jboymechanic

It has probably been too long since the vehicle was "stolen" to report it as such any way. It's probably sitting in some one's yard or garage as people seem to be pretty lazy when it comes to finally junking cars. That's the only reason I have my '56 Chrysler, the engine blew in it in 1965, I took it from the exact spot it was parked 40 years later. Don't give up, it's out there some where.

I have quite the NES collection myself. -2 NES systems -4 score controller adapter -12 controllers -2 zapper guns -1 power pad -2 game genies -122 games Wish I could afford to keep my car and do this as well. If I end up some how being able to afford to keep mine, I'm going to do this some day.

Don't use any amonia based glass cleaner on either material. I do plastic and chemical compatibility studies at work all the time and amonia will stress crack and pock mark both those materials. Just a heads up.

Whoops, misread your title, thought it said GL-10. Since you have a GL and not a GL-10, yours probably just is a clock. Mine has several other optional displays to choose from that show up on the clock, such as outside temp and I can't even remember what else. The tall narrow slot is where the controls would mount.

Try partsgeek.com, they have a very detailed website that has very specific lists of what axles fit which cars. They also carry EMPI axles which I've found to be highly recommended amoung members of this site. I was new to Subarus when I ordered mine and was concerned about getting the right one, but their website was very clear and I ended up with what I needed.

Since you have the title and therefore the VIN, have you tried getting a carfax report? If it was brought in for any repairs anywhere you would know where to start looking.

By the way, I have an '87 GL-10 wagon and my factory radio is narrower that yours as off to the right side of the radio was a trip computer. I see you have the display for it up on your dash, so what did you do with it? Does the display on your dash simpley not work any more? I'd love to put a CD player in my car, but I don't want to ruin the factory trip computer because I get a kick out of it (old school technology).

If you could mod your car & NES for the cartridge to slip into the dash that would be cool as hell, at least to those of us that grew up when these cars were new and so were Nintendos.

Has more getup than my POS EA82T right now.

Then your automatic would really be gutless Tom. Awesome look though!

Yeah, I'm guessing plugged cat or running really lean. It runs great when cold, but once warm it starts missing here and there. I've been having injector problems, but I'm not going to F with either one. Exhaust will be replaced when EJ is in, the engine will be sold and some one else can go through it if they want. I couldn't believe hot bright and hot that turbo was though, lucky I didn't burn it down!

I now officially agree that the EA82T is JUNK! I've owned mine since June and it is nothing but trouble. Drove the car 3 stinkin' miles and the car started running like garbage the last 3/4 mile. Parked it and popped the hood and saw something I couldn't believe, the turbo was cherry red hot! I've noticed that the car runs great when cold, but once it heats up it runs like garbage. Not sure what it is at this point, but I quit with this thing. Luckily, I do have an EJ22 sitting and waiting, so that will be my focus over the winter. If any one has any ideas about why my car is acting this way, let me know for the sake of learning, but otherwise this car is PARKED until I can get the EJ in.

I had this happen on my '92 Loyale but in the rear. The axle was fine, but the spline on the rear break drum was stripped out. New wheel bearing and new brake drum/hub assembly and it was good to go.

Great find, where is this car? Hope you kept the University of Wisconsin sticker in the rear windshield. No wonder the car was so nice, the smart previous owner was a UW alum.

I checked the new fuel pump now that I've driven it a few more times, gas is clean in both ends. The gas coming out of the tank was clean too, so I'm gonna keep running the sea foam through it and hopefully that will be enough. It runs well enough for me to drive it here and there, hoping to have the EJ ready for the spring any way.

Man Tom, you must be rich. I thought you had a nice set of tires on your Loyale? I'd worry about that bad axle boot first.

