jboymechanic

Not sure, but I'll get to plugs and wires eventually. Hoping the rest of the parts come tonight so I can wrap up the rear brake job.

Yeah, what mods have you done? Looks like you may have a Nissan 4x4 setup? EJ power as well to turn those big meats?

Replaced the CPS today, it was about $25 from RockAuto. Let the car get hot and shut it off, restarted several times right away. I already ordered the Knock sensor, wasn't to expensive ($45 again from RockAuto) so I'll just keep that and the CTS handy in the car with some basic hand tools just in case. Oh, and no more CEL showing up any more either.

Even a big guy like me (6'5" and 235 pounds) can sleep comfortably in the back of a Subaru, I'm with you 100% Ben!

Okay, I did a little more searching in my FSM on disc and found the following: "When replacing a rear differenital assembly, select the correct one according to the following table" T1 = 3.900 (manual transmission) T2 = 4.111 (automatic transimission) Tom, I recall that you said your diff has a "T3" sticker, there is no mention of that in the FSM that I have for 1995 Subarus.

According to my Factory Service Manual, all 1995 automatics had a gear ratio of 4.11. My car (1995 Legacy with auto) runs at about 2,500 RPM at 65 which is accurate since the FSM states that the final gear ratio is 0.694 and given my tire size is 185/70 R14 that equates to exactly 2577 RPM at 65 mph.

Yeah, I was upset about wasting my time and gas in the truck pulling the trailer, but at the end of the day felt that I made a good decision. Not mad about it any more, just have more time now to get my '95 tip top.

I now have an extra CTS, but I will wait until I replace the CPS and Knock Sensor and see if the issue persists. If so, I will replace the CTS as well, but I like to know the exact cause of a problem before I just replace everything.

Rear Outback struts (Silver POR-15 coated and painted over black) Rear brake rotors Rear brake pads Rear brake calipers Scraped off previous owner's crappy bumber stickers Installed rear cargo net Just ordered new parking brake shoes and hardware, crank position sensor and knock sensor. Going to finish the job once parts arrive and put the front Outback struts in then as well.

Pulled the CEL codes, CPS and Knock Sensor both manfunctioning. Up on blocks now anyways, doing new rear brakes and parking brake shoes and hardward and Outback struts.

Well this turned out to be a huge waste of time and gas. Got up there and the car is a mess, I asked the seller to list all of the issues for me and he omitted a ton of stuff. Broken winshield, flat tire, missing shift knob, missing wheel well splash gaurds, rear hatch didn't work, more rust that mentioned, wiring and hoses cut and missing every where. Good parts car at best, $300 tops. He's hoping to get $750 out of if, not going to happen.

1995 Legacy with 2.2 won't start when hot/up to normal running temp. Always starts right up when cold, runs great, but then once it's up to temp, it will turn over and over but not fire up. Let it sit for an hour to cool back down, starts right up. I have good fuel pressure as I just checked when replacing the fuel filter, fuel pump comes on every time I turn the key. I'm guessing this is some sort of sensor malfunction?

Welding galvanized metal makes poisonous gas, that explains a lot.

Well, I heard back from the seller, going up there on Sunday with a trailer if the car is what he says it is and all the paper work checks out. Any last minute advise on what to be aware of?

Towing is not a problem, I have access to a good trailer and I have a '98 Ram Quad Cab 4x4. The car has run since doing the head gasket and cam seals job. Then it stopped running at random. I was thinking like a cam or crank sensor maybe. I haven't seen the car yet, but he said it is rust free and very clean.

I made an offer for $850 for the car below, it's an hour away from me (offer assumes it's as clean as he says it is). The 5 speed is a big plus for me. http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/2342838881.html It is a 2.5 quad cam motor and it won't run. Talked to the guy and he said it has spark and it's getting gas. Any ideas on what the issue could be before I commit, sounds like he may accept my offer?

I appreciate the offer, just a little to much yet for me.

Some of these kids (Tom) are probably too young to appreciate your "Friday" jokes, but I love it.

Too late to get in on a group buy? How much for a 3" EJ Legacy lift?

New Subaru thermostat New radiator New outer tie rod ends New steering rack boots New wiper blades

Been driving it around quite a bit tonight, it's definitely good to go.

Head gaskets are okay, put in the Subaru thermostat and drove it around for like 20 minutes at highway speeds, temp gauge stayed right where it should. I have now learned the hard way to use the Subaru thermostat, sorry to any one I doubted (especially you, davebugs). I couldn't believe how different the Napa thermostat was from the genuine. Any way, good to finally be able to drive this beotch! Thanks for the help everybody!

Tom, come on over on Saturday. We'll put the genuine thermostat in and save the NAPA as a spare. Then we'll see if we can get this car going properly.

Radiator is new, thermostat was bought at Napa. I just got a genuine Subaru one to try this weekend. Head gaskets were Felpro (had the Fuji Heavy Industries logo on them). Head did not appear to be warped or cracked.

Background info: 1995 Legacy Wagon with 228,000 miles, automatic car (with EGR) and a 2.2 with dual port heads. Bought for $250, had blown head gasket (pass side, got hot enough to warp/partially melt the back timing cover) after it over heated. Pulled the motor, cleaned it, and re-sealed it (new head, valve cover, intake and exhaust gaskets), new water pump, thermostat, radiator and hoses, new timing kit. Flushed motor with water, new 50/50 coolant, bled all the air out of the system. Got the engine back in the car and everything hooked up and it runs great with good power. I did not mill the heads as this was a cheap car and I was trying to keep it that way. Issue: If I let the car idle, the temp gauge will stay right at just below half way up. If I drive the car down the highway (60 mph at about 2,500 RPM) the temp gauge starts climbing up. Pull over and let it idle, temp gauge comes back down to where it should be. Start driving again, temp gauge goes back up. I haven't let it peg the temp gauge as I don't want to over heat, but it has gone up to about 3/4 or 4/5 of the way to the top before I stop to let it idle. I do know that the secondary fan is not kicking in, but I would think that when the car is moving there should be plenty of flow through the radiator to cool it, normally when the fan is the problem it will over heat when idling. Is the head gasket f-ed again, possibly due to a warped head? Or is the secondary fan the issue (which I highly doubt)?