singletrack

Cool, just in time! You should drive it down here to pick up those wheels, and we can do a pre-Moab shakedown in Bangs.

3/16th punch, e10 Torx. Big hammer, lotsa zip ties Hey I got one of these toolboxes from Sears. They're $10, fit in the the tool chest/smuggler's compartment great, and you can pack a ton of stuff. I keep basically every tool I use on my car in mine, and theres still more room. They're 22" long, small enough that's there room left under the floor for a jack, two axles, breaker bar, tire iron, and a qt of oil. It's not nearly full here:

Hey I've had mine out on some extensive slickrock here in GJ, and the tires were more than willing to let out a satisfying "chirp" when turning. Made some tight lock-to-lock turns, etc. Time will tell, but it seems fine. Also seems logical to me that gassing it helps.... not over doing it of course, but enough to break the rear loose a little more. The more it chirps, the easier it is on the axles I would think. But what do I know, I've only been welded a month. This was on white rock, not the super high traction orange stuff. But close.

It's my understanding that putting Grateful Dead stickers on a car actually reduces top speed and reliability. /miss ya Jer.

There's only SPFI car in the all the junkyards in Junction! It's down offa S 5th... It's a 90 4x4 with a bad 3AT, but the y-pipe was rotted. Aparently the guys there used to race a Hatch in Tough-Truck competitions! They got a kick outa the wagon. Anyway, a local muffler shop said $35 to do the job. More than twice what I paid to have my diff welded, but not bad. BTW, anyone know what the thread pitch is for our 02 sensors?

Try that. Alot of times my 88 won't turn over via the starter, though typically at high altitude. If you can roll start it, that'll really narrow down the possible causes. Rolling it will get the engine turning faster than the starter can, maybe it just needs some help getting gas. Here's a REAL easy way to test your starter. Crank it in gear with the p-brake off. If the car moves, then the starter is good! There can be nothing wrong with the starter, and it still won't wanna turn over. I usaually drive it up a hill on starter power, then pop the clutch in reverse as I'm rolling back down. Works like a charm. Good luck finding a hill in Dallas though. Two strong dudes can push it fast enough to start. Edit: That's won't work on an Auto, BTW.

Thanks guys, that's kinda what I figured.

My FI y-pipe is all dented from playing horse with the Jeeps in Bangs Canyon. I've got a good y-pipe from my carbed parts car, if there was some way I could use it that would be convienient.

So yer back now? Have you given any more thought to Moab Subaru Safari? You can fix anything in three weeks!

I'll have my bike as well, I can't go to Moab and leave it at home. Even if I don't end up riding trails there's always the late night campfire jump! Big Bend is pretty easy to find, it's a BIG BEND in the river 7.5 miles from 191

The speedometer trick was hilarious! It's early and I haven't had any coffee yet and was briefly astonished.

That'll work real well I'd say. We could do Top of the World while we're out that way and wouldn't hafta come into town on Sat morning, provided we all had enough gas.

I'd say (and not just cause I live here) that there is no better weather on Earth than Moab in spring. 70-80^ with blue skies is pretty much the rountine. Moab in fall is also good. Or the middle of winter. Summer ain't too shabby either. This is October I think:

Woohoo! Nevermind all that. I'm not sure what I did excatly, but I checked the timing for 100th time and for whatever reason it was way off from where it's been consistenly up till now:confused:. Fixed that, and it's all good. I'd say it's running pretty well now. It's still ticking though. I still need to do something with the air valve, buts that's been messed up since I got the car.

FWIW, I searched for every relevant thread and read them all. Read all the Haynes and FSM stuff too. <-Although it's easy to miss stuff in the .PDF version.

It's a much cooler name than Loyale as well. I want a bumper sticker that says, "You've been l30wn3d" ^^^^That might not translate very well, Lukas, unless internet slang is more universal than I thought.

