Mantis_Toboggan

I've been gone for about a year and a half, busy w/ school and all. I know it's short notice, but I'm really eager to hit walker this weekend 8/25 or 8/26. Any of you guys want to come out? I've only been once and don't really know the area. I'm driving a jeep now

Sold the GL and got a jeep

What a coincidence! I just stripped my hub out the day before yesterday. How much?

Keep me posted amigo! I've been recommended 15w-40 but haven't tried it yet.

Internet land is funny like that. Nothing beats trimming and fitting!

Dirk said it! Just mount some extra grounds on each cylinder head so the electrons can pull from the frame to the spark plug ground, instead of through the block to wherever the other grounds are (been a while since I've been under the hood of my roo). Path of least resistance vato! Anyways, that's one of the reasons why dex-cool was introduced. You could always flush your engine completely and then run a dex mixture, always a good idea for aluminum engines.

Baby seals, gotta club them in..

I was going to suggest cracked heads, but you've already found the problem, or a result of the problem at least. Have you checked to see if your elec. fan turns on? My car gurgles every time I drive it. I wonder if I'll ever care enough to put another motor in it.

The problem could be grit in your oil. You might find that your rod/crank bearings are wiped. Could just be age and coincidence.

Why don't you check the FAQ and find out?

So Bill said he'd make you the lift if you came up with the cash? I think I might go for his EA82 4inch if he's already going to be in the process of making yours.

The angle is not in only one dimension. If you make the length of the steering rack one axis, and have another axis to be level with the length of the car, you'll see that it may indeed be shorter because it is pointing, in one axis, towards the firewall.

So I take it things have gotten better?

Hello from Italy!! So you're saying that the thermoswitch is a coiled thermal spring inside a housing that closes the circuit at a certain expansion? This is the point of the light. Which would follow if there is a spring instead of a thermal resistor. I'm actually surprised that an auto manufacturer would use a coiled thermal spring for a temp switch. Even still, you never know what the aftermaket makes. I like that idea, I hadn't considered that. But then again, what about the water pump driven fan? Either way, let's be realistic, take an old EA82 up a mountain in the middle of summer, there's a decent enough chance that it'll overheat during wheeling challenges. Such that I'm gonna want to put that fan on myself, and I don't feel like grabbing a jumper from my wiring box in the middle of the mess. Flipping a switch to an isolated circuit is just right. This is an old car. The previous owner incorrectly wired the stereo, which subsequently was stolen and a lot of the wires were cut when that happened. Any circuit that fails gets a freshly rebuilt one and the important ones have 'just in case' backups. That's just how I am. That being said, I'd like my cooling circuit properly protected from power spikes that may happen. Proper planning prevents piss poor performance. By having properly built, protected circuits with indicators and redundant overrides, I will end up with an quick solution to faulty circuits in critical functions. I'm not trying to say that my way of doing things is the only way to do it, if you want to do it another way, that's fine by me! That being said, if anybody wants to keep their engine from overheating and to have an indicator for their fan, this is the most reliable way to do it. It doesn't cost much, and it'll handle power surges, especially useful if you have winches and lights.

NASA? Haha, not yet! I want the wiring mod to be a switched addition to the factory setup. First, I haven't noticed my fan turn on ever since I bought the damned battlewagon. So I include a 4-way to turn on a light, indicating that the thermoswitch is functioning. Also, I can reference the temperature in which it turns on. I chose the relay instead of running in series because I was concerned about the added resistance, which would change the point in which the thermoswitch activated the fan. Plus I can ground the light inside the dash. I used two 5-way relays because I wanted total circuit isolation, this way doesn't turn on the indicator light when I manually override the fan control. If the thermoswitch is broken or fails, the second 5-way allows a dedicated backup ground. My override control takes it's power supply from a switched 12V source, so the fan doesn't stay on when I turn the car off. Also, the switch is itself lighted when closed. The over-fusing is to protect the factory and indication circuits from voltage spikes that may occur due to my car being a bucket. I intend on using my override circuit when I go wheelin', you never know what happens way up in the mountains! So I fuse protected that one too.

EA82 So with all the buzz about cooling fan circuitry, I've realised that my prior mod was incorrect, seeing as the thermoswitch is actually a ground switch. I had originally thought it was on the "high side", or the "hot side". Now that I can safely say that such is not the case, I'm rebuilding my circuit again. I call it "full on double relay all across the circuit". I realise it's a bit of overkill, but I'm having fun with it. Here it is!

Popping any fuses? You might have the wires hooked up on the wrong sides of the coil.

As a quick and dirty mnemonic, think of electrical components as dams on a river, and the water as electricity. Using a multimeter on both sides of the device measures how high the dam is. If the dam is broken, it will read nothing. At that point, you either have a free-flowing river or a dry river bed. I'll be leaving the country in a few hours, so I'll likely not be able to follow your progress for a few weeks. Good luck on your circuit!

Be sure not to over look these

You gotta make sure it goes into the middle of the manifold. If it goes in one side, you're probably only cleaning out one bank, and increase the risk of hydrolock.

That's what happened to mine, replaced the o-ring, no problems with that! Your hit and miss could be a timing issue. Grab a timing light, warm up the car and make sure the choke is fully open, pull the vacuum line to the disty and plug it, loosen the 2 disty bolts and set timing: 8deg +/- 2deg

+1 pcv Worst case scenario, you have serious blow-by in your rings and it's forcing oil up into the air cleaner. But if that's the case, the motor would run like crap, it'd be obvious.

Festiva, escort 1.9, civic hatch. Those are smart cars to buy for lemons. If you're lucky, you can find a decent bmw 3 series.

I just realised that I forgot to include fuses. 15A on each power wire as close to the power source as possible.

Almost right. It will neither stiffen nor soften the spring. Like you said, the spring rate is the spring rate. One thing though, if you use a torch to cut the springs, they will soften. The heat will relax the lattice in the metal and lower its rate.