jboymechanic

I've been taking my time and it's paying off. I have my wiring harness down to just the engine connections, the ECU connections, my cruise control, and the two fuse panels which is what my question is about. On page 11 of Numbchux's write up, it states "you won't need to use any of the stock Legacy fuse panels. The engine control system only needs a little power. You can string one wire." Does this mean I can literally cut and remove all of the wiring going to the two fuse panels (one under the dash, the other under the hood)? Or do some of them need to be re-joined since the fuse will no longer be making the connection? Also, what is/where is the "Atmospheric Pressure Sensor"? I was going through pin out of the ECU and found that I had cut this wire, what does it do, do I need it, and where is it? I still have all of the wiring that I've cut down, so if I need it I can pull it out of the pile. Thanks.

Thanks for the input everybody, once the rain clears up here I think I'll pump the gas tank out with a large tube so I can draw out all the large chunks of crap (if there are any), pass it through an extremely fine filter (available at work), and then put the cleaned gas back in the tank and repeat until the gas is relatively clear. At that point I will re-check the fuel filter and replace as needed. Now that I do think of it, it could have just been a bad tank of gas. The night all of my problems began was when I had filled the tank up for the first time I owned it about 50 miles before I broke down the first time.

I've been having nagging reliability issues with my 1987 GL-10 wagon. I know it is the often hated EA82T, but I've been figuring things out (with the help of you here on the USMB) and getting it to run better and better. Well last week I finally got around to replacing the fuel filter and boy did it need it. When I dumped it out, the fuel leaving it was first black and then brown as it finally poured empty:-\. When I shook it, there was something flopping around in there. Any way, I replaced it and the car finally ran like a top. I took it down the road, plenty of power and no more hesitation and random missing one of the cylinders. Then 15 minutes later in my drive, it went right back to running like it had before. I haven't pulled the new filter yet and this car did sit a while (how long I don't know), but has any one here ever had fuel this dirty? Is my only solution to pull the tank and/or fuel pickup and clean them?

I was referring the the test connectors mentioned on page 10 of Numbchux conversion manual. Here's the quote: "[Cirlcled] in blue are the 2 green 'Test Mode' connectors. The black read mode connector and the yellow select monitor will be near this. You'll want to save these for future troubleshooting." What does FSM stand for? If I had detailed wiring diagrams for both cars (donor is a '93 Legacy with front wheel drive automatic, receiver is a '87 GL-10 Wagon with EA82 Turbo with auto converted to 5 speed manual with dual range) I could finish what I've started. I'm very close to being done, I've saved the test connectors mentioned in Numbchux manual, the brown main ignition relay and wiring, fuel pump relay and wiring, and the ECU and all four bright yellow plugs for it, and all the wiring that goes to the various engine sensors and alternator. I just need to clean out the un-needed wiring to the three plugs that connected to the gauge cluster and then clean up the overall harness. If any one could send me detailed wiring diagrams (I just have some very basic ones from my Haynes manuals) that would be awesome. Can be sent to me email jboymechanic@yahoo.com

I found the three plugs that go to the gauges with idiot lights, how do I identify which ones are the ones I need? Any help is much appreciated. Also, the two test connectors should be black and yellow, is the yellow the kind of pale, ugly yellow (it is the only connector of that color)?

Can't see the picture, but love the idea. That's a pretty cool move, my dad and I still work on cars together and I'm 28 and he's 64.

I'm restoring a '56 Chrysler that sat in the dirt in my grandpa's barn for 40 years. Engine was blown when it was parked and had been rusting since(the oil pan was filled with tar like goo that used to be oil). I pulled the engine and filled each cylinder with diesel fuel until in spilled out the spark plug hole or out the exhaust. I checked on it every week or so to see if I could break it free, finally after 8 months it did. I guess I'm saying that the diesel should work for you depending on how stuck it is because my engine was about as bad as it could get.

I have a friend that paints homes and uses the same equipment to paint vehicles, so it can be done. How well it will turn out, that is an entirely different question. I recall most of the cars he did ended up being "20 footers", but not bad for spraying them out in his drive way.

Are any of the wires/plugs that go to the old EJ automatic needed if I'm putting the engine in front of my EA82 manual trans? I'm stripping down my own wiring harness, and I want to be certain I don't cut anything I need. Also, does any one know which wires (colors and connectors) are for the needed gauges/warning lights (tach, CEL, oil pressure, temp, alt)?

