jboymechanic

Buy a Haynes repair manual and it will explain the CEL code reading procedure. It will involve removing a plastic panel on your dash below the steering wheel where you will find a blinking light. The service manual will give more details, but you will have to count the total number of long and short blinks of the light (I'm not sure which blinks go first, long or short). For example, 4 long blinks and 6 short blinks would be CEL code 46. You'd then look that code up in the service manual and go from there.

You best bet is to pull the part needing to be replaced and finding the factory part number on it (if readable after years of service). If you ever order parts I would suggest partsgeek.com. I'm still very new to old Subarus but that website has very good descriptions of what parts are for various models with slight differences. For example, I have a EA82 turbo and I just ordered all of my ignition tune up parts there and they had all of the turbo specific components listed correctly. I starting using them versus my local Napa as they were giving me incorrect parts.

Pick up a Haynes manual for these vehicles (cover all 1600 and 1800 cc motors) for like $15.00 and you'll have all the information like this you will ever need and more.

You can try your local hard ware store, they have a variety of clips and speed nuts that may work in place of the original style pieces. I was able to do this a lot with my '56 Imperial for which many of the original clips have been long gone.

Why not just remove the AC compressor, lines, condenser and so on, use the original AC and Alt bracket and then get different belts. I believe that's what Tom (TheLoyale) did as his setup works just fine.

Just get any old POS that will run and drive. If it blows up, who cares, that's part of the fun. I've always wanted to go to one of those and definitely would like to race in one some day as well. I understand that if your car looks like it might be worth more than $500 the crowd can vote to have it destroyed. Awesome.

If that is the right tank for your Brat that is pretty cheap. I paid $500 to have my gas tank restored in my '56 Imperial as aftermarket units are not available. It did come with a life time warranty though. If you buy it I would rubber coat, like truck bed liner in a can.

I had some hesitation in my '87 GL-10 and it turned out to be corrosion in the fuel injector wiring. Was only running on 3 of 4 cylinders some times.

I was able to buy new fuel injector connectors on ebay for a whopping $2 each. Thanks for the advice.

That is one sweet looking Brat, hope you find the problem. I know that if my EA82T ever goes in my GL-10 I plan on doing an EJ22 swap.

Do you know a specific brand and part number that will work? I would to purchase new parts.

So the wiring would have to come off a Turbo vehicle? The later EA82 motors in Loyales didn't have multi port injection? Or are they just different?

I have a '87 GL-10 EA82T that has been having engine issues. I finally discovered that the front passenger cylinder isn't firing consistently due to corrosion of the electrical contacts inside the connector for the fuel injector. So my question is do later EA82 engines have MPFI as well? If so, are they the same as the injectors and wiring for my '87 MPFI with Turbo? The injectors are ok, it is the wiring harness on the engine I need to replace. Does any one have one?

I'd buy a new one, most junk yards won't sell used brake parts any way. I wouldn't want a junk yard caliper that's be sitting unused and exposed to the weather.

It's been running pretty good, but now the rear windows and stuck down. I haven't checked the fuses yet, I hope that's it.

Today Tom and I corrected both the cam timing and the ingintion timing and put in a new water pump in the process. Still runs the same way, I think I might not be firing on all cylinders. Going to check the plugs and wire resistances tomorrow to be certain, perhaps one is bad or maybe I accidentally got some anti seize on the electrode. I can't find any vacuum leaks, so if any one has any ideas, let me know. I'll post what I find tomorrow.

The cam timing is definitely off, I'm well aware how to read and set the cam timing in these vehicles. The previous owner may have attempted to compensate the cam timing with ignition timing. It was definitely running better before I had the random engine stalling, the only other possible explanation is that the timing belts jumped when the engine suddenly cut out why at free way speeds.

That's okay, at least you didn't use the response "your old Subaru lacks power, what's so unusual about that?"

And the wheel is most likely bent as well. By the way, the insurance company will never cover your cost to tow you vehicle home. You can try, but you will just waste your time (it's happened to me a couple times now). Just be glad the guy even had insurance, a few years back my wife's car was totaled in a Barnes & Noble parking lot in the middle of the day. The lady had no insurance and the car was older so we only had liability and not full coverage, so guess who ate the cost of getting a replacement vehicle? We did.

That sucks the big hairy one! I owe you some time so let me know if you're going to repair.

I think I found the issue, I beleive the timing is off. The timing covers are off and the engine happened to stop with the cam for the odd cylinders (left when looking at engine from front of the car) at top dead center and the cam for the even cylinders was at bottom dead center. I then looked at the flywheel and noticed that the timing marks were at least 1 inch passed the arrow marker on the bell housing. I also noticed that the distributor was loose, so the previous owner must have had the cam timing off slightly and made up for it as much as possible by adjusting the ignition timing. I will be retiming both the cams and the ignition during the week.

This is all part of an on going saga. Last weekend I finally got my recently purchased wagon road ready by replacing front axles, so I drove it to Milwaukee to meet Mile Fox and some of the other local USMB guys. The car drove great and cruised down the road smoothly at 75 mph with good power. But, on the way home on the freeway the car randomly shut off and wouldn't restart. I have since solved that problem and it's running again (iginition issue) but when I went to take it for a test drive through the neighborhood I noticed that it was completely gutless. It also idles a little rough, but it did before. I've already replaced the plugs and wires (NGK), distributor cap, and the entire coil, bracket, and coil wiring harness (which is what the problem was). I haven't touched the timing from before the car died and the only part I haven't replaced is the rotor as it wasn't in stock at my local Napa (it's been ordered). What could be causing my sudden lack of power?

Definitely not a fuel issue, but what do you mean by dead coil bracket? I did find that there is some kind electronic component attached to the coil bracket that was indeed damaged. It has two male electric connections on it that are perpendicular to each other. While checking the coil resistance and to make sure I had power to the coil I happened to put my hand under this component and noticed that the bottom was ripped open and metal pieces were sticking out. I went to a near by junk yard and took the whole coil, bracket, and wiring harness and brought it home, mounted it up and plugged it in and the car started right up and ran great. I haven't driven it yet, but I think I found the issue (fingers crossed). Any way, what is that piece?

I just checked for power at the coil and I have 12 volts there as well. Any ideas?