I've got class and work on Fri, and need both the money and the grades. It's Friday night for me, assuming I have a running vehicle at that point. Sure as hell won't take it on the trail the way it is now. You should drop by on you're way through that Thursday though.

Where am I at? I'm about to push my friggin car into the river, that's where. I dunno about camping Fri night, but I'll prolly work until 6 before I head down, so if you're coming in that night I'll we can meet up and go down together. Since you goota drive through GJ anyhow. When are you coming down John?

OK, maybe you saw the other thread, but I just swapped in a reman'd long block on my 88 SPFI wagon and I'm having some issues. The car will idle, doesn't seem to be missing. Has no power right off idle. Major hesitation. Timing is good as far as I can tell. The car is driveable in a lousy way, and will do highway speed. First, a few months ago I was screwing around and moved the throttle stop set screw. I didn't like what it did so I moved it back and had no problems at the time. I'm thinking now it's biting me in the azs. How do I get it back to spec? Just look in the TB to see if the plate is closed? Second, to make it idle at 700, I gotta disconnect the air control valve. I've pulled it and cleaned, it seems to be moving freely but it won't cooperate. Idles at 1200 with the acv connected. If connecting it changes the engine speed, that means the soleniod is working right? And some other part of the car is making it run fast? Third, I just did a bunch of checks on the TPS, and everything seems in order, resistance and voltage changes are as expected.... everything seems OK except I don't know if that throttle stop is set right.:-\ Anyway the idle switch is on when it's supposed to be. Fourth, just to verify my timing, it's 20b at 700, whether the green connector is plugged in or not. It's the same at 1200 (ie when the air valve is hooked up). The green connector shuts off the electronic advance right? Well, if it's not (apparently) doing anything, is that bad? Is it possible for the disty to be off a tooth and still show correct timing with the light? Im not getting any unexpected codes from the computer...Just a 24 when I pull the acv plug. Plugs, wires are definetly correct, all filters and other disposables are new, and it has at least $2.50 worth of gas in it. Fuel pump was fine last week, I can hear it running now.

Uh, do you think they make one in 4x140?

For whatever reason our estemed moderators have chosen to bury the "new lift kit" thread. So here's a link for those that missed it, as I would have had someone not told me about it. I don't know anything about these kits or the people selling them, but folks come to this forum to learn about off-road Subarus, and information related to this subject should not be censored. Going so far as to delete the "moved thread" flag was pretty asinine, I must say.

No luck, but I haven't had any time to mess with it since yesterday. Oil that's in there is generic 10-40 from Walmart. I may try the ATF thing, as I'm running out of options. I guess I should verify the timing belts are correct as well, as I didn't install them myself. Of course, I figured I'd leave the covers on tilll warranty was up so that'll be a pain.

OK, timing is good. I had it set up a little advanced, like 25 or so, it's set to 20 now. Not bad for the first time with no timing light. I added a lil more oil, the ticking continues. I would say there is too much oil now, but I don't know what else to try. So, any more ideas?

Well, when I took it apart I realized there weren't really that many parts. It's a helluva lot more straightfoward than, say, inertia valves in mountain bike suspension. Nonetheless I labeled eveything and took lots of digi camera pics as I went along. Great thing with hi-res digi pics is being able to zoom way in; it's like a virtual tour of your engine bay. I also had my parts car sitting there, so I could compare. Although that car is carbed so it didn't help much - I'm pretty sure the spare tire is in the same place, that's about it. Aside from the timing I'm pretty dam sure I put it all back together right; like I says it runs at least as well as my old motor, besides the ticking that is. Exhaust has a good rhythm, I don't think it's missing a cyclinder or anything. It's got good ol' conventional oil in it now, and I'm off to checker for a timing light. I'll report back after I run over the first Honda. (Or Jeep)

I did, but I din't see anything about synthetic oil. Although I shoulda figured. Well, it's off to my local 24 hour Walmart for oil and a timing light! Thanks all Edit: It does actually say "Do not use synthetic". Whoops.:-\