I would replace all the gaskets that will be removed in the process of removing the heads, such as valve cover gaskets. I'm going to check the connecting rod and main bearings on mine as long as I have easy access.

Tom, I'm not surprised this happened to you, but it still really sucks. Just be glad that you have the ability to fix the car yourself for minimal cost. If it happened to some one with no mechanical ability, they would be truly screwed.

I'm with GD. Normally I'd say "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" but is sounds like this one is kind of broke. Besides, if the job is done by the book, it should be back to it's proper long living form. I plan on going through my 192,000 mile EJ22 that I just bought even though it ran beautifully on the way home and doesn't leak anything. It's out of the car and accessible, it would really suck to drop the motor in only to find a problem later. As my wife says, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure".

I need to do the same thing in my car, and I just pulled a steering knuckle from a Legacy to try on mine (they look to use the same spline as the EA cars but I wasn't absolutely positive). Good to hear that some one else already made that discovery for me. I'm going to wait until I pull the motor for my EJ swap to lower the cross members and install the new steering linkage.

Where is the EJ vacuum pump? I have already saved all of the cruise control components and after starting to read the Haynes service manual it appears that the only difference in the cruise setups is a relay next to the cruise control box.

I saved the switch off the pedal of the donor car tonight, I don't have the switch in the above picture sent by Numbchux. Should I plan on using the EA car dual switch or the EJ single switch? Both actually look like they have the same plug.

I'll look for the cruise switches in my car and in the donor. So, if I get this correct I don't need to take the VSS off the donor? I'd really like to have the cruise control, the wife and I plan on taking this wagon on long distance camping trips.

Would VSS stand for Vehicle Speed Sensor? Where is it on the donor car? The donor was an auto and mine is a manual, will it work? I have removed everything connected to the EJ donor car's cruise control setup that I could trace a wire to (I think), but I can double check with some helpful instruction. I still have the donor car in my drive way, but my wife wants it gone soon so I have to act fast.

Before I start, here's what I have: Body: 1987 GL-10 Wagon (EA82t) Trans: Originally a 3 speed auto, now a 5 speed D/R Engine: 1993 Legacy OBDI EJ22 Other: 2 inch SJR lift I just pulled the motor and entire wiring harness out of the Legacy donor car and I haven't stripped the harness down to only the things I need yet. My '87 wagon originally had cruise, but no longer works and I'm assuming it was lost during the previous owner's conversion from 3 speed auto to 5 speed manual with dual range. I was wondering if it is possible to use the EJ's cruise setup (I saved everything including the cable) and tie it into the cruise control buttons in my '87 dash? Has any one done this? Also, does any one out there have the exact setup that I'm going for? I found some that were close, but maybe they had some extra lift or a GL instead of a GL-10. If any one knows of some one that did the same conversion I'm planning on in the future, can you put me in touch with them?

That was exactly the case with the '93 Legacy I just bought as a EJ22 donor. The owner thought the trans was going, but it was just the axles making all kinds of noises exactly as you describe.

Yup, your axle angle is a bid extreme. These cars are know for going through axles rather quickly so if you add any lift it decreases the axle life even more. You need to lower the cross members which will bring the axle angles back to stock, but you will have to add length to your steering knuckle assembly.

Just make sure you use the correct ATF type!

Change the ATF. All those stories about changing the ATF causing the transmission to then fail are old wives tails. Those situations are perfect examples of too little to late. Porcupine73 is exactly right.

I just bought a complete running and driving '93 Legacy (FWD only) for $400 bucks and drove it home. Pulled the motor and complete wiring harness in one weekend, now I'm working on removing all the un-needed wiring (head lights, horns, stereo, turn signals, air bags, and so on). I would definitely start with a whole car to get an unmolested engine and wiring harness, then you know exactly what you have.

My daily driver is a '95 Honda Civic with 5 speed manual. All I ever have to do is change oil on that thing, super dependable. Should be able to buy one with 200k + miles pretty cheap and it will still run forever. Good driving/handling car too for 24 hours of lemons.

Nice job, should work perfectly and for only a couple bucks, just how it should be.