stinky

stick it on the back, replace the rear bar with a steal bar and weld a wheel carrier onto that... not only a great place to keep a wheel, but gives you a good strong chunk of metal to hit things with ( generally by accident ). Also sticking it on the roof will create drag and drop your fuel economy! yeah she's a great little wagon but like all of them constantly needs little things done to it ... new front brake discs, balljoints, various squeaky/grindy noises, etc

Sweet82, Your buggy is a rhino buggy eh? I've been thinking about building one, but have no welding experience etc, so it would be an entirely new set of skills for me to learn. How difficult did you find it to build? Would you say I am overly ambitious wanting to do this without any real prior metalworking experience ?

the wheels are 14". The fender flares were given to me from a friend who was pretty sure they were a genuine subaru item. The were moulded to the exact right shape without any metal to hold their shape, that suggests they were at least made aftermarket specifically for the subaru. I woulda put the rear doj in, but there was a fair bit of windy bitument along the way so I didn't wanna brake the weld and end up with only 2wd. I found the 3wd to be as good as a non-locked diff.

Here's some shots of the wagon after it found a deep hole in a creek crossing. The engine never missed a beat. I have a welded diff and the trip kept going from dirt to bitumen so I never plugged in the 4th CV at the rear ( 3WD ) . Found it to be just as capable as a std diff. I'm pretty sure I would have gotten through no problems if I had the 4th CV in. I have the snorkel, a diff and gearbox breather. It has 4" body lift, so the engine is fairly low in the engine bay.

Hey Bobbrumby, The one in my wagon is located just next to the fuse box. I'm pretty sure the brumby's have the loom for it so the relay and switch just need to be plugged in.

I've got NGK Iridiums in 2 of my subarus and they work a treat ( ea81T and ea81 ). Best thing is, don't have to replace them for 100,000 kms.

Does anyone know if the Spider manifold off some of the EA82T engines will fit onto an EA81T engine? If so, has anyone done it before, and does it give worthwhile gains ?

what about a subaru buggy with a fiberglass bottom / sides and the drive shaft switchable between driving the rear wheels and a prop ? Subaru amphibian!

well if you guys are getting these figures I can't wait to see the write ups on exactly what you modded and in what order!

Even at the flywheel that sounds way more powerful that a common subaru nut could pull out of an EA81, sure those aviators get some crazy figures out of them, but that's for an entirely different application and I doubt some of their mods would be suitable ( and certainly not affordable ) for us. My ea81t has 120hp at the wheels, and that's with an intercooler, 10psi boost, and a few other bits and pieces, so I find it hard to believe you'd get 150 out of an na ea81 without sacrificing reliability.

should be able to find it here

I had a wheel come off at 80km/h ( 50 mph ) on a freeway and slid to a stop on the balljoint nut. The nut / bolt were damaged but were still good. I didn't need to replace them ( but I did anyways ) as long as I didn't want to ever undo that nut

A spare front CV and a spare rear CV. They can be crappy ones that are almost dead with duct tape sealing tears in the rubber, as long as they can help you out of trouble. Also gasket goo and exhaust repair tape so that if you hit the exhaust and puncture it, or pull the headers out of the engine you can bodge up a repair to get it home. If you run a welded diff it probably wouldn't hurt to take a spare diff just in case the weld snaps.

there's quite a few of us. we also hang out at http://www.ausubaru.com . I'm in brisbane, I've got a 2" lifted ea81T brumby(brat), a 4" lifted '84 wagon, and a 3" lifted '81 touring wagon. I've been to bowraville, nice little town. I spent St Patricks day at the bowra pub a few years ago, and I've been to the lorrienne lodge a few times ( when Rob ran the medieval fairs there ).

turned out to be the intermittant switch/relay. replaced that and all is good! The wagons are both in excellect condition. very little rust, both run well mechanically, both have reasonable tyres. The gold one has a dual carb manifold ( sitting on a standard engine ) and boy does that give it some low down grunt! the red one will be going in for safety cert to get on the road this week. It will then go to a workmate who is hanging out for his first suby Not sure what I'll do with the gold one, can't really justify registering it and having 3 cars on the road. Am going to try and get a restricted rego for it, which is heaps cheaper and will allow me to drive it on club events.

I recently picked up 2 ea81 wagons for $1500AU (or around $1200k US). One of them had a flat battery and when the jumper leads were pulled off the battery when jumping it, a bit spark jumped and between the terminal and the lead. Immediately the wipers came on, and are on at the same constant speed no matter what setting the switch is at. I have checked the fuse, and the fuseable link, both seem to be behaving properly. I will test the other stuff I can think of today. 1) wires going to wiper motor 2) switch. I'm assuming it would be the switch as if it was working properly there would be no power going to the motor through the wires. Unless of course there is now a short somewhere :/ Anyone had this sort of thing before and can think of something worth checking ?

I bent one so bad on a rear CV ( inner ) once that it only went in half way, I turned it around to bach it back out and the pin actually wound itself around the punch inside the CV. Once that happened I couldn't get either out as the center was too thick. I ended up having to cut as much of the CV cup off as possible without cutting into the splines from the diff and then used an old screwdriver as a cold chisel to chop the pin off and then manager to pull the pin out with pliers then bash the punch out. not fun, took ages and two cutting grinder discs.

Actually we have a bluemountains here in Oz, so he could be from here. Brett is an excellent fellow who makes the lift kits as more of a hobby than a business ( he has a fulltime job in the building industry so subaru's are his weekend occupation ). I think you'll find he has a LOT on his plate at the moment which may be why he hasn't replied to you. If you are in Oz I would suggest checking out http://www.ausubaru.com which is the home of the byb guys.

I would be rechecking with the manufacturer that they will definately make them with the suby stud pattern. As I said when I got mine they were changing them (from 10 spokes to 8 or something along those lines) so the stud pattern wouldn't fit and I had a lot of trouble to get them to actually come good with them. Would be a shame to get all excited and have people order them only to find out they can't get them, or worse get sent the wrong ones! btw, I paid $220 AU dollars each, so that's around what .. $150 US ?

I bought a set of 15" alloy superlites for my Brumby a few months ago and they took ages to get them too me as they said they were changing the wheels slightly and they will no longer fit the subaru 4 stud pattern. I was told I was probably getting the last set of 15"s that would fit out of the factory.

Think of it as a running oil change

They're rare, but you can get dual-carb EA81s here in Australia. I believe they were factory spec for Rally etc. You could probably use the manifold from one of these as a template for what you'll need on the EA82, and you'd probably be able to use the dual carbs from it.

I'm not in the U.S. so I can't enter, but If I was, I'd do the classic "small car filled with clowns thing". I'd squeeze 7 people dressed as clowns into the smallest subaru I can find. Have video of it pulling up somewhere and all 7 clowns climbing out of the car. Voice over or text saying "sevenseater.com, don't be a clown" or something along those lines.

$150 sounds like a bargain to me!! I recently paid $500AU (inc shipping) for a set of rear disks. That's roughly $300US. Obviously the different sides of the world change things, as you guys got heaps more cars with the rear discs than we did, but still, definately sounds good to me. Offer him $120 and see where it goes from there.

The Cat isn't needed at all. as long as the header pipes are joined together by a Y pipe you should be fine. The engine does need backpressure to function properly and can burn out valves if the header pipes are missing. My EA81 has 2 1/4" pipe from the Y join back into a sports muffler. I've seen the same thing on a friends car with a home made cannon on the back. Neither have a Cat.