jboymechanic

You're lucky the bolts actually came out. On both of my Subarus the bolts we already snapped off by somebody else. Had to carefully drill the bolts out and used longer bolts with a nut and lock washer on the end.

Yes, but no luck yet.

The irony here is that on Friday I just sold a spare 4EAT trans I had sitting in my garage. Sure with I had it back...

Got the '95 on a friends hoist to do a Duty C solenoid and clutch pack replacement. Removed the exhaust, heat shield, and drive shaft assembly no problem. Got the tail housing off and got a terrible surprise, transfer clutch drum was sheared off the shaft. Any one know where I can pick up a new/used transfer clutch drum?

I was doing a transfer clutch solenoid replacement job today but found out that the hub is broken off the shaft in the transmission. The car is up on my friend's hoist and I have 1 week to get the shaft/hub and get the car back together. Does any one out there have this shaft they will see and promptly ship? Please help!

Tom, I ordered some extra "cool whites" for you as well when I ordered mine, just in case you change your mind.

Kids...

Big Sting fan, huh?

What's wrong with you?

What's wrong with that?

I want to do this in both of my cars, what was needed to do the job? Where the LEDs anything special? Where did you get them and what was the part number?

Tom came over and we put new cam and crank seals in my Legacy. No more constant dripping, oil burning and smoking off the exhaust!

Yup, that would be him.

Planning on getting it on Sunday. Going to my friend David's cookout that night near Fox, gonna get it then.

Do the head gasket job with the engine in the car, it is an option. I was able to purchase everything I needed to do the job on my car for $250 and that included all the timing belt parts, seals, intake, exhaust, valve cover gaskets, hoses, clamps and everything. I have a hoist, so I did pull the motor and completely degreased it as well, but I know Miles just did a HG job with the engine in.

Yeah, I stayed the hell away from that.

I like it. If you are worried about exhaust under the car (I wouldn't), just put a simple down-turned pipe end on and you'd be fine.

Sounds like a problem I had with my '87 GL-10 I used to have, ran fine one minute and then died and wouldn't restart the next. Seemed to decide at random when to run and when not to. Any way, I eventually found the problem after doing all the checks you are and replacing a lot of parts. Do this quick check, underneath the coil bracket there is a resistor or some other kind of electronic component with the coil wiring running to it. Mine was kind of blown open like it over-heated and burst. You have to remove the coil bracket from the inner fender and turn it over to see this resistor. When I finally saw this I went to get a replacement from the junk yard and my car was finally good to go. It's a quick check any way.

That's the problem with old cars, the more you drive them the more you notice something that needs fixing.

Craigslist.org is the place to look, just check every day. I have found entire running driving cars for $400 and engines for $200, but you have look every day and wait for that deal but they are definitely out there.

So what vehicle will be receiving the EJ22 that I sold you Miles? Just curious.

So what engine is going into the BRAT and where is the Brighton?

Oh, I did not know that. I'm used to the old-timey American cars where the order is rear pass, rear driver, front pass, front driver.

You drive stick once and suddenly you're a pro?

Owning an old Chevy is nice, you can get what ever you want out of an LMC or Eckler's catalog as Chevy was the most popular, best selling car brand for decades. Subarus annual volume in the 1980s was probably about 10% of GM's (if that). But, all the hard work pays off as you will have something truly unique compared to the average collector/restorer.