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Oil pressure is at 45 when turning a few K. I'll get a timing light and do it right, but for now I just lined up the rotor with #1 at 20bdc. I replaced a few vaccum hoses as I went along, or in a couple instance cut off the cracked ends to get to good soft hose. I was pretty careful about the whole thing, and didn't see any obvious leaks. There weren't any a few day ago when I pulled the motor.

I finished swaping in my CCR motor today, and after a little fight with the disty I got it running. Which I think is pretty remarkable since I've never pulled an engine or done a clutch before, and had no guidance beyond this website. However, it's ticking like a mofo. Like my old motor did when it was thirsty for oil. But this one is full of fresh synthetic oil, and the oil pump is brand new. It's also idling pretty rough. Like shaking the car rough. Now, I just did the eyeball timing adjustment, but the thing is running so it can't be off that far. The T belts came installed, and installed correctly presumably. Anyway, it does highway speed, but it sounds like I'm killing it. I drove around for a while thinking the ticking would go away once oil really started ciculating, but after maybe 15-20 miles it's still doing it. So should I chalk this up to "break in" or is there something I should be looking at?

Since it's easiest to just run them both off the og wiring, that's prolly what'll happen at least for now. When I'm wheeling, I'm sure the temp switch will have them running the whole time anyhow.

That's the problem though. I wanna drive around at 5 mph in the desert. I do have a 105A GM alternator here though, perhaps I should do that mod. 20A is alot of power, you really think the fans suck down that much? I should hit up the classifieds for a double-row rad....

I'd like to do that, but it costs more than free. I think the second fan is gonna make a HUGE difference, I'll prolly wire um up so there always on as well. When I go wheeling now I just run the heat full blast with the vents pointed at the roof. Kevlar clutch would be great, but also outside my budget. Maybe when I've trashed this one in a few months.... O2 sensor is a damn good idea. Knew I forgot something.

Don't we all!

I'm in the middle of the swap, the old motor is out and the whole process has been pretty painless up to this point - except for bashing my knuckles a few times. So here's the deal. I'm replacing my 200k EA82 with a brand new CCR motor. I'm doing all the obvious tune-up stuff (cap/rotor/coil/wires/plugs/fuel filter) and putting in a new LuK clutch. I'm also removing the hill holder and power steering while I'm at it, swapping in a good radiator and adding a second electric fan. T-belt covers are coming off. It's already got a K&N air filter, and the t-stat is only about a year old. Oh yeah, I'm gonna clean the hell outa the engine bay. Bleh. Anyway, while everything is out and in front of me, what else should I do? Specifically, what about the SPFI stuff? Can I soak the throttle body in injector cleaner or something? How about a little de-emmisioning? Any random bits of wisdom are apreciated.

Cool thanks guys.

I'm in the middle of an engine swap, and I pulled the radiator outa my 86 carbed parts car, and I'm putting it in my 88 FI car. The 86's rad is just in better condition. Anyway, when pulled the rad out of the 86, it has these two little molded lines on it, which are circled in red in the pic. The rad outa the 88 has neither of these. The top line is capped, so it doesn't matter, but the lower isn't, and wasn't attached to anything on the 86. It wasn't leaking either. So what are those, and can I just ignore them?

There's room in the wagon for [more] dogs. People are welcome too. We may have to burn the Toyota in some sort of ritual bonfire though.

If not for the wagon wheels, I might not have even realized it was a Subaru!

I looked out the window the other night and saw this come through the McDonalds drivethru on a flatbed. Looks like they pushed it off a cliff before they burned it.

America's War Machine = EA82

I just did a pretty gnarly run (my first with the welded diff) and had nothing but cotter pins stuck through my axles. Believe me, I was working I was working the suspension past its limits and had no problems. Time will tell of course, but I think it's fine. Installing and removing axles took under 5 minutes, but even then it was a pain to unbend the cotters. If I can make the clevis pin work, installing should be like 2-3 min, and I prolly won't even hafta get under the car to pull the axle.

A tight fit in the cv cup yes, but the hole through the stub axle is much bigger than the roll pin. So the spline can slide around regardless. I am actually drilling out the pin holes on a spare axle right now so they'll fit the 1/4" clevis pins I got at Truevalue. I think it'll work good, but if doesn't you guys will be the first to know:drunk:

That depends on what part of PA yinz are in.

Taking the ignition siwtch apart = very easy. Old gen subaru = not secure at all

Just got my welded diff in today! Yeah, we all need to do a big mountain run this summer, too. That is, if yinz carbed cars can handle 14,000 feet or so. S'ko, you're still coming? I hope you can get your Brat running good. It's on 14's at least, right? Even if you bring the OBS there's some great stuff that you and yer wife will dig. Sweet82, you should try to make it! Jibs, ShawnW, Ratty2, BlueSoob, Offroadsubaruguy have all expressed some interest, as well as a few others... What's the word?

Nice, except I'd hafta un-bend to pull the axle. Still that's truly ghetto, and therefore belongs on my rig.

You can use a piece of all-thread with big nuts and washers to press them in.

Those are sweet! Good work.

How old is the car? Your locks are prolly worn enough that ANY subaru key will work. That's how I get Dustyrider's tools outa his hatch when he's not around.

I just broke my 3/16th punch and I was thinking about a better way. All those spring pins do is ensure the axle won't slide off the spline, so you could shove pretty much anything in there an it'd work. So, I'm thinking an appropriately sized bolt and a couple of nuts backed into each other would work,or even a bolt with a lil' hole drilled in for a R/C car body clip or the like. I'd choose a size that would ensure there's no slop, or even go a little small and put some rubber tubing around the bolt so it fit snug but comes out easy. The drilled bolt and clip would make pulling/adding an axle take like 10 seconds. Even with some nuts on there it'd be fast, I'd rather break out a couple of 12mm wrenches then lay in the dirt and beat on a roll pin. I'd keep the pins in the axle that stays put of course. The only hangup I can see is making sure the bolt (or whatever I use) clears the trailing arm as the axle spins. Anywho, I'm SURE I'm not the first to think of this, so somebody come and tell me it'll work. Or tell me it won't so I can try it anyway.

Well, like I said "Steel Bender" may not be the route I take on my bike when I ride "Flat Pass"..... or maybe my bike just makes everything too easy. I do think I know where yer talkin about now, though.... I should just go down there this weekend for recon. As well as I know the trails, it's just recently that I started to think about *driving* on them.

I was just putting my diff back together and thought of your post here.... could your ring gear be coming off?