jboymechanic

That is one sweet looking Brat, hope you find the problem. I know that if my EA82T ever goes in my GL-10 I plan on doing an EJ22 swap.

Do you know a specific brand and part number that will work? I would to purchase new parts.

So the wiring would have to come off a Turbo vehicle? The later EA82 motors in Loyales didn't have multi port injection? Or are they just different?

I have a '87 GL-10 EA82T that has been having engine issues. I finally discovered that the front passenger cylinder isn't firing consistently due to corrosion of the electrical contacts inside the connector for the fuel injector. So my question is do later EA82 engines have MPFI as well? If so, are they the same as the injectors and wiring for my '87 MPFI with Turbo? The injectors are ok, it is the wiring harness on the engine I need to replace. Does any one have one?

I'd buy a new one, most junk yards won't sell used brake parts any way. I wouldn't want a junk yard caliper that's be sitting unused and exposed to the weather.

It's been running pretty good, but now the rear windows and stuck down. I haven't checked the fuses yet, I hope that's it.

Today Tom and I corrected both the cam timing and the ingintion timing and put in a new water pump in the process. Still runs the same way, I think I might not be firing on all cylinders. Going to check the plugs and wire resistances tomorrow to be certain, perhaps one is bad or maybe I accidentally got some anti seize on the electrode. I can't find any vacuum leaks, so if any one has any ideas, let me know. I'll post what I find tomorrow.

The cam timing is definitely off, I'm well aware how to read and set the cam timing in these vehicles. The previous owner may have attempted to compensate the cam timing with ignition timing. It was definitely running better before I had the random engine stalling, the only other possible explanation is that the timing belts jumped when the engine suddenly cut out why at free way speeds.

That's okay, at least you didn't use the response "your old Subaru lacks power, what's so unusual about that?"

And the wheel is most likely bent as well. By the way, the insurance company will never cover your cost to tow you vehicle home. You can try, but you will just waste your time (it's happened to me a couple times now). Just be glad the guy even had insurance, a few years back my wife's car was totaled in a Barnes & Noble parking lot in the middle of the day. The lady had no insurance and the car was older so we only had liability and not full coverage, so guess who ate the cost of getting a replacement vehicle? We did.

That sucks the big hairy one! I owe you some time so let me know if you're going to repair.

I think I found the issue, I beleive the timing is off. The timing covers are off and the engine happened to stop with the cam for the odd cylinders (left when looking at engine from front of the car) at top dead center and the cam for the even cylinders was at bottom dead center. I then looked at the flywheel and noticed that the timing marks were at least 1 inch passed the arrow marker on the bell housing. I also noticed that the distributor was loose, so the previous owner must have had the cam timing off slightly and made up for it as much as possible by adjusting the ignition timing. I will be retiming both the cams and the ignition during the week.

This is all part of an on going saga. Last weekend I finally got my recently purchased wagon road ready by replacing front axles, so I drove it to Milwaukee to meet Mile Fox and some of the other local USMB guys. The car drove great and cruised down the road smoothly at 75 mph with good power. But, on the way home on the freeway the car randomly shut off and wouldn't restart. I have since solved that problem and it's running again (iginition issue) but when I went to take it for a test drive through the neighborhood I noticed that it was completely gutless. It also idles a little rough, but it did before. I've already replaced the plugs and wires (NGK), distributor cap, and the entire coil, bracket, and coil wiring harness (which is what the problem was). I haven't touched the timing from before the car died and the only part I haven't replaced is the rotor as it wasn't in stock at my local Napa (it's been ordered). What could be causing my sudden lack of power?

Definitely not a fuel issue, but what do you mean by dead coil bracket? I did find that there is some kind electronic component attached to the coil bracket that was indeed damaged. It has two male electric connections on it that are perpendicular to each other. While checking the coil resistance and to make sure I had power to the coil I happened to put my hand under this component and noticed that the bottom was ripped open and metal pieces were sticking out. I went to a near by junk yard and took the whole coil, bracket, and wiring harness and brought it home, mounted it up and plugged it in and the car started right up and ran great. I haven't driven it yet, but I think I found the issue (fingers crossed). Any way, what is that piece?

