall seeing pics of a few others.

I redrilled the spacer and stuck it back on with 3 14mm thread bolts and big ol' washers; it's definetly stronger now than it was. Neccessity is the mother of invention, as the original mounting point/capitve nuts no longer exist. Her's my plan though, since EA82s have the swaybar in front of the control arms.... I removed the sway bar long ago, and it left two solid mounts on the cross member... I'm going to build a chin guard off those mounts that should be able to cover the y-pipe. I might even be able to incorparate a bushing in there to suck up future impacts. Any EA82 abusers try that yet?

What's a Subaru?