Snowman

I was rather amazed last year when I went to the dealer and bought a fuel filter for one of my carbed EA82s, and the filter was about the same price as the Fram/Wix/whatever unit. I'd just go to the dealer and get filters because that way you know that they're high quality units. Another option is going with a larger aftermarket filter. VWs run HUGE fuel filters, and they never have problems with clogged filters like our Soobs do. If you can find a bigger aftermarket filter, preferably one that filters down to 10 or 20 microns (40 micron particles are big), I'd go with that route for the one back by the pump.

Is the oil on the top or bottom of the engine. If it's on the top, that rules out the HG, as the oil passage into the head is on the bottom. The cam seal is fairly likely. I would also wonder about the little reinforced O-ring that seals the passage between the head and cam tower, but like the HG, that would leak only on the bottom of the engine.

There is a little black box unit related to the coil. I'm not sure what it does, as I've heard it called several different things, but you DO need it for the ignition system to function. It's a little box maybe 1.5" by 1.5" with four or five wires going to it.

Have you verified that the relay works by giving it power and ground directly? Have you double checked that all the ground wires were done properly? I can't remember how many there are, something like three or four at least.

If anybody wants an ff1 engine manual, I just stumbled upon another one for free so I'd give you my somewhat beat up but still usable one if you pay for shipping.

What was causing the smoking? I'm curious about that.

You'll have to use a tranny from a turbo model with 25 spline stubs so it will match up with the legacy axles. Use the EJ driveshaft...it will probably have to be shortened or lengthened a bit, but I've been told it's stronger than the EA shafts and less prone to joint failure. Also, the mounting for the carrier bearing is slightly different between the two cars...it will bolt up, but it's not perfect.

No, it'll be perfectly fine idling at that speed for a while. And at lower speeds, can you say "cruise control" .

Oh yeah, definitely don't touch ceramic pads even with a ten foot pole if your car didn't come with them from the factory. Many many techs, professors, etc will back me up on this. They do chew up your rotors in no time. I should have said get the best non-ceramic pads you can.

That's pretty darn good for an EA82 oil pump...the things are not cheap. NAPA is way more than 1stsubaruparts.com. I bought an aftermarket substitute one through a machine shop in Canada for close to the price you quoted, and they said they looked everywhere to source one that low. Maybe try thepartsbin.com.

Welcome to the board! I think the heater should be fine, as it should be completely sealed. The most likely trouble it might cause is some internal shorting, in which case it would just blow the fuse. The likelihood of that is incredibly small though.

C'mon, wagons are the only way to go!!! I've never heard of breaking the timing belt that way, but stranger things have happened. I guess if the engine stopped really suddenly it could. Changing a timing belt on that car is not very hard. Depending on your experience it will take anywhere from 2 hours to a day. The EA82 engine in that car was never an interference engine, so it's perfectly okay.

Like has been said many times, you CAN get some serious power out of the EA/ER engines IF you've got lots of money to spend. You know, if everybody on the USMB gave like $5...

Very possible that the o/p and temp senders were not plugged in again. The wires are yellow and I think like 16 gauge or maybe 14 gauge.

The 4wd really does make a substantial difference in fuel economy, especially as the car gets older and there's more parasitic drag in bearings and U-joints.

No low range in US market EJ-powered cars. You lucky Aussie b******s! j/k:-p

Oh man, I HAVE to try the hose trick at school. That would be hilarious!

A couple I found in the image gallery... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/5IMG_0087-med.JPG http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/5100-0012_IMG-med.JPG http://usmb.net/albums/album133/IM_A0046.jpg http://usmb.net/albums/album133/IM_A0052.jpg http://usmb.net/albums/HatchPatrol04/rob4.jpg http://usmb.net/albums/Little-Roo-and-The-HP/Evans_Creek_9_03_078.jpg http://usmb.net/albums/Little-Roo-and-The-HP/texteetering.sized.jpg http://hp.usmb.net/albums/album01/qmanbighole.jpg http://hp.usmb.net/albums/album01/lumpycamrubiconcaddyhill2.sized.jpg http://hp.usmb.net/albums/album01/Qmantilt3.jpg http://hp.usmb.net/albums/album01/Austinpushdirt.jpg That's good for now.

Just go to the local auto parts store and ask for the highest grade of pads and shoes they sell. They last longer and stop more consistently than the cheaper ones. Get a brake hardware kit for the rear with all the little springs and clips...you'll thank yourself later when you assemble the brakes.

The "hold first" button just shifts the tranny into 1st gear, like you can do with the shift lever on most other cars. I haven't a clue about the light. I've been told the wingnut thing is used to retain a flat tire in the back of the car.

There was a TSB released on this issue...I've got it somewhere, but I remember the gist of it... Bridge cracks, as they're called, between the valve seats are perfectly okay as long as they're not huge or extend into the ports. Unless your engine was severely overheated or otherwise abused, you should be fine. If you've got a valve spring compressor, it wouldn't hurt to pop the valves out and have a peek in there. Another good idea is to take a small punch and tap the cracked portion a bit so it doesn't stick out in a sharp point, as that point can become a hot spot and lead to detonation. This is a really common thing with the EA82s, and 9 times out of 10, nothing to worry about.

Maybe it's Model Year?

The RX is full time 4wd with a center differential you can lock and a 1.2:1 low range. A regular EA82 has FWD normally, and either a pushbutton activated 4wd or a lever-activated 4wd. The lever-activated ones also have a 1.8:1 low range. The RX is better for street use and rally type driving but not the best for serious offroading. If you're going to lift the car, get the other one, as it has a lower low range. Lift kits are available from several sources. Do a search for the following terms and you'll come up with more info than you need: PK Davis, BYB, Allied Armament, SJR, Mudrat.

For those of you who need to transport Subarus without driving them, what do you normally use? Trailer? Tow dolley? Flat tow? What kind of rig do you tow with? I've had pretty good luck with a tow dolley and am thinking about buying one, but I'd like to hear your input first. The other idea I had was to get a 1-ton dually flatbed truck with a bed long enough to park a car on. Do you think that would work well? Thanks.

Oh, and definitely get the RX. Much rarer and cooler. It was Subaru's factory rally car back in the 80's, just like the WRX is today.