I just checked for power at the coil and I have 12 volts there as well. Any ideas?

I'm desprate for help. I recently bought a really clean '87 GL-10 wagon out of NC. It was running and driving pretty good, but I've been putting a lot of work into it to get into good condition for daily use. I had to replace both front axles before I could drive it anywhere and I did so last weekend. I drove from Waterford to Milwaukee (about 35 miles) and got there no problem, but it stalled out on me later that day on my way home. It was like I shut the ignition off. I tried checking for obvious problems like the coil wire coming off and things like that, but found nothing and I ended up calling a tow truck. The next morning, the car started right up and ran great. Since then I haven't driven it any where as I don't want to get stranded and it still acts the same way. Some times it starts, some times it won't. When it does start I will just let it idle and it will randomly die and not restart. I've already replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap, coil and even the CPS inside the distributor. Then only piece I haven't replaced in the iginition is the rotor and that's be ordered. The coil is good, I tested it with a multimeter, and it's definitley an igintion issue as I can smell the gas as I crank it over when it doesn't start. After all the parts being replaced it still acts the same way. One last detail, the car was swapped from auto to 5 speed manual with dual range (done by previous owner). What the hell is going on here?

Tom also helped me with: two new front axles ball joints spark plugs wires distributor cap rotor PCV valve 2 inch SJR lift kit Upper Radiator hose

Type of Wrenching: Maintenance & Shade Tree What: Mostly old Mopars, recently Subarus, and whatever all of my family and friends drive and bring to me for repairs How long doing it: 20 years (first solo job was replacing my grandpa's radiator in his '78 Cutlas when I was 11 years old) Other skills: Degree in Mechnical Engineering, I've done carpentry, plumbing, tile work, electrical work, and frame off restoration (still in progress but nearing completion) of a '56 Chrysler Imperial Coupe making some of my own parts in the process.

Does your electric fan come on when your temp gauge is up that high? I'd check into that first. My car acted the same way and it turned out to be a sticky/slow thermostat.

I did find the correct manual transmission cross members from another USMB member, should be at my house this week! I'm planning on installing the lift and all the other parts in one shot, and one day should do it.

I now have everything I need to make the car road ready. New axles, steering rack, ball joints, and tie rod ends. I also have good used inner fenders, interior door panels, WWF tank w/ pump on their way along with a 2" lift from SJR. Now that the car has been driven a few times, the temp is right where it should be (about 1/3 up the gauge). I'm out of town this weekned and planning a trip to Subaru Heaven on Saturday August 14th. Any body else in? I can haul parts/people in my dad's '98 Ram quad cab. I'm still looking for a set of four hubs and maybe some other small parts. Any one want to have a ball installing all this stuff on my car with me?

partsgeek.com had them for about $217 but I get $75 back if I return my old one.

Turns out I won't be able to make it out there this weekend, so now I'm planning on Saturday, August 14th. If any one wants to meet me at my house, I plan on leaving by 8:30 or 9:00 AM at the latest, want to get out there before it gets too hot. I plan on taking Highway 20 west (I can show off that other junk yard west of East Troy that has some old Subarus) to Highway 12 near Whitewater. It's an easy and pleasant drive that I've made many times between Waterford and Madison when I was in school there. BTW, I ordered all the parts I needed through partsgeek.com.

Just ordered new axles, ball joints, tie rod ends and steering rack, car will be as good as new soon.

Not at all Tom, I know some people are weird about posting their license plate number, but there's nothing any body can do with them. Hoping to make the trip to Cambridge this Saturday to go to "Subaru Heaven" for more parts, want to find some better door panels.