Snowman

Get some of these, and some steel tube, and you're good to go. They're called "Quick-n-easy" roof racks, and list at $57 for a set of 4.

Have no fear, the accord springs go right into your stock struts with no modification.

Ditto. I think there's most likely a problem with the solenoid or the fuel circuit it controls. If all else fails, get plugs that are one heat range colder and it should go away. I had to do that when I was running a Weber.

You can also convert to electric choke very easily. I think Redline Weber has a conversion kit for a just a few bucks.

Because so few people ever need them.

I assume this is for your head gasket replacement. Head bolts are torqued in three steps: 1: 22 ft lb 2. 43 ft lb 3. 47 ft lb I usually do a fourth step to 50 or 55. That's up to you though. Do you have the sequesnce?

Hey DrKrazy, just curious what the current cost tally is on Project Cheap? That car looks really nice.

If the shaft spins freely with very little play, and if there's not any oil in either housing, it should be fine. I don't know about form a JY, but where I live, a set of aluminum Subaru rims is probably worth $100 in good shape.

DOT 5 is prone to outgassing, leading to spongy pedal, at high elevations. Since our cars are designed for DOT3 fluid, I can see where running DOT4 may help, but I don't think DOT5 is worth the money.

Take off the plastic around the shifter. There is a little switch under there that controls whether you can take the key out or not. Check that switch for continuity in Park.

Forgot to mention that I just punched a hole in the weatherstripping around the passenger side window and ran the wires through there.

Subarus are very easy on guides. I'd measure them, but they're probably fine. You can also check by inserting the valve most of the way and trying to rattle it back and fourth. It should move a little, but not very much.

Get the struts for your car, as the springs are completely interchangeable. For the front, get RX springs. They're the stiffest and tallest available on an EA82 soob. For the rear, get FRONT springs from an 86-89 Honda Accord. They'll provide about 2" of lift and will be significantly stiffer.

In my opinion, a gutter-mounted roof rack is the best way to mount lights. Here's my car with its current roof rack and light combo. Here's what I used to have. It's just the factory rack, which is flimsy and allowed the lights to move around entirely too much. A good thule or yakima rack is more than stout enough though. (Sorry I don't have a closer shot.)

Looks fine to me. At least no obvious damage, and it doesn't look like you were getting any significant blowby either (I assume you haven't cleaned the pistons yet).

Not to insult your intelligence, but you would be amazed at how much oil can sneak through a bad PCV valve, and at $12 or so to get one from the dealer, it would be a good idea to eliminate this incredibly common problem (about 80% of the soobs I deal with have had this problem at some point) as a possible cause. EA engines are very easy on rings and valve seals, the other sources of burning oil, so it's not likely that those are bad. It's often very hard to notice the smoke from a bad PCV valve. There are only two stretches of road that I have ever seen the smoke on, because it comes and goes in a matter of about five seconds.

Did you check and make sure that it wasn't just a loose/broken/slipping belt? Does sound like the alt failed to me though.

Not to my knowledge. One possibility from way out in left field: My car occasionally starves for fuel while stopping or turning below 1/4 tank. This is because my car started out with a carburetor and was converted to fuel injection later on. The F.I. fuel tanks have some baffles inside that keep plenty of fuel available to the pump at all times, but they didn't have those on carbed cars (no need). It may be possible that your car had a tank put on it from a carbed soobie, due to the original one rusting out or being damaged. That is HIGHLY unlikely, but something to consider if the problem doesn't go away.

I would also say to use them in pairs, but primarily so you know for sure that the cams are the same. There have been a couple different camshaft designs in the EA82T over the years, and even if the donor engine is from a car of the same year as yours, the engine might be from a different year or something. Having a different camshaft on each side would NOT result in a happy engine.

On additives: Lucas oil additive and other similar products do make the oil stick to parts better, but they also cause aeration of the oil, especially when it lubricates gears (like in the EA81 and earlier soobs). I saw a video of a rear end operating with Lucas additive and a clear diff cover, and it was quite impressive how foamy the oil got after just a few seconds.

It's probably the PCV valve. It can sporadically suck large quantities of oil into the intake, and you won't even notice if you aren't constantly looking for smoke out the exhaust while driving. It usually happens when going around hard corners. Get a new OEM valve and the consumption should decrease (aftermarket ones simply do not work, BTW).

Fram filters are cheap pieces of junk. Purolator filters are the same as the OEM ones, just with different packaging. The best deal I've found in my area is Subaru OEM filters by the case of 12 for $60 ($5 each). I use Mobil 1 only, except on cars that are already high mileage and/or leak oil, in which case I run the best dino oil I know of, which is Castrol GTX.

I've got a Legacy driveshaft in my EA82 right now. The carrier bearing bolted up with a little fanagling, and the front section had to be shortened an inch (in retrospect, probably about 7/8" would be better). I don't know how the Legacy compares to the Impreza, but I do know it's not a big deal to run the Legacy shaft on the EA82 and I'm assuming it would work the other way around. Something to consider: A guy that has forgotten more about Subarus than I will ever know told me that the EJ shaft is stronger, and since it uses a DOJ for the center joint instead of a U-joint, it is less problematic.

I have more experience with the older Subarus, but I can tell you that on those cars, it's best to go with OEM Subaru belts. Judgeing from the prices you give, I'm guessing you've got a SOHC EJ22, in which case the belt is like $55 from 1stsubaruparts.com or any of the other discount places. If it's an interference engine, you are really rolling the dice with anything less than OEM belts...if it breaks, there goes the motor...is it really worth that risk to save a few dollars?

Yup, that's the one. I can't remember precisely where it it, but I think it's farther back on the intake manifold.