I've been taking my time and it's paying off. I have my wiring harness down to just the engine connections, the ECU connections, my cruise control, and the two fuse panels which is what my question is about. On page 11 of Numbchux's write up, it states "you won't need to use any of the stock Legacy fuse panels. The engine control system only needs a little power. You can string one wire." Does this mean I can literally cut and remove all of the wiring going to the two fuse panels (one under the dash, the other under the hood)? Or do some of them need to be re-joined since the fuse will no longer be making the connection? Also, what is/where is the "Atmospheric Pressure Sensor"? I was going through pin out of the ECU and found that I had cut this wire, what does it do, do I need it, and where is it? I still have all of the wiring that I've cut down, so if I need it I can pull it out of the pile. Thanks.

Thanks for the input everybody, once the rain clears up here I think I'll pump the gas tank out with a large tube so I can draw out all the large chunks of crap (if there are any), pass it through an extremely fine filter (available at work), and then put the cleaned gas back in the tank and repeat until the gas is relatively clear. At that point I will re-check the fuel filter and replace as needed. Now that I do think of it, it could have just been a bad tank of gas. The night all of my problems began was when I had filled the tank up for the first time I owned it about 50 miles before I broke down the first time.

I've been having nagging reliability issues with my 1987 GL-10 wagon. I know it is the often hated EA82T, but I've been figuring things out (with the help of you here on the USMB) and getting it to run better and better. Well last week I finally got around to replacing the fuel filter and boy did it need it. When I dumped it out, the fuel leaving it was first black and then brown as it finally poured empty:-\. When I shook it, there was something flopping around in there. Any way, I replaced it and the car finally ran like a top. I took it down the road, plenty of power and no more hesitation and random missing one of the cylinders. Then 15 minutes later in my drive, it went right back to running like it had before. I haven't pulled the new filter yet and this car did sit a while (how long I don't know), but has any one here ever had fuel this dirty? Is my only solution to pull the tank and/or fuel pickup and clean them?

I was referring the the test connectors mentioned on page 10 of Numbchux conversion manual. Here's the quote: "[Cirlcled] in blue are the 2 green 'Test Mode' connectors. The black read mode connector and the yellow select monitor will be near this. You'll want to save these for future troubleshooting." What does FSM stand for? If I had detailed wiring diagrams for both cars (donor is a '93 Legacy with front wheel drive automatic, receiver is a '87 GL-10 Wagon with EA82 Turbo with auto converted to 5 speed manual with dual range) I could finish what I've started. I'm very close to being done, I've saved the test connectors mentioned in Numbchux manual, the brown main ignition relay and wiring, fuel pump relay and wiring, and the ECU and all four bright yellow plugs for it, and all the wiring that goes to the various engine sensors and alternator. I just need to clean out the un-needed wiring to the three plugs that connected to the gauge cluster and then clean up the overall harness. If any one could send me detailed wiring diagrams (I just have some very basic ones from my Haynes manuals) that would be awesome. Can be sent to me email jboymechanic@yahoo.com

I found the three plugs that go to the gauges with idiot lights, how do I identify which ones are the ones I need? Any help is much appreciated. Also, the two test connectors should be black and yellow, is the yellow the kind of pale, ugly yellow (it is the only connector of that color)?

Can't see the picture, but love the idea. That's a pretty cool move, my dad and I still work on cars together and I'm 28 and he's 64.

I'm restoring a '56 Chrysler that sat in the dirt in my grandpa's barn for 40 years. Engine was blown when it was parked and had been rusting since(the oil pan was filled with tar like goo that used to be oil). I pulled the engine and filled each cylinder with diesel fuel until in spilled out the spark plug hole or out the exhaust. I checked on it every week or so to see if I could break it free, finally after 8 months it did. I guess I'm saying that the diesel should work for you depending on how stuck it is because my engine was about as bad as it could get.

I have a friend that paints homes and uses the same equipment to paint vehicles, so it can be done. How well it will turn out, that is an entirely different question. I recall most of the cars he did ended up being "20 footers", but not bad for spraying them out in his drive way.

Are any of the wires/plugs that go to the old EJ automatic needed if I'm putting the engine in front of my EA82 manual trans? I'm stripping down my own wiring harness, and I want to be certain I don't cut anything I need. Also, does any one know which wires (colors and connectors) are for the needed gauges/warning lights (tach, CEL, oil pressure, temp, alt)?