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Subruise

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Everything posted by Subruise

  1. hey brian welcome to usmb. and you are right, you will be here often RV
  2. SUP! welcome aboard, whatcha drivin?
  3. in my opinion, having a car youve owned for awhile allows you to know its quirks/past problems/tendencies etc which i believe is more valuable than getting something a little lighter/rarer that you have limited knowledge of. ea81 wags are billy goats man......you should keep it RV
  4. welcome back, and go grizzlies! advice: take your time and read the directions thoroughly before starting the job:) RV
  5. ya, i was thinking that a ratio of 3.7 would yield less gass milage than a 3.9 but im new to converting diffs and if i was going to do a tranny swap itll have to be a dual range for sure. while ive got you on the "line" 'chux, could you clarify: my donor car is a sedan and my loyale is a wagon. im good right? thanx man Rob
  6. ya i think ill be keeping the push-button 4wd, it doesnt look that hard to make the lsd swap happen. plus, when i get stuck in fwd, i can put the car in 4wd and usually(especially w/lsd) get unstuck. if i get stuck w/awd/lsd im stuck. no bueno. Rob
  7. cool beans. found Qmans post on the swap. again thanx for the wheels Ken, havent gotten the other two yet but with the gl10 parts car in the garage I havent got time for them anyway. thanx again Jacob, im glad i didnt explode my stuff.
  8. thanx Jacob, I do have the tranny from the parts car but its a ft awd w/ center diff lock. im concerned with the drop in mpg that will come w/ powering all 4 all the time. also, my loyale does not have a center diff lock switch, not being able to lock isnt as big a concern as not knowing if that would be a problem. are there any threads on this? Rob
  9. i realize this is prolly a dumb question to ask, I have been searching for info for about an hour and a half now. If there is already a thread for this(im sure there is im just not finding it) can someone hook me up? Has anyone on here done the swap? id like to not find out by breaking something on my dd thanx Rob
  10. im planning on taking the lsd/complete rear susp. from my 88 gl10 turbo and putting it in my 91 loyale wag this weekend. the rear end on my loyale is 3.9. the lsd says 3.7. the suspension on the loyale is trashed and the camber sucks so im planning on just unbolting the sedans rear susp/struts/lsd/axels/disc brakes as one unit and bolting it to my wagon. Question the first: does it matter that im trying to put the sedan susp("tube" and everything) on a wagon? it looks the same but you never know til you know..... Question the second: is putting a 3.7 in the place of a 3.9 going to cause issues? Question the third: if there were to be an issue with swapping the aforementioned rear ends how can I fix it? my thanx Rob
  11. the door lock lite stays on unless the doors are locked. beware of lifter tick(tick of death), your operating temp sounds fine. mine(91 loyale spfi) runs around there. keep oil and water in it or youre screwed. If a ea82 overheats it has a tendency to warp the heads beyond reasonable repair. my .02 Rob
  12. welcome to the fold Jake. Ill never facebook/myspace but Im on here just as much. Subaru is a disease much like alcoholism......soon there will be more and more soobs in your life until at last your are blissfully engulfed..........enjoy Rob
  13. dagumn rotor came loose again:grin: prolly shoulda found the origional screw back when i lost it. pretty sure its in the xmember. luckily i have the gl10 parts car now and still have another disty. thanx for the help. to think, if I would have had a smaller screw-driver in my car I wouldve checked the rotor before going home and tearing off the tbelt covers/tensioners off the parts car. woohoo my motor still sounds like crap(but its running) Rob
  14. so Im driving home today 65-75mph. plenty of power coming from my 91 ea82 wagon (spfi) when I lost power. If youve seen any of my recent posts youd know that it has been pretty darn noisy on the drivers side of the engine for some time. a slipped timing belt had caused it to ping real bad for a week or two before i figured it out and fixed the timing. 1)What did I mess up while driving it like that? 2) If the noise was a lifter(which im not convinced it was, it was more like something was rubbing in the motor) are ea82t lifters/valves compatible with ea82? ne way, hopefully its just a tbelt:-\ and i can fix it on the freeway exit before it gets towed Thanx folks, Rob
  15. SUP. never seen a 1st gen lego look so good WELCOME Rob
  16. ok it just dawned on me that I had forgotten the formalities when I happened upon this site. Howdy......................my name is Rob I live in Puyallup WA and grew up on soobs. Ive talked to a bunch of you already but I feel like a douche for not introducing myself (like walking into someones house w/o knocking). anywho.....good to be here with like minded individuals Rob
  17. if you use a 22mm wrench to hold the shaft the fan is on, and remove the fan shroud(I never put mine back on, my car runs cold) and a long 10mm you should be alright. Rob
  18. seeeee..................and you were gonna sell off that fine piece of machinery good to see its goin
  19. well hopefully I can get it apart tonight after work (stripped stud to downpipe) then Ill be able to make a determination. Im getting worried that I might like this ea82t, how hard is it to swap out a ea82 for a ea82t? ill search too but just wanna keep the thread count low if I can
  20. ok so how much do you want for it and would you barter? I wasnt even considering getting a spool for it but I got it home tonight and EVERYTHING works. Im in a real conundrum here. I love my wagon. heres my dilema: The good: 1) only spent $250 on a running, driving car. 2) other than the cigarette lighter, one foglight, and the broken headlight switch its more or less friggin awesome(not counting turbositis). 3) only 138k, the timing belts/ v-belt were changed not too long before PO got a new soob and parked it, oil is CLEAN. 4) digidash(even tho they tend to suck) and the trip computer work. 5) interior is awesome for what it could be(it sat for a year). The bad: 1) paint sucks...peeling (who friggin cares, the dash works) 2) epic exhaust leak. I can feel wind from the back of the turbo before it goes into the expanded downpipe. I have yet to successfully remove the turbo due to a nut that either stripped or is spinning. I cant hear the turbo spool at all and it gets very hot after the car has been running in addition to the car puking when driven. 3) window seals dont look so good (power moonroof is fine) but I dont see any evidence of leaks. 4) shes a little rusty on the "fraimrails" and master cyl. The ugly: 1) the turbo/exhaust issue $$$$$$ 2) last but not least, this means giving up my beloved wagon, Im the 3rd person in my family to own it and it would totally kick @$$ if it had all the goodies from the gl10. please feel free to expound upon my babble with your own insight. Rob
  21. good call twitch, also I might add I use shorter bolts for the two on the bottom of the bell housing that are really hard to deal with. Ive used them for years now and as long as they are good bolts(ie machine quality) I dont see a problem with them. It makes the whole process faster (thanx dad) Rob
  22. http://www.sjrlift.com these guys can help you. or, if youre welder savvy.........buy some tubing and get to work. dont forget to drop the diff if you lift Rob
  23. hells to the yeah. this time last week I was lookin for lifters....... now I can do brake swap, fix toe/camber problem/lsd!!! not sure if loyale con queso will get the ft awd or not but if anyone needs body parts lemme know. Its charcoal colored and straight. now for the q's: the turbo isnt spooling. the car has sat for a year, runs good, bogs when throttle is applied. I need to drive it home 30mins or so. how to unstick turbo? :headbang::headbang:
  24. +1 nipper, I had the same issue(91 loyale spfi). then I read the instructions again. when you set the first timing belt you have to rotate the motor 360 degrees before you can set the second one. good luck dude Rob

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